You should be able to replace it by unscrewing the center pin. This thread might help http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...2-full-atomizer-itself-rebuild-pic-heavy.html
RM2 / RBA 2.0 / Reomizer 2 Rebuild Tutorial
- Thread starter super_X_drifter
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Ok cool. Which O-ring to buy to replace it? Its not this one http://www.reosmods.com/index.php?p...category_id=32&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=3
No it's more of a tube, almost looks line fish tank airline tube
Ok thank you but where to get one?
Pet store Petco Clear Air Line Tubing for Aquariums at PETCO
Might want to check with Rob to see what he uses, he replaces the stock one with that tube.
Might want to check with Rob to see what he uses, he replaces the stock one with that tube.
Thanks I PMed him. Maybe he has something in shop I can buy. I wish I can find another flavor juice I like because my ADV is killing everything it touches over time.
I just acquired a great gently used grand and what I believe is a generic single coil bfa.
The draw seems very airy (single air hole) so I'm thinking I need to close it up a bit, not sure what to use on that & also what do you recommend starting at - 1.8ohm ? Thanks for your help!
The draw seems very airy (single air hole) so I'm thinking I need to close it up a bit, not sure what to use on that & also what do you recommend starting at - 1.8ohm ? Thanks for your help!
Try dropping the ohms down to about the 1.2 range, you might find the current airflow just right and a get a flavor pop. To test smaller air holes you can tape it and poke a hole with a tooth pick. Pdib posted how to patch the entire hole using a small screw to plug the hole. You'd then drill an alternate hole.
Here's his photo, basically after threading the screw cut off the ends inside and out and file, sand smooth. you can see the plug to the left and little lower than the new air hole.
I've searched and cannot find any good information on what I'm experiencing. Sometimes I make a coil and it kicks and kicks like a beast for weeks. Lately I'm having trouble - my coils are sizzling after I release the fire button and the taste--while not totally dry or burnt--is subpar, tasting somewhat scorched or something. I follow the standard microcoil procedure: 1/16th drill bit to wrap 28 ga kanthal on. Usually around 8 wraps for 1 ohm. I torch prior to wrapping, then once it's wrapped I take it off the mold, squeeze it with tweezers and torch again. Let it cool, put back on mold, insert into posts, tightening it down so that it is near its final position near the airhole. I try to make sure leg lengths are pretty equal. More often than not as I'm working out any hot spots I can't get rid of one hot leg--almost always the leg coming from above the coil as opposed to under. But I don't think my current coil is running with a hot leg and I still get that sizzle and subpar taste. It's not EVERY hit - but any hits longer than say, 2 seconds will do this (I prefer 4-5 second vapes...)
Any suggestions? I have not tried pushing the coil and mold up against the posts, screwing, then pulling outwards to the final position. Would that help? Do I need to make little bends on the coil legs before mounting it?
Any suggestions? I have not tried pushing the coil and mold up against the posts, screwing, then pulling outwards to the final position. Would that help? Do I need to make little bends on the coil legs before mounting it?
I don't make little bends in my wires - i just whack them in. I'm pretty sure super-x used to run a screwdriver over coils with hotspots. You could try pulsing them a bit too before you wick them.
I find just pushing the coil about a little sorts most of them out. I make "old-school" coils for HRH with 30g wire (she likes 1.3Ω to vape) and i make 26g wire macros for my RM2 builds. The lower gauge, thicker wire is easier to work with and you don't even have to torch it. Sounds like you're building them fine.
If you have hotspots you cannot get rid off - just toss the coil and make another is just as fast as trying to fix them.
T
I find just pushing the coil about a little sorts most of them out. I make "old-school" coils for HRH with 30g wire (she likes 1.3Ω to vape) and i make 26g wire macros for my RM2 builds. The lower gauge, thicker wire is easier to work with and you don't even have to torch it. Sounds like you're building them fine.
