Rayon Wick - Better Flow, Flavor, Longevity, and Nic Hit!! - Pt.2

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Mad Scientist

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Looks pretty good, but if you don't mind a critique... Just to make it even better..

The one side being dark is showing an issue. It looks to me like that side was touching the chamber wall and absorbing the condensation from the chimney, the other side wasnt and you see its clear..... Or, that side is a little thicker, which can be trimmed or slivers cut off the sides to make it the same size as the other.

If you resolved the issue that side of the wick would clear up and look like the other side in less than a day. Maybe an hour if vaping it hard. It will clear just like the wick clears when you wash it with water. A shot of base can also clear it if your juice is real dark to start with.

Yup, you are spot on. That side is the negative lead of the coil under the wick which tends to keep it pushed towards the chimney (friggin offset 4 post type deck lol). Next build I will try mounting the coils the other way around with the negative side above.
 

JeremyR

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Here is the Taifun GS II with alternative FeV style Rayon wicking.

I feel there was always too much wick that hung down into the juice wells, which is one of the recommended ways to wick it with cotton in the manual. I decided to rotate the coil 90 degrees and build it like an FeV.

Standard Taifun coil mounting.
Og4eZj2l.jpg


FeV style coil mounting.
uhlgOmjl.jpg


Wicked with a nice piece of dm Viskose.
RXnVzall.jpg


Upper chamber and feed cap installed, the Rayon is just a few mm below the holes so I will need a feeder tube and the supplied PTFE ones will work fine for now.
tDO2Rw3l.jpg


rPQH5pTl.jpg


Random Rayon threads all cleaned off, the tank filled and tested for leaking.
ml9Z0m5l.jpg


Since the coil now sits higher than a standard Taifun build, the flavor is a little different. The good thing about the Taifun GS II is the upper chamber has airflow as well if you choose. Closing off the bottom airflow and opening the upper ones directly across from the coil gives an FeV VS type of vape.

I will see how well the PTFE tubes stay in place and might switch it back to small mesh feeders.
:toast:

Looks pretty nice, I do like that its screwed together instead of o-rings. You can always just leave a couple roots going into the wells if needed. Just ten fibers can draw it to the coil. So is it better with bottom air or side air?
 
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JeremyR

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Yup, you are spot on. That side is the negative lead of the coil under the wick which tends to keep it pushed towards the chimney (friggin offset 4 post type deck lol). Next build I will try mounting the coils the other way around with the negative side above.

Know what you mean. It just needed a little hair cut. A trim of 1- 2mm off the end would keep it from laying on the chamber wall. I slide my mini scissors under and cut the tip off leaving enough room.

To really maximize cleanliness of the wick check it after that first tank or so and pay attention to any discoloration.
 

Exchaner

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Does anyone know where I could find some surgical mini-scissors that won't get dull with time? The very tip needs to be ultra-thin - almost like a needle nose. There are some on Amazon and Ebay but reviews were mixed. Something like these would be good if they were durable. I tried sharpening mine, but didn't work.

:
412ZMLV-PfL.jpg
 
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TrollDragon

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Looks pretty nice, I do like that its screwed together instead of o-rings. You can always just leave a couple roots going into the wells if needed. Just ten fibers can draw it to the coil. So is it better with bottom air or side air?
Thanks, it's working great.
The bottom air is better than the side air for me. The bottom gives a more flavor and the coil is still raised a little to high for a direct side air stream. If you opened the bottom full and put the triple slot ring on for side air, there would be excellent airflow but not much flavor. I believe the side air option was put there for when you use the included dripper cap.

I am going to try the coil back in normal position next tankful and run very thinned out Rayon tails up through the feed holes similar to what you did on the FeV with Rayon...
 

JeremyR

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New build in fev v3

Used some scraps to make a new wick. Got some pieces and pulled a bit to get even & disgard any part that didn't fit. Put then together rolled around and stretched a little to get even and help align together.



.8 ohm stainless 430 @ 3mm
Wicked till I felt it squeak and continued to pull a coil width through.




Separated the Tails off to the side for this atty.


Cut main Wick to length to the edge of deck without touching wall.



Trimmed Tails to fit well curve and length.




Soaked it down with what must have been 20-30 drops before it was fully saturated.



Start out vaping the FEV in dripper mode. At 40-45w



Excellent production right off the bat and I vaped on that initial prime for almost an hour! Probably 30 good vapes at least!

The well and Tails are nearly dry



--------
Next day. Notice the look of the density now.

