Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!

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PaulBHC

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It can be tricky wicking something like a kayfun though. Cellucotton requires more coverage than cotton in the coil and the tails are really thick as a result. I just put a few strands of the tail into the channels with the rest inside the chimney and I don't have any dry hit issues. I just got an Aqua clone and the channels are huge in that thing, which works well with this stuff.

That will be the next phase of this experiment, finding which devices work the best with rayon.
 

Rossum

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I prefer to use the metric system when talking about airhole and coil diameter, most people don't for some reason.

5/64 is just seems like an insane measurement when you could just say 2mm.

Not knocking on people who use the standard system, just saying.
I grew up on the metric system. I agree that it's far more sensible. However, I live in the US and when I talk about this kind of stuff, I use the units specified that the tools are actually made to. You see 5/64" is not 2mm, it's 1.98. As a mandrel for a coil, that probably doesn't matter, but with many tools it does. Use the nearest metric sized open-end wrench on an inch-sized fastener and you'll likely strip the head of the fastener. Also, good luck trying to find metric drill bits at Home Depot or Lowe's.
 

awsum140

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Terry, just take a ride to Home Depot or Lowe's and you can buy bits in all the sizes needed for under ten bucks. If you're feeling "flush", stop into Harbor Freight, or look on-line, and buy a set of numeric/metric/fractional bits for under 100 bucks. The easiest "dodge" for me has been using a 14ga blunt needle. It works well in bottom coil stuff like T3s and PTs. If not, just get a short piece of 14ga copper wire, commonly used for wiring in a house, strip it bare, and wrap away. 14ga is 1.628mm and seems to be a good size for me, anyway. Plus, Kanthal being what it is, it does "open" slightly after being wound.

I'm still not real happy with rayon in my CE3s. The flavor is there, no question, but the vapor output is kind of low compared to silica. I think it is related to the small port for the wick to exit the coil chamber into the tank. I'm waiting for the Tencel to arrive, since it's stiffer and more like silica in that respect, it may work better than the CC/rayon. If that doesn't work out I plan on trying some gentle Dremel work on a CE3 to see if making that port a little bigger improves things.

I haven't noticed any flavor "break-in" period with rayon/CC but that may be because my taste buds are shot from 50+ years of tobacco. I may boil the CC before using it just to be safe and make sure it is a little cleaner.
 
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Rossum

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For metric bits, try Ace Hardware. My Ace has a good selection.
Not all of us are arithmetically challenged. I have no problem with fractional inch dimensions. Where I start to lose it is with numbered and lettered drillbit sizes; that "scale" is purely arbitrary because no formula exists to convert those "gauge" sizes to an actual dimension.
 

xpen

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I don't have any mm drill bits but I have some 2mm ecowool and when I lay it on top of a 1/8 drill bit it seems to be the same size. So how far off is 1/8 to 5/64? Gez I hate fractions. :facepalm:

Don't use wicks as a diameter measuring reference, they're usually much bigger (+50% not unheard of) than their nominal size.. Ecowool, especially so.

As a reference (roughly):
1/16 = 1.6mm
5/64 = 2mm
1/8 = 3.2mm
 

RadicalM1nd

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So I've been having this problem lately. After only one tank in my Fogger V4.3, the wicks look like this:

IMAG0308.jpg


As you can see on the left side, the wicks are not only super dark, but they also fall apart when i pull them out, so there must be some problem. Using a 60% VG blend without nicotine. The juice is very clear and bright, so that shouldn't be the problem. Am I using too much?
 

ethermion

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If I may, you guys should go to your local hobby store, in the jewelry section, and pick up one of these:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=510520

Indeed. With a drill bit, I made Picasso coils. Warped in space and time. With the gizmo, I make coils that look factory made, time after time. Definitely worthy the $12 or so. No squeezing, no re torching, no hot legs. Each one perfect, including the first - quite the surprise for a clumsy doofus like me.


Sent from my brain using Tapatalk
 

SlickWilly

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I prefer to use the metric system when talking about airhole and coil diameter, most people don't for some reason.

5/64 is just seems like an insane measurement when you could just say 2mm.

Not knocking on people who use the standard system, just saying.

I don't have any mm drill bits but I have some 2mm ecowool and when I lay it on top of a 1/8 drill bit it seems to be the same size. So how far off is 1/8 to 5/64? Gez I hate fractions. :facepalm:

Here's a handy conversion chart in a PDF file you can print and keep with your coil making tools, take a look.
http://www.pivotpins.com/pdf/decimal_equivalents.pdf

With some searching you can find other charts like this and there are plenty of websites for online measurement conversion, here's a few
Measurement Converter: Conversion of Weights and Measures
Online Conversion - Convert just about anything to anything else
Worldwide Wholesale Distribution of Valves, Fittings, Tubing & Flanges: World Wide Metric
 

JeremyR

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Here a video of my rewicking last night. Sorry no commentary. I guess I can add that next time. I went with a much lower quality using the front facing camera on the iphone so I could upload it directly.

I stretch it initially because it evens the fibers if there's any thicker spots. I usually do it mounted on my mod but the camera angle would be off for the setup I used. So I had to try to hold the base. But I was holding the other end to pull against stretching it down to pull through.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpVveXbZD4U


Yeah half the video is just priming it. Kinda shows how fast it is to wick.

This is the wick this morning after I vaped it pretty hard last night, looks like the density will hold up and looks good. It's vaping great as you can see, Looks brand new.

The one side is going over the high post.
null_zps9af08ccc.jpg


I have the half tails pulled to opposite sides.
null_zpsc3cb368c.jpg
 
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Cuando

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Quite possibly the most notable thing I've noticed after using this stuff, I no longer have to tilt my Kraken to prevent dry hits. That should tell you something about how well this wicks.

Same goes for the RSST. I've had mine for almost two years and hardly used it, got it set up with CC now and a larger airhole and it's working flawlessly.
 

JeremyR

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25 watts isn't anywhere near 75 watts in heat generation, the difference is when the coil is wet not dry. I have vaped a 32g 1.2 ohm parallel coil @ 6v (stacked 350's in my VAMO) and I have vaped a triple twisted 32g parallel coil @ 0.3 ohms on my mech...nowhere near the same in heat generation, the 0.3 ohm build is much much hotter.

Cotton takes the heat just fine, it just has to be juicier than rayon to do so.

Simple fact of the matter is resistance is heat. If you dead short it with copper it's not going to be as hot or we wouldn't use resistance wire. Resistance = creates heat. That's why you can put 240v through a copper no resistance wire and it doesn't heat.

Electrical resistance and conductance - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I don't doubt its a warmer larger vape. You've got a much larger mass of wire. You've got a lot more mass that's why it's so much hotter in the vape. But I doubt the actual wire temperature is hotter. But I guarentee it doesn't heat as fast. Try a 26g .3 in -20 below zero. Takes forever to heat that mass of wire from zero.

Resistance wire is a type of high resistance electrical wire. The wire resists the flow of electricity, and converts the electrical energy into heat.[1]

Resistance converts power to heat.
That's why you have to put 75w through it if you put 15w though it you would get little to no heat at all.

But of course 75w works great, but on the other side some poeple get burning with cotton at 9w while other can go 60w.. It's all about technique
 
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