Rayon Wick - Better Flow, Flavor, Longevity, and Nic Hit!! - Pt.2

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Canno

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Thanks guys. I rewicked and added some rayon by the holes. It's doing great at the moment. I'll keep an eye on the wick coloration. If there's a further problem I'll come back and really eyeball all this good information. I know that with what you've provided I can get this thing walkin the dog. Good info. Thanks again.
 

Kaezziel

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Okay, well we seem to have survived the torrential downpour over the weekend. Fun part was that I had to drive completely across town on Sunday at 5am... needless to say that was sketchy at best... all is well, though.

Anyway, I'm stuck at work tonight on a late shift. The insulator for the center post in my Hobo was a bit melted... :oops: Seems that my mech builds tend to run a bit hot... so, I found some peek round stock here at work and made a new one. Threw a new build in and wicked it up. Everything is back to perfect and I'm a happy camper! Here's a few build pics to keep you guys/gals happy!

Tails.jpg Tucked.jpg Both Sides.jpg Juiced.jpg Hobo Corsair.jpg

That's 24g NiChrome 80, 2.9mm I.D., 7 wraps spaced. Ohms out at a total of 0.25 ohms and running on a Corsair mechanical mod.

Sorry about the flash spots. I finally picked up a macro lens attachment for my phone camera... next time I'll turn off the flash!
 
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JeremyR

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Letting you guys know that with the info you gave me in the last few posts, I have the ST Mini doing just what I want. If I get any decent longevity out of it, I will be a happy old curmudgeon. Thanks loads guys. :thumbs:

Leave it in as long as possible with my cleaning tips. Hopefully it gets you to the month mark or more.
 

vincom

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stmini rba vi modded lasts me well over 100mls diy juice, maybe closer to 200ml but i cant be specific because it lasts so long i forget when i actually changed the wick, my mental notes fade away as i should write it down, should being the operative word.

but let me be clear, when i do change out the wick it actually looks fine but the coil not so much, so i just dry burn the coil and therefore i need to rewick.

as for scissors - small cuticle scissors are great
 

Canno

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I have an ST mini starter kit on the way so hope it works well for me too.

I'm sure it will. Maybe you'll get it right quicker than I did. Thinking back though, it didn't take as long as it seemed. There is a learning curve, especially if you are new to rayon. But help will be here if you need it. Mine may need improvement but I'm getting there.
 

Exchaner

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Hi everyone, I have a question that has been puzzling me for a while. If the purpose of thinning the tails is to enhance juice flow to the wick, then how does that help restrict the flow of burned liquid back into the tank. After all, if it is easier for juice to go up, it should also be easier for the burned juice to go down. Or am I missing the point somewhere? There must some other principle involved because thinning down the tails has in fact helped cut back the flow into my tank.
 
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Kaezziel

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Yup, sometimes you use what you have available tho ;)

LOL. Don't even get me started. Remember when I just said that I had to make a new insulator for the Hobo? Yeah... well, here's my 'Redneck Lathe' that I used to turn down the OD of the peek round stock... (note that what is chucked up in this pic is not peak, it's another high temp plastic that I'm thinking of making into a drip tip.)
Redneck Lathe.jpg

Hi everyone, I have a question that has been puzzling me for a while. If the purpose of thinning the tails is to enhance juice flow to the wick, then how does that restrict the flow back of burned liquid into the tank. After all, if it is easier for juice to go up, it should also be easier for the burned juice to go down. Or am I missing the point somewhere?

Well, as I understand it, the thin tails enhance wicking up to the core wick. The thicker core (the part inside the coil) is better at holding juice than it is at releasing it... therefore the thin tails bring the juice up, and the thick core holds it until it gets vaporized.
 

JeremyR

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I did offer an explaination in the op, but ill try to expand on it. The free fibers in the tails are free to spread allowing more juice to be held and seems to have more osmotic pressure.. It may also have to do with an imbalance of fibers.

The fiber wants to remain evenly wet. Thinning the tail means there is less in the tail for the body of Wick to worry about keeping evenly wet, with more fiber in the coil area it automatically directs more juice to more fiber. It seems to be related to width of coil in relation to the length of Tails. The longer the tail the more it does need to be thinned.

More fiber attracts more juice less in the Tails will transport more than attract. If all the fibers want to remain an even saturation. More fiber will always be pulling internally to itself rather than spreading its juice across the fiber to have even saturation.. It creates a type of osmotic pressure in the main part of the wick.

When the coil is in contact with the Wick it becomes part of it. The Rayon will release juice to keep the coil as wet also, or its fibers touching the coil will be at risk of burning. It trys to keep the coil even saturated with itself. Thus you need a good contact with the coil so the Wick and coil are one in rayons eyes.

That's my thinning tails theory at least, if it makes any sense. Lol

We do know that it seems to work when its needed.
 
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Kaezziel

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I did offer an explaination in the op. the free fibers in the tails are free to spread allowing more juice to be held and seems to have more osmotic pressure.. It may also have to do with an imbalance of fibers.

The fiber wants to remain evenly wet. Thinning the tail means there is less in the tail for the body of Wick to worry about keeping evenly wet, with more fiber in the coil area it automatically directs more juice to more fiber. It seems to be related to width of coil in relation to the length of Tails. The longer the tail the more it does need to be thinned.

More fiber attracts more juice less in the Tails will transport more than attract. If all the fibers want to remain an even saturation. More fiber will always be pulling internally to itself rather than spreading its juice across the fiber to have even saturation.. It creates a type of osmotic pressure in the main part of the wick.

When the coil is in contact with the Wick it becomes part of it. The Rayon will release juice to keep the coil as wet also, or its fibers touching the coil will be at risk of burning. It trys to keep the coil even saturated with itself. Thus you need a good contact with the coil so the Wick and coil are one in rayons eyes.

That's my thinning tails theory at least, if it makes any sense. Lol

We do know that it seems to work when its needed.

Much better explanation than mine... LOL... though, at this point, we pretty much expect no less. That's why you're the Rayon Godfather, man!
 

awsum140

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LOL. Don't even get me started. Remember when I just said that I had to make a new insulator for the Hobo? Yeah... well, here's my 'Redneck Lathe' that I used to turn down the OD of the peek round stock... (note that what is chucked up in this pic is not peak, it's another high temp plastic that I'm thinking of making into a drip tip.)
View attachment 501736

I've graduated to a drill press, LOL. Much more stable, plus with a cross slide vice, it's a mill, too.
 

Kaezziel

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I've graduated to a drill press, LOL. Much more stable, plus with a cross slide vice, it's a mill, too.

LOL! The cordless is more stable than the antiquated drill press that we have here.... that thing shakes and wobbles like a hula dancer! :lol:
 
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