Plain a2 no tank talk

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ManniGfaltig

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I tried something like this but with a horizontal coil. I guess its more difficult to handle and I will give the vertical coil a go next time.
Did you experience that your A2 gets more hot while using the batting? I think its the lack of inner air-flow (air flows just throug the center of the batting now) that heatens up my A2 even more now...

1 - A2 Genisis Carto.jpg
 

MXBNW

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oldblue

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Hammond 1551KBK. Digi-Key or a host of others carry them. I rarely use the mod but it was nice to build and works well.

Where did you get the Box to do that Mod. Looks nice and I have been thinking of building something like it for a while but have not stopped to look for the box.
 

MXBNW

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Para

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Thought you might like BJ. Made this a few months ago for my pockets. OKR-T regulator.

View attachment 71003
View attachment 71004

Nicely done.....very nicely done. My favorite box and I like the recessed connector. What tactile switch do you use; that style is a great one for mods.

I like to use a chunk of delrin to provide add'l support for the connector with that box. It gives a lot of stability and easy to work with.

For the A2, modding the 701 to take a drip tip gives a good alternative

701510.jpg
 

WillyB

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MediocreTrombonist

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Got my A2 last night and rolled up a few coils until I got one that looked nice and neat. The wicks are a little excessively long though.... Reads at ~1.7 ohms, have the coil slightly moved towards the air hole.

Working fine, but the inhale is very harsh. Could this be because of restricted air flow caused by long wicks? The draw is not as airy as when wicks were shorter.

Any tips are welcomed!
 

MediocreTrombonist

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Got it all sorted! The coil has gone from 1.7 to 2.5 and sometimes even 3.1. I think the resistance changes easily when the coil is moved. Not sure though...

Not harsh though, good flavor and never a wicking problem.

Still may get the drip tip adapter, but I like the 701 mouthpiece feel, and I like that it can't pop out without being unscrewed.
 

MediocreTrombonist

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Got some Kanthal A-1 32 awg and some stainless pipe screens in the mail. Made a coil with the Kanthal around some of the Bulli wick, used the pipe screens to replace the 701 cart filler with bonuts.

Changing from the Bulli wire to Kanthal and from cart filler to bonuts has really transformed the A2. Wicking is faster so the voltage can go up, and the flavor is better. Although that may be due to replacing the coil...

Either way, I highly recommend bonuts and Kanthal :)
 

MediocreTrombonist

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Having trouble getting consistent performance out of the SS wick. No shorts, but having trouble getting wicking from the above section. So far I tried a few times using SS wick that sticks up into the center area of the bonut filler that I put in the cart. Couldn't get that going, so I went back to braided wick for now. I just used the last of my braided wick, so any tips on getting SS to work would be appreciated.
 

BJ43

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Having trouble getting consistent performance out of the SS wick. No shorts, but having trouble getting wicking from the above section. So far I tried a few times using SS wick that sticks up into the center area of the bonut filler that I put in the cart. Couldn't get that going, so I went back to braided wick for now. I just used the last of my braided wick, so any tips on getting SS to work would be appreciated.
IMG_1076.jpg


I never had good results with the donuts and the SS wick, it worked pretty good with SS wool and the SS wick, but the best so far is just the standard filler wrapped around the SS wick without the white cartridge.
 

ManniGfaltig

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I think my A2 had the same problem (sometimes a short, sometimes it worked fine, sometimes no connection at all) and I took the bottom part apart. It is quite easy self-repairable, you need a new connector and some hot glue, a solder station and spare wire.

The hot glue is used to isolate and fixate the positive screw in the base, there are better solutions to fix it but I just rebuild it like it was.
I drilled the connector away (a small ring remained), removed all that hot glue that is inside of the base. Then you can remove the two screws where you fix the wire.
Now I was able to push the rest of the connector out of the base with a screwdriver (I think I used a hammer very carefully).

Now fix the wire if damaged, put the screws back in place. Apply hot glue again and resolder the wires to the connector.
Finally you have to press the connector back into the base (add a steel adapter like 510/510 or 510/eGo to avoid damage to the connector).

Good luck and maybe you can take some pictures (I forgot to do it)! :)
 
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