Rayon Wick - Better Flow, Flavor, Longevity, and Nic Hit!! - Pt.2

[awsum140]

I usually use 26 and 28 gauge wire, depending on the atomizer. My "rule of thumb" is that if I have to hold the "down wind" side of the coil with a thumbnail while pulling the wick through then re-arrange the coil after wicking, I've got the density right. With 24 gauge just seeing the wraps of the coil, all the wraps, move as the wick is pulled through seems to work well.

 

[Herrick]

@Herrick , your coil looks good. As @AlterUrEgo said, wick it tight in the coil.

I see you're using an Evolv dna mod in TC which is great. I have seven of them and have a recommendation for setup in TC.
Don't try to balance the temp and wattage settings for tc, just set the wattage higher than needed and let the mod regulate the power up/down as it sees fit. Don't worry about the mod displaying the "temp protect" message, all that means is that you are reaching your set temp. DNAs have extremely fast processors so you run no risk of your coil temp rising above your temp setting.
For your build I would set the wattage in TC to 50w and leave it there; that's plenty of power to reach whatever temp you choose and will help your coil ramp up to temp quickly.

Here is a useful tool for coil builds. I have entered your coil specs into the link for you.
Coil wrapping

Thanks I've been using that Steam Engine.

I've always had it in my head if temperature protection comes on then I'm using too much power but I guess that's not really a bad thing.

 

[DavidOck]

I fill my OBS tanks with 120ml bottles.

I'll bet you can vape all day with 120 mls, but isn't it a bit heavy?

 

[cigatron]

I'll bet you can vape all day with 120 mls, but isn't it a bit heavy?

There's one in every crowd

 

[Alter]

The fill port is pretty massive, I can't see how you could possibly airlock it.

I fill my OBS tanks with 120ml bottles.

I don't have the OBS tank so I'm just guessing from the pics I saw but you never know. I would have never guessed with the TFV4 about the juice film until I saw the slight sheen of juice on the port and that my tip just went through without breaking the film. Broke the film and never a filling leak after that.
My interest in that atty led me to watch a few vids on it. One guy stuffed the tails down through the holes while another just had them laying just barely into the holes and both were happy but they were using cotton so it could expand enough to block the ports. Using rayon and cutting the tails might lead to not enough wicking to fully block off the juice flow holes(they look mighty big), you may have to add some extra rayon in through the holes(rayon sticks like glue to itself once juiced) to make sure the holes are filled/ blocked if your using a smaller diameter coil build since enough wick to be tight in the build might not be enough to block the juice flow holes, with a large like 3-4mm diameter build could be enough rayon to do both jobs but I'm still just speculating. For my Merlin I did have to put a gob of rayon behind the wick since it has a larger juice well to keep the wick flat against the edge, not move back creating a space and juice would leak past, same thinking for blocking the juice ports in the OBS.

 

[TrollDragon]

I don't have the OBS tank so I'm just guessing from the pics I saw but you never know. I would have never guessed with the TFV4 about the juice film until I saw the slight sheen of juice on the port and that my tip just went through without breaking the film. Broke the film and never a filling leak after that.
My interest in that atty led me to watch a few vids on it. One guy stuffed the tails down through the holes while another just had them laying just barely into the holes and both were happy but they were using cotton so it could expand enough to block the ports. Using rayon and cutting the tails might lead to not enough wicking to fully block off the juice flow holes(they look mighty big), you may have to add some extra rayon in through the holes(rayon sticks like glue to itself once juiced) to make sure the holes are filled/ blocked if your using a smaller diameter coil build since enough wick to be tight in the build might not be enough to block the juice flow holes, with a large like 3-4mm diameter build could be enough rayon to do both jobs but I'm still just speculating. For my Merlin I did have to put a gob of rayon behind the wick since it has a larger juice well to keep the wick flat against the edge, not move back creating a space and juice would leak past, same thinking for blocking the juice ports in the OBS.

The Engine nano provides a mediocre vape at best for me. The Ammit is quite a bit better vape in flavor and vapor production, also it doesn't suffer from finicky coil height or wick placement. Less capacity than the nano but has a no mess top fill cap. The iJoy EXO provides a stellar vape in single coil mode, holds more juice and has a deck that is basically identical to the Ammit's.

I've spent way too much time tinkering with the OBS Engine nano, trying various coil configurations and wick layout to get what I would even call an acceptable vape.

I don't have a regular OBS Engine, but I would expect it to perform much better than the nano. The Crius+ is another top performer from OBS, so I guess they are allowed one "dog" in their stable.

 

[Herrick]

For my Merlin I did have to put a gob of rayon behind the wick since it has a larger juice well to keep the wick flat against the edge, not move back creating a space and juice would leak past, same thinking for blocking the juice ports in the OBS.

Do you block the juice holes in the Merlin when you wick with rayon?

 

[Alter]

Do you block the juice holes in the Merlin when you wick with rayon?

