Rayon Wick - Better Flow, Flavor, Longevity, and Nic Hit!! - Pt.2

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cigatron

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I thinned them about 50%...maybe a little more. I even tried not thinning them at all. Either way, the Engine Nano floods. I had a little flooding with the Merlin rta but it's been holding up so far. I didn't thin the tails at all.

What generally causes flooding? Too little or to much wick? Or both?

I'll say it again, turn the power up.
 

Heartsdelight

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Sorry. I'm using the computer at work and your picture isn't showing.



I'm afraid of the hot nasty liquid getting into my mouth :(
What wire, i.d., mm, how many wraps, ohms etc.? We'll wait until you get home. Hopefully you can see my pic & post your pic. What watts are you at? You could incrementally increase your wattage so you won't get hot liquid in your mouth.
 

cigatron

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I'm afraid of the hot nasty liquid getting into my mouth :(

There are four basic stages of evaporation that all attys have. The difference between them is power related.

Very under powerered: Vapor is cool, flavor is muted and attys flood because more liquid is pulled into the atty chamber than can be vaporized off.

Slightly under powered: Vapor is screaming hot and/or spitty with heavy throat and nic hit. The liquid is boiling but not high enough in temp to benefit much from evaporative cooling.

Proper power level: Vapor is cool/warm with spot on flavor. Usually no dry hits with proper wicking. This is where you want to be because the liquid is being atomized into the smallest particles possible and evaporative cooling is at its maximum.

Over powered: Very warm/hot vapor with muted flavor often resulting in dry hits or burny flavor.

Thing is, you have to power up past the first two stages to reach perfection and in low powered devices eg 15w or less that can amount to very small changes in power, sometimes as little as .5w.

I vape my Nano at 85-105w with dual fused claptons so it can keep up with some pretty big power. With 24g single strand 3mm 7wrap coils I run it at 55-70w. It's definitely not a tootle puffer tank so changes in power levels to get from the hot spitty stage to the perfect stage could easily be 10+ watts.
 
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Herrick

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What wire, i.d., mm, how many wraps, ohms etc.? We'll wait until you get home. Hopefully you can see my pic & post your pic. What watts are you at? You could incrementally increase your wattage so you won't get hot liquid in your mouth.

I have an SS316 regular coil. I don't remember how many wraps I did. I was shooting for .5 ohms but it came out at .32 ohms and after I put the tank on it went to around .6 ohms. I had the wattage pretty low around 20 watts or so. After that first taste of hot liquid I didn't really mess with it anymore. I thought increasing the wattage would make it worse but I'm gonna try that when I get home then I'll report back with pictures.

There are four basic stages of evaporation that all attys have. The difference between them is power related.

Very under powerered: Vapor is cool, flavor is muted and attys flood because more liquid is pulled into the atty chamber than can be vaporized off.

Slightly under powered: Vapor is screaming hot and/or spitty with heavy throat and nic hit.

Proper power level: Vapor is cool/warm with spot on flavor. Usually no dry hits with proper wicking.

Over powered: Very warm/hot vapor with muted flavor often resulting in dry hits or burny flavor.

Thing is, you have to power up past the first two stages to reach perfection and in low powered devices eg 15w or less that can amount to very small changes in power, sometimes as little as .5w.

I vape my Nano at 85-105w with dual fused claptons so it can keep up with some pretty big power. With 24g single strand 3mm 7wrap coils I run it at 55-70w. It's definitely not a tootle puffer tank.

Thanks Cigatron. I thought increasing the wattage would make it worse but I'll give that a try when I get home.
 

Heartsdelight

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There are four basic stages of evaporation that all attys have. The difference between them is power related.

Very under powerered: Vapor is cool, flavor is muted and attys flood because more liquid is pulled into the atty chamber than can be vaporized off.

Slightly under powered: Vapor is screaming hot and/or spitty with heavy throat and nic hit. The liquid is boiling but not high enough in temp to benefit much from evaporative cooling.

Proper power level: Vapor is cool/warm with spot on flavor. Usually no dry hits with proper wicking. This is where you want to be because the liquid is being atomized into the smallest particles possible and evaporative cooling is at its maximum.

Over powered: Very warm/hot vapor with muted flavor often resulting in dry hits or burny flavor.

Thing is, you have to power up past the first two stages to reach perfection and in low powered devices eg 15w or less that can amount to very small changes in power, sometimes as little as .5w.

I vape my Nano at 85-105w with dual fused claptons so it can keep up with some pretty big power. With 24g single strand 3mm 7wrap coils I run it at 55-70w. It's definitely not a tootle puffer tank so changes in power levels to get from the hot spitty stage to the perfect stage could easily be 10+ watts.
Great explanation & guide :thumbs:
 

Sloth Tonight

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Turned out it jumped to .60 ohms, but 20 watts at.60 ohms is kinda low, I agree.
Yeah even at .6 20 watts sounds low. Would I be correct in assuming that (generally) you would want to push the same wattage a coil would produce on a mech - or more? Definitely capable of pushing more - but, less seems like it would be problematic.
 

Herrick

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Turned out it jumped to .60 ohms, but 20 watts at.60 ohms is kinda low, I agree.

I'm pretty sure everything's tightened down. Should I start from scratch and wrap another coil with some new Rayon?

Edit: The reason I start off with such low wattage is because I always thought a coil with a fresh wick needs to break in before hitting it at higher wattage. I don't know where I got that from.
 
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Heartsdelight

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I'm pretty sure everything's tightened down. Should I start from scratch and wrap another coil with some new Rayon?

Edit: The reason I start off with such low wattage is because I always thought a coil with a fresh wick needs to break in before hitting it at higher wattage. I don't know where I got that from.
You can start fresh, might be easier, make sure your ohms are stable before putting on the tank. Remember tight thru the coil, cut using the base as a guide for wick length. Fluff a little gently then cut at an angle towards the end of the coil. About 50% of the wick seems good. Gently tuck the ends in the wick channels. Drip some juice & fire, a few times to prime coil. If your coil ohms out to .60 ohms start at 29-30 watts & you can go up from there if necessary.
 

Heartsdelight

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I'm pretty sure everything's tightened down. Should I start from scratch and wrap another coil with some new Rayon?

Edit: The reason I start off with such low wattage is because I always thought a coil with a fresh wick needs to break in before hitting it at higher wattage. I don't know where I got that from.
It doesn't have to be that low though.
 
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Heartsdelight

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Yeah even at .6 20 watts sounds low. Would I be correct in assuming that (generally) you would want to push the same wattage a coil would produce on a mech - or more? Definitely capable of pushing more - but, less seems like it would be problematic.
You can but usually for a .60 ohm coil starting at 29-30 watts is ok.
 
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