Rayon Wick - Better Flow, Flavor, Longevity, and Nic Hit!! - Pt.2

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TrollDragon

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Oh Yeah! FeV FTW!
If you don't own one, GET one! Do It NOW! :w00t: :lol: :w00t:

Stock tank
fFZUIJ7l.jpg


Glass tank (Rainbow Loom Colored Rubber Bands can be used instead of o-rings)
jTgT0pDl.jpg


The smaller 19mm FeV VS
rPoRWZjl.jpg

:thumbs:
 

Heartsdelight

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Oh Yeah! FeV FTW!
If you don't own one, GET one! Do It NOW! :w00t: :lol: :w00t:

Stock tank
fFZUIJ7l.jpg


Glass Tank (Rainbow Loom Colored Rubber Bands can be used instead of o-rings)
jTgT0pDl.jpg


The smaller 19mm FeV VS
rPoRWZjl.jpg

:thumbs:
Which version? Do you need to buy mesh as stated above? I saw a bunch of FEV's on Fasttech would you recommend any of those? Is it bottom fill? Would love to get one but it's a bit confusing.
If you have time & don't mind could you link one I should buy? Pretty please :nun: appreciate muchly :)
 

awsum140

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The FEV V3 can be a little confusing but I'll try to explain how it goes together. The base holds the posts for the coil/wicks. The coil actually mounts between the posts and stands above the posts. The wick can be trimmed, short, so it just reaches past the posts.

The tank assembly is actually two pieces that screw together and slide onto the base. The bottom portion of the tank assembly is actually the coil chamber. This makes it quite large, way bigger than traditional tanks like Foggers. The chamber screws into the actual tank. The air tube is in the center of the tank, of course, and is long enough, an gasketed, to get into the coil chamber section. Once un-screwed the opening is the whole diameter of the tank so liquids can just be poured in directly from a bottle.

Liquid moves from the tank section to the coil/wick through two small holes, about 2mm, in the top of the chamber section. This is where the mesh comes in. A small piece of your wick of choice, rayon recommended, gets wrapped with mesh and placed in each hole. On the tanks side, just a little nub of wick will work fine. On the coil/wick side a little bit more is needed to insure that it contacts the actual wick in the coil. Everything always lines up because the tank/chamber assembly slides onto the coil base and is kept in alignment by a small alignment pin. The fit is snug between the tank and the coil base so once it's assembled it is quite secure.

Hope this helps.
 
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Heartsdelight

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The FEV V3 can be a little confusing but I'll try to explain hot it goes together. The base holds the posts for the coil/wicks. The coil actually mounts between the posts and stands above the posts. The wick can be trimmed, short, so it just reaches past the posts.

The tank assembly is actually two pieces that screw together and slide onto the base. The bottom portion of the tank assembly is actually the coil chamber. This makes it quite large, way bigger than traditional tanks like Foggers. The chamber screws into the actual tank. The air tube is in the center of the tank, of course, and is long enough, an gasketed, to get into the coil chamber section. Once un-screwed the opening is the whole diameter of the tank so liquids can just be poured in directly from a bottle.

Liquid moves from the tank section to the coil/wick through two small holes, about 2mm, in the top of the chamber section. This is where the mesh comes in. A small piece of your wick of choice, rayon recommended, gets wrapped with mesh and placed in each hole. On the tanks side, just a little nub of wick will work fine. On the coil/wick side a little bit more is needed to insure that it contacts the actual wick in the coil. Everything always lines up because the tank/chamber assembly slides onto the coil base and is kept in alignment by a small alignment pin. The fit is snug between the tank and the coil base so once it's assembled it is quite secure.

Hope this helps.
Thanks, it is confusing but your explanation helped! I see that "Hotcig" FEV3 version is preferred, on Fasttech they only have the glass tank Hotcig FEV3 do you know where else I might look? Heavens Gifts?
 

JeremyR

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Thanks, it is confusing but your explanation helped! I see that "Hotcig" FEV3 version is preferred, on Fasttech they only have the glass tank Hotcig FEV3 do you know where else I might look? Heavens Gifts?

Heres a review on the new v4 which is looking good.
Flash e-vapor V4

I linked the fev thread which has the latest info near the end. Post there also...

You want one with the pin for the cap not the notch. I didn't get any of mine from fastech. My last came from focal. I recently linked the clone with wireless base in the fev thread.

I would get this one if you want a full kit and wireless base. i dont have it but its on my list.. its the only clone version thats the full kit right now.. focalecig.com - FEV V2 Style 23.2mm Diameter 18650 Rebuildable Atomizer - Silver

This tank is only a few mm longer than the bachelor tank. Its pretty heavy in full stainless mode for sure, no joke, the glass kits take off some weight and some capacity with it.