I did as part of my Merlin experience to why it seeped. Before I did figure out that it was pressfit issue causing the merlin to seep I tried all kinds of wicking methods and coil sizes. It did leak on me, having a small diameter coil(2mm) in it I could see that the wick had moved back through the juice hole and created a space, maybe from the pressure of filling it...I'm not sure. I stuffed some rayon in behind and it didn't leak after that but still seeped so I assumed the extra bit of stuffing worked to solve the leak.

 

[Herrick]

Hey guys at I used the wicking method at 5:55 of this video. He primed the coils then pulled the wicks out of the holes and cut them even more and laid them back into the holes. It seems to be a bit better for me. I'm still getting some spitback and weak vapor but not the instant flooding I was getting before.

I'm not sure if this kinda wicking method would even apply to Rayon since it doesn't expand like cotton. What do you think?

Tutorial - OBS Engine RTA Rebuild & Wicking

 

[Alter]

I'm not sure if this kinda wicking method would even apply to Rayon since it doesn't expand like cotton. What do you think?

I watched that video
Answer from a previous post

One guy stuffed the tails down through the holes while another just had them laying just barely into the holes and both were happy but they were using cotton so it could expand enough to block the ports. Using rayon and cutting the tails might lead to not enough wicking to fully block off the juice flow holes(they look mighty big), you may have to add some extra rayon in through the holes(rayon sticks like glue to itself once juiced) to make sure the holes are filled/ blocked if your using a smaller diameter coil build since enough wick to be tight in the build might not be enough to block the juice flow holes, with a large like 3-4mm diameter build could be enough rayon to do both jobs but I'm still just speculating

Spitting might be not enough wicking in the coil and/or too low power and its just boiling the juice, not vaporizing it.

 

[Herrick]

I watched that video
Answer from a previous post


Spitting might be not enough wicking in the coil and/or too low power and its just boiling the juice, not vaporizing it.

I just did a second wick using that method and it seems to be working for me. I'll see how it preforms for the rest of the day and report back.

 

[Herrick]

Ha ha I spoke too soon. Now I'm getting a nasty burnt taste. I'm getting a new Mertlin RTA & some more juice tomorrow. I'm going to see how the rayon does in that tank. I had rayon in my current Merlin RTA but it was a little weird.

I'll conquer rayon with one of these tanks! That nic hit is too good to go back to cotton.

 

[TrollDragon]

I'm late to the party as always...

A quick question @cigatron. I have some Nifethal 70 (24g & 26g) inbound from Kidney Puncher and without searching through the big TC beyond Ni200 thread, can it be dry burned? Also, is the default CSV from Steam Engine good to use with the KP NiFe 70?

 

[JeremyR]

Well I'm late to the party as well, just caught up the last hundred posts I missed. Some real great posts and help. @cigatron and @AlterUrEgo laid down some great in depth vape knowledge.

I don't know where to start, but @Herrick , use more rayon in the coil than you think, needs to be dense in there you have to manipulate the rayon to get it through with more density. I always just adjust the coils with a small flat head after I wick if they get distorted.

A good point was made about dry out and reduction to nominal size of the wick leaving a gap. Hence it needs to be tight enough so it doesn't reduce down smaller than the coil.

With many of the new designs of tanks one doesn't have to focus on thinning the tails as much it will happen naturally many times and the wicks are so short and wick ports so large to begin with coil size is a big factor.

 

[Heartsdelight]

Hey guys at I used the wicking method at 5:55 of this video. He primed the coils then pulled the wicks out of the holes and cut them even more and laid them back into the holes. It seems to be a bit better for me. I'm still getting some spitback and weak vapor but not the instant flooding I was getting before.

I'm not sure if this kinda wicking method would even apply to Rayon since it doesn't expand like cotton. What do you think?

Tutorial - OBS Engine RTA Rebuild & Wicking

Go back to previous posts from peeps replying to you. There are great tips, just read them slowly.

 

[JeremyR]

26 gauge SS316 inner diameter 2mm. Came out to .5 ohms. Nothing weird happened to the ohms when I put the tank on. I tried thinning the tails to 50%. Seems to be vaping all right so far.

That's a small coil for such large juice wells.

You gotta kinda size a coil to the tank or you may not have enough wick to control the flow to prevent flooding. With that you wouldn't thin at all its going to be soaked.

What you want to do when wicking these is put enough wick in the well or juice ports to fill them enough to control the juice but not packed tightly at all. Now if you had a 3 or 4 mm coil you may have excess. The rest that your left with you would trim to fit the chamber.

You want to have the tails trimmed to proper length so they lay perfect and smooth with no bunching like you may do with cotton.

Up the coil size to 2.5mm and you'll probably still need full density to keep it from flooding and thats just fine. A 3 mm coil is more like it for that tank by the looks.

Good luck.

 

[Heartsdelight]

That's a small coil for such large juice wells.

You gotta kinda size a coil to the tank or you may not have enough wick to control the flow to prevent flooding. With that you wouldn't thin at all its going to be soaked.

