OK, so it basically let's you control where the heat starts, got it.
Welded together with a special welder, right?
Welded together with a special welder, right?
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Yeah i was wondering how to use that to i got a roll on nr-r-nr tried wrapping it around leg but it got red hot
Yeah i was wondering how to use that to i got a roll on nr-r-nr tried wrapping it around leg but it got red hot
Nothing special. It is a cheap (about 20.00) , homemade spark welder that I put together using RadioShack parts:
Here is what's inside:
Or, you can get a Zapper from UK for £44.99 Zapper v2 or TSAF from Greece for €112.27 Supplies :: Welding Machines :: The Tsaf VRD Wire welding machine - Esmokeguru
Makes pretty good joints:
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Nothing special. It is a cheap (about 20.00) , homemade spark welder that I put together using RadioShack parts:
Here is what's inside:
Or, you can get a Zapper from UK for £44.99 Zapper v2 or TSAF from Greece for 112.27 Supplies :: Welding Machines :: The Tsaf VRD Wire welding machine - Esmokeguru
Makes pretty good joints:
Damn nice work, buddy.
Hey, while I have you, do you have the link for your cup holder mod organizer anywhere?
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In the knot shell, yes.
But in reality:
In less resistive conductors like gold, silver, copper, brass, aluminum e.t.c. (in that order) Electrical current is a stream of electrons through your wire (actually around the surface of the wire, but just disregard that for now)
The thicker your wire - more electrons can pass through without bumping into each-other. That means: Less Resistance.
If the wire is too thin, the electrons will be forced to try to get to where they are going "Elbowing each-other", rubbing against each-other creating friction, which equals heat and burn/melt your wire.
In high resistive wires like Nichrome and Kanthal which are engineered to be higher resistance conductors, yet to be able to withstand higher temperatures.
Why? Because the higher the resistance the more electrons trying to squeeze through "elbowing each-other" creating friction which equals HEAT. The Heat is what we want from it but without melting and burning.
That is how the basic heating element works.
In the NR-R-NR scenario, we get the best of both Worlds:
Our heating Kenthal wire is wrapped around our wick in it's entirety. That means that all of our Kenthal is doing the juice vaporizing instead of just heating the air like when it is used to make long leads (legs) to connect to the posts. That job is for NON resistive wires that don't heat up, don't slow down our electrons, instead they just let them through to the heating element. Basically, this method makes your coil work more efficiently. With an added benefit of the fact that non resistive wires make much better electrical connection with the posts of your atomizer.
One more benefit: When preparing your NR-R-NR wire, you measure your resistive wire length based on Ohms per Foot provided and cut two pieces of a same length. That means your coils are going to come out of exactly same resistance, no matter what, and you don't have to count your wraps. Also, knowing what your coil resistance is going to be before you wrap your coil is also useful as well as you will no longer have leftovers of your Kanthal because you will cut exactly as much as you need every time.
I'm not selling anything here, just sharing my own experience. IMO
Good recap, but 2 things.
(Yep I'm OCD)
Aluminum has higher conductivity than brass.
The electrons take a long time to get through the wire if at all. They play dominoes to transfer the energy. Poorer conductors have atoms that hold tighter onto their electrons so they don't like to play dominoes.
(Yep I'm OCD)
Aluminum has higher conductivity than brass.
The electrons take a long time to get through the wire if at all. They play dominoes to transfer the energy. Poorer conductors have atoms that hold tighter onto their electrons so they don't like to play dominoes.
I know. I just tried to simplify this explanation as much as I possibly could.
And yes, you are right. The chemically pure aluminum is more conductive then copper. Unfortunately, it is very soft and cannot be used in real life without adding other components to it to make it more useful. Industrially used aluminum is just a bit less conductive then industrially used copper. But, I could be wrong.
Oops, You mean brass. I thought you meant copper.
I stand corrected.
I don't know what I was thinking. dual 22g on 3/32". Takes forever to heat up, then gets the atty so hot it's frightening.
FAIL
FAIL
That's quads, have you tried it just as duals?I don't know what I was thinking. dual 22g on 3/32". Takes forever to heat up, then gets the atty so hot it's frightening.
FAIL
Edit: what inner diameter? That gives me an idea for a build... Plume Veil?
I follow the logic and get where you're going but after 60 hrs in the truck I need a bit to wrap my head around it... thanks for the in depth break down.
I've been experimenting on having single, duals, and triple coils, especially with my recent triple build on a Cerberus atty at .4ohms with 28g. It heats up slow, the vape is too hot that it makes me cough, and yes the atty gets frackin hot.
Hmm i had dual triple parallels 28g .2-.3ish ohm (posted in this thread a few pages back)
On a modded TOBH the coils would stay warm longer than i like but the atty only got hot if i was chain vaping.
But then again i had alot of airflow
I hear you. 10-4
I'm an OTR truck driver too 48 States.
Here is what my truck looks like when I'm on the road:
I hear you. 10-4
I'm an OTR truck driver too 48 States.
Here is what my truck looks like when I'm on the road:
It would really be a nightmare to hit a bump in the road with all those toys!!
24 semi-loosely twisted with 28, 1/8 ID, 6wrap, 0.20ohm.
Flipped 28.5mm Tobh w/ cut air holes
Sent from the Northwest Corner, CM
Flipped 28.5mm Tobh w/ cut air holes
Sent from the Northwest Corner, CM
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$60.00 or you could get a clone for $12.37 https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009290/1822700-vulcan-style-rebuildable-dripping-atomizer
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