It looks big, is it?Anyone out there who likes dual coil RDAs might want to have a look at the Cigpet Eco RDA. With bottom and side afc and a domed top cap it shelved my Goon and Lush Plus for flavor.
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Thanks for giving a visual to what you were explaining a few post back. Will come in handy when my Pharaoh rta gets here.Here's the coil I'm running in it currently. It's vaping very well.
26g kanthal, 2.5mm, . 87ohm
Started with a full wick here since it's generous juice flow and only 2.5mm.
You can see where the wick is discoloring. Maybe better in this pic
This color is showing that that portion of the wick is not needed. Rayon will always show you signs.. So I pulled the brown spots up and trimmed them off. The wick will start running clean and clear now.
Just checked it and it is in fact running clean like it should be
This color is showing that that portion of the wick is not needed. Rayon will always show you signs.. So I pulled the brown spots up and trimmed them off. The wick will start running clean and clear now.
I know what you mean... IMO it's not the SS wire, it's the TC...So something weird happened the other day. You know I have been vaping at 40w for quite some time.. Been using ss316 a lot, bigger 3mm+ coils and even temp control the last couple months. Read about the new studies so was trying...
Anyway I was having issues like normal with ss or tc. Being that I don't like it.!.. Said f - it put a 26g kanthal in 2.5mm at . 86 and let me tell you the vape is stupendous. Way better.
Also I've hit some type of combination with this new tank I've got the Taifun gt3, (Ive drilled it out some) this coil hits great at 25w. #?! # I haven't vaped that low in ages. But it vapes just as good or better than the bigger coils and wires I've been using. Just perfect.
Ss always gives me issues as the vape is never stable because the ohms change so much, in wattage or temp control. Its not the same, kanthal is spot on I know what it's going to do.
It looks big, is it?
I've stuck with kanthal other than very brief time playing with 316. I love my DNA mods, but they sit in Watts mode (very clean signal - DNAs are great constant power providers).Yeah for sure I've been out on tc for ever, just keep trying it since I have these tc mods, lol.. Exactly what I say anemic. I actually get more dry hits on temp control for the very reasons you stated. (personal preference, no offense to those that tc)
Stainless I just don't care for.^ it's stainless too. The tcr is too wide, even in wattage mode it fluctuates too much to be consistent seems to want to wildly overheat with fluctuating ambient Temps and adjusting temp settings to compensate, ect then Temps changes ect. ect.. I guess in voltage mode or on a mech it may be a little more consistent.
I do agree, us - being "classical vapers"[emoji767] just know how to vape kanthal. Spoiled by it maybe..
I thought tc was meh too until I got my Hohm Slice, powers it nicely not anemic.
I use TC on 90% of my daily vape gear.
The chipsets are FSK (G2 & Slice) , DNA200 & 75 (HCigar VT's), GX-180-HT (Minikin 2) and the YiHi SX330-F8 in the iPV8.
Also a few Joyetech/WeeLeaf ones.![]()
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A Dicodes, DNA 250 Boxer and the SX Mini G Class would be my end game stuff but not in my payscale.You have a very nice collection going!
That looks interesting but it's using a "proprietary chipset," which wigs me out a little compared to a DNA75. I don't know much of anything about regulated, but I know DNAs are reputable, so I feel more comfortable with that.Not too sure Sloth...funny though...I was thinking the same idea. Cheap beater squonk reg. mod but I was looking at this one....even cheaper.....anybody either one of these????
Council of Vapor Wraith 80W Squonker Kit | Wraith Box Mod & Wraith Atomizer