Rayon Wick - Better Flow, Flavor, Longevity, and Nic Hit!! - Pt.2
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Using the thumbnail of the hand holding the tail of the wick as you gently dray it through with the other hand can help as well. I generally build with single 30 as well. Heavier gauges are, of course, harder to deform, but I prefer the faster ramp up/down of 30.
And, as long as you've not crushed it, you can use the wick to gently re-align the coil before trimming.
And, as long as you've not crushed it, you can use the wick to gently re-align the coil before trimming.
That is the best way to wick small gauge spaced coils.
I've wicked soft 30g Ni200 that way without trashing the spacing.
The problem I've been having is when it's tight enough to squeak it deforms my spaced coils, probably not an issue for contact coils but I only use TC. So I've probably not been able to get it as tight as it should be.
Personally Idk yet which is better yet, I do really like rayon, it def. wicks faster and tastes just as clean as kgd once broken in, but I find it to be slightly harsher. Lately I've been using the rayon a bit more, I like it in my squankers bc I can just squonk once, & let it drain and not have to worry about wicks not being fully saturated, although TC helps w/ that as well.
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But if you're getting a break in flavor then technically its too tight. Most of us aim for the tighter side because if there is no breakin at all it will probably come loose in time. I think you could wick it less tight than you are and probably still hear a squeak. And heck even if you dont hear it give it a shot. Depending on your wattage it may not be an issue. At my levels, slightly loose doesn't seem to matter
I only vape under 400F, minus preheat that's like 15 watts.
Then it doesn't need to be as tight as many people use it. Try a little looser, but still use more than cotton since it will shrink a bit
I've used rayon in CE3 clearomizers, 1ml liquid capacity, cig-a-like size. The coils were 32 gauge, spaced, on a 16 gauge needle and it did take a little "finesse" to get the density right the first few times. After that, it got really easy. All I can say is "practice, practice, practice". Power wise, they were running, at most, five or six watts.
My methodology was to pull off what thought it needed from a piece of Graham beauty coil. Then rolled it between clean palms fairly gently. A gentle "massage" or "stroking" after that to make it as uniform as possible. Twist one end tight for a needle, then through the coil and stretch, and maybe twist a bit, to get it through. I had 50 in rotation so I can't really, accurately, judge how long they lasted between rebuilds, but it was a maybe twice a year project to rebuild them all.
My methodology was to pull off what thought it needed from a piece of Graham beauty coil. Then rolled it between clean palms fairly gently. A gentle "massage" or "stroking" after that to make it as uniform as possible. Twist one end tight for a needle, then through the coil and stretch, and maybe twist a bit, to get it through. I had 50 in rotation so I can't really, accurately, judge how long they lasted between rebuilds, but it was a maybe twice a year project to rebuild them all.
Yeah, 50 clearos in rotation. Keep in mind they're 1ml capacity and I always had a cig-a-like stuck in my mouth back then, this was before the days of RTAs and TC. On a "heavy" day I'd go through at least ten of them, plus four or five batteries, always had six batteries in rotation and four chargers, too. It got me, successfully, off of tobacco so it was well worth all the work of rebuilding them, plus I'm cheap!
The double insertion method worked GREAT! Got it so tight that it didn't move an micro inch when I trimmed it.Thank you so much for the help!
Fused SS316, 32g core and 38g wrapping. Used Fiber Freaks D1. Is the wick burned? It seems to taste somewhat not as good as it did, but I'm not sure if that is because I have eaten, and got some aftertaste after that.
Fused SS316, 32g core and 38g wrapping. Used Fiber Freaks D1. Is the wick burned? It seems to taste somewhat not as good as it did, but I'm not sure if that is because I have eaten, and got some aftertaste after that.
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Does anyone know if it's okay to just wash a rayon wick and let it dry? I have reasons for not wanting to remove a bottom wick
Certainly. You may get some extended life out of your wicking by washing it. If the coil is gunked a little you can scrub it a bit and rinse it too. If the coil is heavily gunked it would be better to dry burn and rewick.
Btw, I don't wait for the wick to dry after rinsing it. I just refill the tank and start vaping. Eventually the water will vaporize off and let juice come back in.
Btw, I don't wait for the wick to dry after rinsing it. I just refill the tank and start vaping. Eventually the water will vaporize off and let juice come back in.
Are u saying it doesn't taste as good with a new wick? If it's tight in the coil it takes more time to break in unless you prime it by dripping & firing a few times before u assemble the tank. It doesn't look burnt.The double insertion method worked GREAT! Got it so tight that it didn't move an micro inch when I trimmed it.Thank you so much for the help!
Fused SS316, 32g core and 38g wrapping. Used Fiber Freaks D1. Is the wick burned? It seems to taste somewhat not as good as it did, but I'm not sure if that is because I have eaten, and got some aftertaste after that.
View attachment 632909
Thank you! Great to know!
Thank you! Uploaded a new picture as I got a little too creative in Gimp with the original. It tastes fine as I taste, but as you can see it's dark in the middle, so I wondered if it was burnt. Vaped on 250C (482F),and if it is I guess it happened then.
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You could have overheated it a bit NoCigs or maybe your juice has a lot of sweetner.
Something helpful to remember is that just because your temp setting is at 482°f does not necessarily mean the coil is at 482°f. The coil temp can easily be 70+ degrees hotter or cooler than your temp setting if the TCR (temperature coefficient of resistance) of the coil wire doesn't match your mods' material profile. Sounds complicated but it's not once you study up a bit.
Bottom line is the crappy wire that comes from oversees many times does not have the correct TCR for it's material type. I have found some wire to be waaay off in TCR (especially SS and Ti) and have had to compensate wildly, sometimes setting temp at 350°f to keep from going burning with one supplier's 316L SS and temp settings as high as 525°f just to get a warmish vape with a different supplier's 316LSS.
A dry cotton test will tell a lot about your wire/mod combo. Dry cotton should show a very slight browning in the center of the coil with temp set to 420°f. Note: If your mod has a preheat function turn it off before attempting the test or it can cause skewed test results.
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For those who are interested in learning how temp control works eg TCR, TFR, CSV files etc, this is the thread to read. The math is there too as well as Evolv DNA programming in escribe. A great thread to be sure.
TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
Some people are happy just knowing that water comes out of a faucet when they turn the handle; others need to know how the plumbing works.
TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
Some people are happy just knowing that water comes out of a faucet when they turn the handle; others need to know how the plumbing works.
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