I just ordered some off of ebay, as well as a few other toys. I'm curious to see how it works. 5$ for 12 foot of it isn't bad if it doesn't work.
Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!
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I got this, and it's perfectly neutral tasting. The "balls" are in reality a bunch of threads woven on themselves, when you start using you soon realize that you can easily straighten them up, which is the way to go for rebuilding.
100 Wattebällchen
There's even a 200g package which seems a different "shape" so to say. Probably even easier to work with, but I didn't get it:
200g Watte
It's produced by Rauscher, according to nice quality standards and, in my personal experience, it's completely neutral tasting from the start (yes, I tasted the raw stuff with no juice on it). Bear in mind that viscose is a synonym for rayon.
I see DM is present in Bulgarie but I can't find it on their website. Maybe you'll manage to, considering I don't speak Bulgarian and I tried using Google Translate.
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Of particular interest to us, I guess, are pages 54-57 that deal with the washing and finishing process. Google Books can be helpful here.
Regarding lubricants added at the end, to avoid "virgin surfaces of the fibres give such high frictional forces that moving contact with another surface will abrade the fibre and ultimately break the filaments", it mentions the most commonly used being "mixtures of fatty acids, salts of fatty acids and ethoxylated fatty acids and ethers" (which I'm in no position to understand what it boils down to).
It adds, though that "lubricant chemicals must also have very high levels of safety and environmental approval. This is particularly true for sensitive medical and hygiene applications where a wide range of regulatory criteria must be met".
I've tried to see if it could be a source.. all of them are blends now a days.
What's up big lungs. Sounds like you'll enjoy rayon for sure.
Yes your right you can feel the squeak as well. Squeaky clean wick.
Well, I got the Fogger V4.1 and so far....blah.
It is a nice piece but I have a few peeves. The glass is chintzy, really kind of thin for a ham handed guy like me. The drip tip is too short and not big enough in diameter so it wobbles in the tank. An aftermarket tip fits fine though so at least they got the diameter of the hole in the tank right. The fill hole is a joke! The keychain screwdriver does not have a swivel for the keychain end so it wraps up trying to use it. I can see what "fun" it would be trying to fill this thing in the car, for example, juggling the tank and screwdriver. Then try not to drop either the tiny screw or the even smaller "O" ring that keeps it sealed. Then again, it holds at least 5ml so it doesn't need to be filled all that often unless you're a volcano. Then, the hole itself is kind of small, the only thing I have that fits is a 20 gauge syringe needle, 18 gauge is too big. That's kind of sucky too.
Building it is a pain in the ...... No washers under the screw heads for the coils, great idea! The screws are so small that getting both coil wires properly seated requires three hands and a lot of luck. It's not impossible to build, just a pain. Admittedly, this is my first RBA so I may be a little biased, but I do rebuild PT heads and CE3s which are even smaller so I am used to working "small", but this thing is a pain.
My first build was dual, nominal, 2 ohm, 30 gauge coils wrapped on a 12 gauge needle. It came in at 1.1 ohms after being built. That bit me in the .... as well. After spending a lot of time, effort and cursing tucking wick ends into the wick channels I got it assembled, completely, and filled it up. That's when I found out, remembered after trying, that a Vamo and a VTR won't fire at that low a resistance. It did fire on my 134 but that only goes to 12.5 watts so it was back to the drawing board.
I did another build of nominal 3.75 ohm coils out of 32 gauge. I never got to wick that one because when getting the coils mounted they got pulled apart when the screws were tightened and rewinding without enough "tail" didn't seem like a lot of fun...anyone know where to get washers that small?
Finally, I did nominal 4 ohm coils out of 31 gauge, again on a 12 gauge needle. I spent a lot of time working the cellulose to get the right size and tapered nicely to fit the wick channels. The chimney went on very nicely and it came in at 1.76 ohms after assemble. Both coils glowed very evenly when tested before wicking.
It performs OK on my 134 and not well at all on a Vamo or VTR. I attribute this to the 134 actually running 12.5 watts, max for a 134, while the other two are not actually delivering 15 watts at all. I get better performance of my Protanks and a Nautilus than the V4.1 on all of these devices. I do suspect it's a lack of power more than the V4.1. I have an iPV50 coming from a co-op so I am reserving any final decisions on the V4.1 until then.
It is a nice piece but I have a few peeves. The glass is chintzy, really kind of thin for a ham handed guy like me. The drip tip is too short and not big enough in diameter so it wobbles in the tank. An aftermarket tip fits fine though so at least they got the diameter of the hole in the tank right. The fill hole is a joke! The keychain screwdriver does not have a swivel for the keychain end so it wraps up trying to use it. I can see what "fun" it would be trying to fill this thing in the car, for example, juggling the tank and screwdriver. Then try not to drop either the tiny screw or the even smaller "O" ring that keeps it sealed. Then again, it holds at least 5ml so it doesn't need to be filled all that often unless you're a volcano. Then, the hole itself is kind of small, the only thing I have that fits is a 20 gauge syringe needle, 18 gauge is too big. That's kind of sucky too.
Building it is a pain in the ...... No washers under the screw heads for the coils, great idea! The screws are so small that getting both coil wires properly seated requires three hands and a lot of luck. It's not impossible to build, just a pain. Admittedly, this is my first RBA so I may be a little biased, but I do rebuild PT heads and CE3s which are even smaller so I am used to working "small", but this thing is a pain.