Compared to Brand new



Next day after vaping at 45w, comparable to 90w with a dual coil!!!

notice the shoulders are still above the OD of the coil.

 
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JeremyR

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Great thread. Are there any pics for a single coil kayfun V4 wick?

Welcome to the thread!

I recommend basically making the wick like I did but the Tails going down. How you actually craft the tails is up to your creativity as long as you maintain that the tails are thinned of at least 50% of the material before it bends down. Leave the channel uunblocked on the sides.

Some like to hold the wick down to the base and cut an angle cut towards the top. The amount of full wick you leave at the top is dependant on the power level and saturation you want. I always leave the maximum up top which is no wider than the deck.
 

Kaezziel

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Some rayon thread trivia.

Here is a list of all those that posted in the original thread. In order by number of posts.
See how many posts you made compared to others.

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...avor-saturation-and-nic-hit.561226/whoreplied

The top contributors to the Rayon thread besides me were

@HolmanGT
@tchavei
@awesome1
@cindycated
@Tbev
@PaulBHC
@SlickWilly
@Kaezziel
@jaxgator
@AMDTrucking
@f1vefour
@brianc11111
@TrollDragon
@JimmyDB
@atroph
@cobalt327
@BNEAT
@Aal_
@juggalofisher88
@Dusty_D
@TheKiwi
@etherealink


A lot of you guys are top contributors as well, some just don't post unless it's important. Some members with-out the highest post count have contributed just as much or more related content than those in the top 20

Just now making my way over to (and through) the now 9 pages of the new thread. Loving the new digs here, Jeremy! Great job on the intro posts!

Gotta say that it surprised the crap out of me that I was in the top 10 posters to the old thread. You guys were well on the way with Rayon before I came along... guess that means that I talk too much! :lol: Thanks for that interesting bit of trivia. I didn't even know that you could do a search like that to see how many posts each person had in a thread.

In other news, I finally ordered some 26g TiG1 wire last night. I'll give that a shot for now, then I'll look into the stainless that you guys seem to be switching to. I'm really just wanting to get a decent dual coil TC build in the Invader Mini. It was impossible to do duals with nickel in the build deck of the Silver Play V2... but from just looking at steam engine I should be able to do dual coils with about 8 wraps each on a 2.5mm mandrel and end up somewhere around 0.15 or so with the titanium. Guess I'll find out when the wire gets here. In the meantime, I'm at around 180 mls on nichrome with the rayon in it. That's the longest I've made it to date. I may just have to try to clean the coils up a bit like you suggested. I'll give it a shot as soon as I run this current tank dry.
 

awsum140

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I'm pretty much sold on Ti as well. Lasts a long time, especially with rayon wick. I haven't had any real problems working with it once I learned to anneal it a little which also removes any remnants of machine oils. I've only played with 28 gauge, so far, but will be getting some 26 gauge in the near future. I do need to try 30 gauge in a Fogger 4.1 for my wife who will be getting a DNA200 in the near future. She's a tootle puffer so I need to throttle things back a lot.

When I order the 26 gauge I'll probably order some SS430 just to give that a try.
 

Kaezziel

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I'm pretty much sold on Ti as well. Lasts a long time, especially with rayon wick. I haven't had any real problems working with it once I learned to anneal it a little which also removes any remnants of machine oils. I've only played with 28 gauge, so far, but will be getting some 26 gauge in the near future. I do need to try 30 gauge in a Fogger 4.1 for my wife who will be getting a DNA200 in the near future. She's a tootle puffer so I need to throttle things back a lot.

When I order the 26 gauge I'll probably order some SS430 just to give that a try.

I haven't tried Ti at all, yet, but I did order it in 26g last night. I saw 26g and 24g online and compared the resistances in steam engine before purchase. 24g was just too low in resistance for my purposes. I'll let ya know how the 26g works for me once it comes in.
 

TrollDragon

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I haven't tried Ti at all, yet, but I did order it in 26g last night. I saw 26g and 24g online and compared the resistances in steam engine before purchase. 24g was just too low in resistance for my purposes. I'll let ya know how the 26g works for me once it comes in.
The 26g will work perfect in the SP, it's really nice to build a normal coil again with Ti.

My SP is still on Kanthal as it is my juice burner. I'm running 28g Ni-200 in a KFV4, 28g Ti in a Kayfun mini and 26g Ti in one of my Roses.

I want to put a dual 26g Ti in the Big German, I don't think the IPV D2 has the stuff to run a dual 26g build but we will see and if not it will be dual 28g.

One can not convert all tanks to TC... ;)
 
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