Have you fired that coil without the top cap on to see if any wraps glow while juiced, have you noticed your gap between the wick and last wrap? coughcough
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The first RDA I ever bought was an authentic Mutation X V3 which I ran with some success using parallel builds on a mech. I realized that (for me at least) it was excellent for cloud chasing but produced poor flavor. I recently de-moth-balled it, my reasoning being that perhaps the vertical air holes were directing air not only below and at the coil, but also above it hence the poor flavor production.
I rebuilt it using dual vertical macro coils coils in the hope that it would perform better. Sadly not. Around 55 watts it produces good thick vapor, at 90+ watts it's a fog machine but still very little flavor. The wicking was struggling to keep up, but I was using pure VG which probably didn't help.
It's going back in the box.
26AWG dual coils - 12 wraps at 3mm ID ~ 0.87 ohms
I rebuilt it using dual vertical macro coils coils in the hope that it would perform better. Sadly not. Around 55 watts it produces good thick vapor, at 90+ watts it's a fog machine but still very little flavor. The wicking was struggling to keep up, but I was using pure VG which probably didn't help.
It's going back in the box.
26AWG dual coils - 12 wraps at 3mm ID ~ 0.87 ohms
What I did with my v3 was angle the coils so that they were parallel in line with 2 strips of the AFC holes and close off one set of 3 on each side. It was better than a straight build but still lacking in flavorThe first RDA I ever bought was an authentic Mutation X V3 which I ran with some success using parallel builds on a mech. I realized that (for me at least) it was excellent for cloud chasing but produced poor flavor. I recently de-moth-balled it, my reasoning being that perhaps the vertical air holes were directing air not only below and at the coil, but also above it hence the poor flavor production.
I rebuilt it using dual vertical macro coils coils in the hope that it would perform better. Sadly not. Around 55 watts it produces good thick vapor, at 90+ watts it's a fog machine but still very little flavor. The wicking was struggling to keep up, but I was using pure VG which probably didn't help.
It's going back in the box.
26AWG dual coils - 12 wraps at 3mm ID ~ 0.87 ohms
First successful framed staple coil. 6 ply 0.5mmK, framed with 26N80, Claptoned with 38N80. 3mm ID, 0.13Ω
only trying to help ya!
It wicks just fine. There are 30 strands of 40g wire in there. They do a fine job of pulling in the juice.
Is there a reason for you to be so cryptic and not just say what you mean?
Is there a reason for you to be so cryptic and not just say what you mean?
How the hell can I be cryptic when my question explains what I'm getting at?
Second post down on this page! LoL if you don't understand then I'm done
And we are talking about the first pic on page 369.
Second post down on this page! LoL if you don't understand then I'm done
And we are talking about the first pic on page 369.
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As requested a close up shot of the stovetop rebuild in the Subtank Mini.
Pre fire
Post fire
Also I did a proper write up on the build.
Stovetop coils in the Subtank Mini
Pre fire
Post fire
Also I did a proper write up on the build.
Stovetop coils in the Subtank Mini
I'm very careful these days Sonic as to what attys i buy, a hell of a lot of attys have the airflow sleeve inside the chimney which result in having the coils even further from the airholes or slots, a couple of mm makes a huge dif on the flavour, i learnt this from my rm2 reomizer days, it was such a small atty that you'd think putting the coil anywhere would work great, well it did but when the coil was right in front of the airflow with enough room to slide a sheet of paper between the two it was amazing plus the coil was bein kept even cooler, i use the phenotype-l with the airflow opened all the way and get great flavour with the coils really close, the trick is to not turn the airflow while on the atty orelse my coils get smashed by the airflow sleeve
Some attys such as the dogex, mute-x etc are a little harder to do this trick with as the opening on the airflow isnt as wide and you just end up squashing your coils into the deck.
Some attys such as the dogex, mute-x etc are a little harder to do this trick with as the opening on the airflow isnt as wide and you just end up squashing your coils into the deck.
Edit: the reason it can be done on the phen-l is that the airflow sleeve is square and not curved as per the other mentioned attys.
while im at it, although in general smaller coil id's give better flavour ive noticed that fat coils with fat wick filling the atty reduces the atty's air capacity and increases flavour, so long as i keep a channel underneath the coils.
im finished. off to play call of duty or star wars and leave you all alone
while im at it, although in general smaller coil id's give better flavour ive noticed that fat coils with fat wick filling the atty reduces the atty's air capacity and increases flavour, so long as i keep a channel underneath the coils.
im finished. off to play call of duty or star wars and leave you all alone
A little slow on the ramp up, but not a bad vape at all. Fused Clapton wrapped with 0.8 kanthal ribbon.
2x26K/36N, 0.8 kanthal ribbon. 0.22Ω
2x26K/36N, 0.8 kanthal ribbon. 0.22Ω
Back to Petri with Framed Staple Coil
Frame | 2x 26N80
Core | 10x 0.5 KA1
Fuse | 40KA1
Pulsed
And wicked
And capped
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Frame | 2x 26N80
Core | 10x 0.5 KA1
Fuse | 40KA1
Pulsed
And wicked
And capped
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
For the life of me, I just CAN"T seem to do a SFC.
All SFC's that i had done in the past i went through the process of winding two sets of clapton wire onto the main wire then stripped one an cut the middle then used the stripped wire to connect the two etcetc etc But i watched this vid of a very rough way to do it which is far quicker and is what i used to put that last build i posted together, it may help! ..it may not! ...the 32g n80 on 29g n80 was a bit of a challenge and all done on the drill, you can do the last part, joining the two half clapton wires by hand if it helps.
anhow heres that vid i watched -->
It definitely helps - Thanks! I've tried the parallel wrap, the loop, and the spacer wrap. Can't do any of 'em. Never thought about just "free spacing" it. I'll give it a try.
Need to be a little neater than this, though - My OCD will freak out at this:
ive sussed the spacer method, the size of the wires in the pic are just to show where the wires are, i found that pinching the whole area to stop anything moving and letting the clapton push you along the best way for me.
i dont tape the spacer wire to my thumb i just squeeze it to main wire, and as can be seen in pic the spacer wire go's behind the last clapton wrap not in front as i first thought before working it out.
i dont tape the spacer wire to my thumb i just squeeze it to main wire, and as can be seen in pic the spacer wire go's behind the last clapton wrap not in front as i first thought before working it out.
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So this happened:
Then this happened:
Far from perfect, but I'm generally happy with the results. Thanks, @SLIPPY_EEL
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