My first build was dual, nominal, 2 ohm, 30 gauge coils wrapped on a 12 gauge needle. It came in at 1.1 ohms after being built. That bit me in the .... as well. After spending a lot of time, effort and cursing tucking wick ends into the wick channels I got it assembled, completely, and filled it up. That's when I found out, remembered after trying, that a Vamo and a VTR won't fire at that low a resistance. It did fire on my 134 but that only goes to 12.5 watts so it was back to the drawing board.
I did another build of nominal 3.75 ohm coils out of 32 gauge. I never got to wick that one because when getting the coils mounted they got pulled apart when the screws were tightened and rewinding without enough "tail" didn't seem like a lot of fun...anyone know where to get washers that small?
Finally, I did nominal 4 ohm coils out of 31 gauge, again on a 12 gauge needle. I spent a lot of time working the cellulose to get the right size and tapered nicely to fit the wick channels. The chimney went on very nicely and it came in at 1.76 ohms after assemble. Both coils glowed very evenly when tested before wicking.
It performs OK on my 134 and not well at all on a Vamo or VTR. I attribute this to the 134 actually running 12.5 watts, max for a 134, while the other two are not actually delivering 15 watts at all. I get better performance of my Protanks and a Nautilus than the V4.1 on all of these devices. I do suspect it's a lack of power more than the V4.1. I have an iPV50 coming from a co-op so I am reserving any final decisions on the V4.1 until then.
Seems odd that the VTR won't run a 1.1 ohm coil. My wife and I are both running 1.2 ohm coils on our VTRs (one in an R91, the other in a Taifun GS clone). I was under the impression the VTR can handle even less than 1 ohm, but I don't recall where I found that tidbit & have yet to try it. Quality control problems at Innokin, maybe?
Well, all I can say is the one I put the V4.1 on wouldn't fire and my ohm meter, the VTR and the Vamo all show it as 1.1 ohms. QC at any manufacturer of this stuff, with rare exceptions, is always a problem.
So happy to have been able to help. You are in the position to report on how this works, considering it's packed differently and not in balls. Please let us know.Thanks to gorman
Thanks to gorman
Excellent!!!
It Looks great from here.
If you get a chance I'm interested to see a pic of how it looks out of the package. To see how its formed - batting, coil or sheeted.
Gorman, thank you once again!
First impressions- out of the "box", just the juice aroma, nothing else. Can't tell if the flavor is better, but i think it's cleaner.
This thing is wicking like crazy. At prime it took almost double the amount i usually put on cotton.
I'll be extremely happy even if i get one thing out of it-not gunking as fast as cotton as i love my custards, but i hate changing cotton an dry burning every second day.
My only concern is the material itself.
JeremyR
It's like this
First impressions- out of the "box", just the juice aroma, nothing else. Can't tell if the flavor is better, but i think it's cleaner.
This thing is wicking like crazy. At prime it took almost double the amount i usually put on cotton.
I'll be extremely happy even if i get one thing out of it-not gunking as fast as cotton as i love my custards, but i hate changing cotton an dry burning every second day.
My only concern is the material itself.
JeremyR
It's like this
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Gorman, thank you once again!
First impressions- out of the "box", just the juice aroma, nothing else. Can't tell if the flavor is better, but i think it's cleaner.
This thing is wicking like crazy. At prime it took almost double the amount i usually put on cotton.
I'll be extremely happy even if i get one thing out of it-not gunking as fast as cotton as i love my custards, but i hate changing cotton an dry burning every second day.
My only concern is the material itself.
JeremyR
It's like this
slavkov,
Boy that really looks different than what I thought I was seeing thru the bag. I would have bet it was the rope like stuff that Sally sells. However out of the box it looks the filling out of a pillow which is OK just never would have guessed.
slavkov, I don't know how to put this but there are several people (regulars in this thread) that have looked high an low for any information that might indicate a personal risk. To the best of my knowledge no one has found anything negative and this includes myself. I was browsing an MSDS sheet on rayon and the only thing I noticed was it appeared they were struggling to list anything that they could add that may be of concern to humans. They listed things like if you work in a factory that makes the stuff try to limit the amount you inhale (manufacturing small particles) along the lines of the possible problems people working in cotton factories face. But remember they are talking about a really dusty environment and mentioned that the biggest problem is more like people that work in a flower mill... you better worry about a dust explosion more than anything. There was not a single mention of any chemical concerns with finished rayon. And oh by the way the stuff is biodegradable and doesn't require any special concerns in land fills or water contamination. Kind of analogous to plowing under a cotton field. dirt -> plant cellulose -> dirt.
If you would like the MSDS sheet PM me your email address and I will send it to you.
1.2 ohm is as low as the VAMO fires, unsure about the VTR.
@awsum140
If you double stack 18350s in the VAMO, place it in variable voltage mode, and vape a 1.2 ohm atomizer @ 6 volts it will push 30 watts.
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Go here to get some help with your new RBA:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/545703-fogger-v4.html
After you get the hang of it, you'll over look all of it's little issues. For $25, it's hard to beat! What am I saying, It's hard to beat a Fogger4.1 at ANY price!
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/545703-fogger-v4.html
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