What you want to do when wicking these is put enough wick in the well or juice ports to fill them enough to control the juice but not packed tightly at all. Now if you had a 3 or 4 mm coil you may have excess. The rest that your left with you would trim to fit the chamber.

You want to have the tails trimmed to proper length so they lay perfect and smooth with no bunching like you may do with cotton.

Up the coil size to 2.5mm and you'll probably still need full density to keep it from flooding and thats just fine. A 3 mm coil is more like it for that tank by the looks.

Good luck.

Thanks Jeremy, I think you answered my upcoming question for the Pharaoh Rta. It's wick well/juice ports are huge. I thought you always have to thin the tails but apparently based on what you're saying you don't have to if the wick wells are large.

 

[JeremyR]

So something weird happened the other day. You know I have been vaping at 40w for quite some time.. Been using ss316 a lot, bigger 3mm+ coils and even temp control the last couple months. Read about the new studies so was trying...

Anyway I was having issues like normal with ss or tc. Being that I don't like it.!.. Said f - it put a 26g kanthal in 2.5mm at . 86 and let me tell you the vape is stupendous. Way better.

Also I've hit some type of combination with this new tank I've got the Taifun gt3, (Ive drilled it out some) this coil hits great at 25w. #?! # I haven't vaped that low in ages. But it vapes just as good or better than the bigger coils and wires I've been using. Just perfect.

Ss always gives me issues as the vape is never stable because the ohms change so much, in wattage or temp control. Its not the same, kanthal is spot on I know what it's going to do.

 

[Herrick]

I don't know where to start, but @Herrick , use more rayon in the coil than you think, needs to be dense in there you have to manipulate the rayon to get it through with more density. I always just adjust the coils with a small flat head after I wick if they get distorted.

A good point was made about dry out and reduction to nominal size of the wick leaving a gap. Hence it needs to be tight enough so it doesn't reduce down smaller than the coil.

With many of the new designs of tanks one doesn't have to focus on thinning the tails as much it will happen naturally many times and the wicks are so short and wick ports so large to begin with coil size is a big factor.

Hi JeremyR. I've been putting rayon through the coil while holding coil in place with my thumbnail until I can barely get the rayon through. The coil would definitely distort if I didn't hold it together. When I've examined the coil after the flooding, I haven't seen any gaps between the rayon and the coil. The only way I can remove the rayon is by dry burning it until it dries out a bit.

Go back to previous posts from peeps replying to you. There are great tips, just read them slowly.

I've been trying the suggestions one by one but so far the only way I've been able to prevent flooding the Engine Nano was by using that method I linked earlier but now I'm getting a burnt taste. Not sure what else to do. I'm gonna focus the rest of my efforts on the Merlin RTA. I've had more success with that tank despite the annoying leaking problem. Either way, I do realize that rayon itself is not the problem. I gotta learn how to wick properly.

That's a small coil for such large juice wells.

You gotta kinda size a coil to the tank or you may not have enough wick to control the flow to prevent flooding. With that you wouldn't thin at all its going to be soaked.

What you want to do when wicking these is put enough wick in the well or juice ports to fill them enough to control the juice but not packed tightly at all. Now if you had a 3 or 4 mm coil you may have excess. The rest that your left with you would trim to fit the chamber.

You want to have the tails trimmed to proper length so they lay perfect and smooth with no bunching like you may do with cotton.

Up the coil size to 2.5mm and you'll probably still need full density to keep it from flooding and thats just fine. A 3 mm coil is more like it for that tank by the looks.

Good luck.

Thanks. I'll try a 3 mm coil next time. Some people in the Engine Nano thread were using those smaller coils because they were getting better flavor but they were probably all using cotton.

The tails have been bunched up like cotton. I'll try to make them smoother. They should just be hanging straight down right?

 

[JeremyR]

Thanks Jeremy, I think you answered my upcoming question for the Pharaoh Rta. It's wick well/juice ports are huge. I thought you always have to thin the tails but apparently based on what you're saying you don't have to if the wick wells are large.

Absolutely

Vaping changes by leaps and bounds every year. The juice flow and air standard has more than doubled since even this part two thread was started, I think.

As always coil size is a main factor.

As an example, think back to one of the first atties I put rayon in, besides the oddy, the evod. This had 1.6 mm juice ports. If you put a 1. 6 mm coil in you could run full wick, no thinning. If you run a 2mm coil you would have to trim some of the wick tails going into the ports back so it would feed juice. Now if you went an put a 1.2mm coil in it.. It would flood like crazy, not enough wick to fill the ports.. If you wanted to use that small a wick you would have to add fluffs to the juice ports..

Most the time you will want to use the right size coil for the size of the juice flow otherwise it wouldn't vape well anyway.

Wattage also plays into it as well. Lower wattage brings less concern for thinning. Higher wattage usually thin more for higher flow. But that's still relevant to many other factors.