Post pictures of your working wick and coil setup

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pdib

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Now that is impressive! Is that the stock wick hole or did you have to drill it out?
Are you liking it better than the ss mesh? If so, is it better by a large enough margin to make it worth the effort?

It's drilled out. Oh, you just got an AGA, as I recall. Definitely drill out to an eighth (or drill a new hole, or pull the neg. silica post and drill there ,or drill one of the screw holes, pick a spot/hole that's not to close to the center hole and is the right distance from a screw). I also drilled my cap hole to 3/64". It is definitely a cleaner flavor than ss. Yes I like it better. But, like you suspected, I dropped down to 32g for the Phoenix, then a flattened (diff. train of thought) 30g for this one, so that I could get my wrap without breaking the 3rd attempt. I won't be sold on this stone wick business until I'm below 1Ω and it's delivering enough juice. Will definitely post when I get there.

BTW tips and tricks for forming stone. A fine toothed hacksaw cuts out a section in about 1 minute. Cut the smallest piece you can! (less material to remove) The diamond stone gets the rest of the job done in about 20 min. (If you don't have that, use the hollow section you've exposed in the middle of the stone, perhaps, because sandpaper ain't no good, and it eats a mill file to get through one wick)
 

jasl90

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Silica seems like the ideal wicking material. I'm just concerned about inhaling glass fibers. Then again, every commercially produced atomizer/cartomizer uses it...

I need to grab some and play with it. I'm interested in making trying to make some small, thin wire, coils that will (hopefully) work with at lower wattages.
 

Jerms

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Silica seems like the ideal wicking material. I'm just concerned about inhaling glass fibers. Then again, every commercially produced atomizer/cartomizer uses it...

I need to grab some and play with it. I'm interested in making trying to make some small, thin wire, coils that will (hopefully) work with at lower wattages.

Actually caromizers don't use silica. It contains polyfill and a cloth-like material around the coil. I'm not concerned about inhaling fibers, but an option if you are is to place some kind of screen, like a small piece of fine mesh, into the drip tip.

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Jerms

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Depends on the carto. Horizontal coil cartos like the Kanger 808-D have a small bit of silica that draws the liquid from the batting to the coil.

Good catch, I had forgot about the horizontal coiled ones. I haven't taken one apart yet, but I'm also guessing there's no "sock" involved either.

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jasl90

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Good catch, I had forgot about the horizontal coiled ones. I haven't taken one apart yet, but I'm also guessing there's no "sock" involved either.

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I've taken a bunch of them apart. I use the gutted 808 tubes in my micro-genisis...
They actually have a really nice design. The coil sits all the way at the bottom and is "protected" (for lack of a better term) by the tube that creates the air channel. The coil itself, never makes direct contact with the polly fill. You have to run them VERY dry to get a burnt taste.
 

Jerms

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I've taken a bunch of them apart. I use the gutted 808 tubes in my micro-genisis...
They actually have a really nice design. The coil sits all the way at the bottom and is "protected" (for lack of a better term) by the tube that creates the air channel. The coil itself, never makes direct contact with the polly fill. You have to run them VERY dry to get a burnt taste.

Interesting. I can see why they are less prone to burning and vertical coils burn fairly easily when dry. In my current experiment using the cloth-like "sock" from a years old vertical coil KR808 as wicking material in an RBA, I've found that while it doesn't burn at all when wet, it burns almost instantly when dry if exposed to flame.

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jasl90

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It's drilled out. Oh, you just got an AGA, as I recall. Definitely drill out to an eighth (or drill a new hole, or pull the neg. silica post and drill there ,or drill one of the screw holes, pick a spot/hole that's not to close to the center hole and is the right distance from a screw). I also drilled my cap hole to 3/64". It is definitely a cleaner flavor than ss. Yes I like it better. But, like you suspected, I dropped down to 32g for the Phoenix, then a flattened (diff. train of thought) 30g for this one, so that I could get my wrap without breaking the 3rd attempt. I won't be sold on this stone wick business until I'm below 1Ω and it's delivering enough juice. Will definitely post when I get there.

BTW tips and tricks for forming stone. A fine toothed hacksaw cuts out a section in about 1 minute. Cut the smallest piece you can! (less material to remove) The diamond stone gets the rest of the job done in about 20 min. (If you don't have that, use the hollow section you've exposed in the middle of the stone, perhaps, because sandpaper ain't no good, and it eats a mill file to get through one wick)

It's been a little while since I looked at the "Next Big Thing" thread but seem to recall someone getting good results using a diamond lap wheel on a grinder. If they aren't too expensive I may try that too.

Yes... I am the kind of knuckle head who will spend stupid amounts of money so that I can make something that only costs a few bucks to buy... Thank god I don't know how to program a CNC mill...
 

jasl90

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I'm at 1Ω Captain! One of my AGAs looked like it might accomodate a 9/64" wick hole . . . . so I drilled. Made a 9/64 bubble stone wick, wrapped (with my new multiple annealing technique for fragile wicks) 28g Kanthal. It's keeping up great (NO break-in period). . . . . Heading; .8Ω, aye Cap'n.
We may have created a monster... Guess I need to get my act together and grind out some fish wicks...
 

thecatanddog

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fresh build on an IGO L
IMG_1530.jpg

IMG_1531.jpg


-TCAD
 

Aymoon

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My first ever RBA... ok, that's not really true. I tried once before this one which looked like a complete mess, so I ripped it off and built this... I think it's fairly tidy as a first working coil. It measured at 2.7 Ohm which is almost perfect for me (I prefer high resistance / high voltage). On a Provari with a Zen Atty Pro.

Coil.jpg
 

Jimmyhat

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Here's some pics of a z-atty g that I had laying around. It was stuck on the top tube with a kick inside, today I took about 4 hours, patience, and some PB blaster to get it off. After that I cleaned it a million times to make sure that no PB blaster remained. Now that its fixed and the insulator removed I wrapped it with a 3/4 wrap of twisted 28ga kanthal a-1 @ .8ohms, the wick is an unoxidized wide hollow wick, for me the hollow wicks work better than a solid.
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20130305_175941_zpsc8cd1f0c.jpg
 
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