The v2 will need to be drilled to get bigger than 2mm air. The v3 is 3 mm with the air screw out. V4 may be bigger. 3mm is pretty good for me on this tank at 40-45w typically.

With high vg i just use a 2 - 2½ wrap mesh straw, wide open.
 
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PaulBHC

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Years ago I sold Weber carburetors and parts. I had to read books on theory and tuning. Venturis, jets, air bleeds, emulsion tubes, etc. All of these functions could be put into a vape tank to allow user tuning for air flow, juice flow, thick or thin, high or low watts, etc.
 

TrollDragon

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I tried to rebuild a Carter ThermoQuad once, it didn`t go well, the gas poured through it and out of it very nicely. :shock:

Of course this was AFTER installing the new 4BBL manifold too...

No other carbs around or a full rebuild kit for the Carter, so the 2BBL intake had to go back on since the car was my daily driver. What a poorly planned, total waste of a whole Sunday. :facepalm:
 

cheech226

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Heating the wire prior to winding a coil is called tempering/ I temper my Ti before twisting it or winding a coil, then re-temper after winding the coil to compress it making a close spaced coil. I'd suggest just heating to a dull red rather than "cherry" red to minimize producing oxides on the surface that can end up in you vape.

you're really annealing the wire by heating it and cooling it slow. when you temper you harden the material by quenching or rapidly cooling it. i've been buying my ti wire from temco and it's already annealed, but after pulsing it at low watts it does get less stiff.
 

oplholik

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I tried to rebuild a Carter ThermoQuad once, it didn`t go well, the gas poured through it and out of it very nicely. :shock:

Of course this was AFTER installing the new 4BBL manifold too...

No other carbs around or a full rebuild kit for the Carter, so the 2BBL intake had to go back on since the car was my daily driver. What a poorly planned, total waste of a whole Sunday. :facepalm:

I had a 67 Chevelle SS with the 325hp 396ci, and after awhile I decided I wanted more, so I bought the cam, and mech. lifters for a 375hp 396. Along with that I got a high rise manifold and a big Holly carb. I got the cam and lifters in, bolted the high rise on, and installed the carb. DUH! The hood wouldn't close. :-x I had to take the carb and manifold off, take the manifold back, pay a re stocking fee, and bought a mini high rise. It all ended up working really well. That 396 really got with it.
 

awsum140

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you're really annealing the wire by heating it and cooling it slow. when you temper you harden the material by quenching or rapidly cooling it. i've been buying my ti wire from temco and it's already annealed, but after pulsing it at low watts it does get less stiff.

I said it before and I'll say it again...I'm not a metallurgist, don't play one on TV and didn't stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night :lol:

I do know it works, for me.
 

Mactavish

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I said it before and I'll say it again...I'm not a metallurgist, don't play one on TV and didn't stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night :lol:

I do know it works, for me.

We know. :)
Now you know what annealing is, thank Cheech. I still get them confused, but I had to learn when not long a go, choices for real titanium G1, was slim, and the wire had to be annealed to get the spring out. Temcos TI is good, though I just wrapped some 28 gauge TI for my new Kayfun 5, and it was just a little springy. Being able to skip the annealing slow pulse pre build step is welcome, especially when coiling titanium.
 

TrollDragon

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That's when you cut a hole in the hood, at least that is what I would have done.

Well the SS already has some side vents in the hood though doesn't it (my buddy had the same car), I guess cutting it wouldn't be a good option.
I was going to say Sawzall is the fix for that for sure!

In the style of RoadKill`s Draguar or Rotson. :D
Roadkill-Episode-411.jpg
 

TrollDragon

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Ok guys you lost me lol. Thanks for all the links to the FEV's, now what clone version should I get?
This one here is my choice
$20.73 Flash e-Vape V3 Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 4.5ml / stainless steel + glass / 23mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

I have the same one that awsum140 linked and added the glass section when they became available.
focalecig.com - FEV V3 Glass Tank- Silver by Hotcig

The one Jeremy linked is your best value though, all the options but it has an 8ml tank if that is a problem and might not take the glass add on.

So you get both! :w00t: :drool: :w00t:
focalecig.com - FEV V2 Style 23.2mm Diameter 18650 Rebuildable Atomizer - Silver
AND
$20.73 Flash e-Vape V3 Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 4.5ml / stainless steel + glass / 23mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Then the FeV love be strong! :thumbs:
 
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