Post pictures of your working wick and coil setup

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etherealink

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24 semi-loosely twisted with 28, 1/8 ID, 6wrap, 0.20ohm.

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Flipped 28.5mm Tobh w/ cut air holes

Sent from the Northwest Corner, CM
Your top cap is upside down... just sayin lol
 

SLIPPY_EEL

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AMDTrucking

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:D i've been eyeballing that vulcan clone, how does it vape, have you got an atomic? if it's a very similar vape i might have to get a couple, they look about the same size, maybe slighlty bigger than the atomic looking at FT spec's, i wonder what the vapes like with the standard airholes? :)

I'm happy with my standard Airholes and no, I don't have Atomic
 

AMDTrucking

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Here is my final (I think) revision on 19 Ml, 31mm Wolverine (Russian 91% V3.0 Mega Atomizer)
1. New, Fogger like Airflow.
2. Ceramic cup is cut flush with the deck with delrin custom insulators.
3. New custom Center Positive Pin made of Stainless Steel.

0.4 Ohm build of 0.8mm Ribbon NR-R-NR and Japanese Cotton wicks.

KiT3Ulx.jpg
 

etherealink

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Here is my final (I think) revision on 19 Ml, 31mm Wolverine (Russian 91% V3.0 Mega Atomizer)
1. New, Fogger like Airflow.
2. Ceramic cup is cut flush with the deck with delrin custom insulators.
3. New custom Center Positive Pin made of Stainless Steel.

0.4 Ohm build of 0.8mm Ribbon NR-R-NR and Japanese Cotton wicks.

KiT3Ulx.jpg
AMD, as always, artwork. Beautiful.
 

etherealink

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Ok, I'm going to post this here and in the Micro coil thread...

I'm looking for a reliable ohm reader that will last for more than a few weeks and my multimeter's will not give resolution to more than .1 ohms.

As you all know, subohms require a lot more precision than that and that's why I want a good one (even if I have to build it myself).

Any suggestions?
 

etherealink

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If your ohm meter is not working. Try pulling up on that pin inside the base. Sometimes after tightening down the atty on it pushes it down.

got your pm. Looking good. Glad you like it. I'm off to explore 22ga flat wire. Amazing is all I can say.
You sir, just made me a very happy man.

1/100th ohm precision is back!
 

etherealink

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@ The Kiwi,
I've got to get me that lens for my IPhone 5. Those Macro images of yours are awesome!

Here, I decided to rebuild my little Aqua Tank.
Still not a bad vape, only little...

Fupq5MA.jpg
Great build, I have a theory that's related to your build but I have to ask (before I build a tin man coil) do you have a fire pic after its wicked?

Its about surface area and vapor even if it has to travel outside of the coil to reach the vapers...
 

AMDTrucking

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Great build, I have a theory that's related to your build but I have to ask (before I build a tin man coil) do you have a fire pic after its wicked?

Its about surface area and vapor even if it has to travel outside of the coil to reach the vapers...

This is NOT the "Tinman" build. The "Tinman" is when you have several layers of flat ribbon overlapping each-other. In my build, I use a single layer of ribbon NOT overlapping. In fact, I'd like to space out my flat ribbon coils, if I have enough room for it.
And the whole idea is to cover more surface area of the wick with the least amount of battery energy wasted in doing so. For example: 0.1mm X 0.8mm Flat Ribbon Kanthal wire covers about the same surface area of the wick as 24 Gauge or even 22 Gauge round wire. But it only takes a little fraction of the power to make it glow comparing to the amount of power needed to make 24 or 22 Gauge glow. Another word: 0.8mm ribbon covers the area of 22 Gauge but uses energy only like 28 Gauge wire. That Aqua (above) uses 0.6mm Ribbon. It's like using a 30 Gauge round wire. One fully charged VTC5 battery lasts pretty much most of the day and I get the performance of a 26 Gauge wire out of it. Being thinner, it lights up faster, it cools down quicker, yet it covers the same wick area as 26 Gauge wire.
That's the whole theory in this build. Nothing magic. Pure math over the Ohm's Law.
 
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