If you have hotspots you cannot get rid off - just toss the coil and make another is just as fast as trying to fix them.
T
Yeah, I went through several last night because I agree - making a new one is just as fast. And fun. Maybe I'm even hallucinating the subpar taste - I hear that sizzle and think "dry burn" and go into panic mode. But, it's really, really strange. I pulse the heck out of them and squeeze etc.
You sure you're keeping it wet enough? not obstructing the juice hole etc? On a few that i have made i've managed to move the wick and it blocks the hole when i replace the topcap.
I take a long needle and without the driptip in, nudge the wick back to where i like it.
T
I take a long needle and without the driptip in, nudge the wick back to where i like it.
T
Hotspots on a micro coil? How can that be? The turns touch each other everywhere. The only thing I can think of is that it does not start from the inside out - if that is the case you will have an "uneven" vape.
I assume you did not use a different wicking material.
Install your coil and fire. It should start glowing from the inside out. Other than that, I have no idea what the cause could be.
Sorry for not being able to help, really.
Cheers.
I assume you did not use a different wicking material.
Install your coil and fire. It should start glowing from the inside out. Other than that, I have no idea what the cause could be.
Sorry for not being able to help, really.
Cheers.
yep, I've had it happen after a full-on squonk, top off watching the coil submerged and re-drain.
You're good, thanks for the input. My coils do indeed glow even from the inside out.
I just found another thread where someone else had this problem - turned out to be not enough cotton. Thing is I already thought about that - so my current cotton is if anything too much because i couldn't pull it through without the mod moving (no bunching up of the cotton, though). I may just be having a wicking problem though. It DOES seem like the cotton is sagging out one side of the coil a bit, ie not touching the top part of the end wrap. Not sure on current set up, but a lot if not all of previous setups with this issue.
Can't wait for my KGD to come in, so that I can more easily replicate the proper wick each time x.x (cotton balls atm)
You might try this... After you make your coil, put it in the atty using your drill bit to place it. Then pulse your coil, release, then squeeze the coil together with tweezers. This would eliminate having to torch them in the tweezers prior to coil placement and less chance of anything moving around. After pulsing and squeezing run the drill bit back through the coil and that should help eliminate any hot spots. Do you have an Amazon.com: Artistic Wire Coiling Gizmo(R) Deluxe Winder for Jewelry Making? With one of these you are able to tension wrap and there is no need for torching or squeezing of the coil. You just wrap the coil, pulse it, run your drill bit or rod through the coil once or twice and it is finished...
I've been doing all three of the above bolded statements - but does the first one (squeezing while torching in tweezers, off atty) pose risk of this sort of problem? ie should I just stop that part?
I don't have a coil gizmo, might consider it but do you think it would help with this problem? like, if my problem is hot legs - seems like that's more of a mounting issue.
I just rewicked, so far so good...but did notice that the end wrap of my coil has a teeny, TEENY gap between in and the rest of the coil. TEENY TINY. Squeezing isn't fixing it. I think this is characteristic of most my coils. Have trouble with that wrap staying perfectly tight
The squeezing and torching doesn't always eliminate hot spots. I have found that pulsing and squeezing did though. I don't have the full gizmo, but received the 1/16" mandrel from Russ and made a jig out of a block of wood to put in the vice. Since using the mandrel and tension wrapping I have not had to pulse and squeeze a coil to this day. As I stated previously, I mount the coil, pulse it and release, then run the drill bit back and forth through the coil a couple times and all hot spots, (very rarely there using this method of wrapping), are gone... The coils come off the jig perfectly tight. Do yourself a favor and spend the $7 at Amazon for it. You will save so much time and frustration...
I may try to find one elsewhere - I hate Amazon, but beyond being stubborn, I actually tried to order it once and Amazon refuses to acknowledge my shipping address or something
Some other threads I notice point to it being "normal" and not a problem as it is just get coil cooling down. Makes sense kind of - except it's not an overly common occurrence to me until the past 2 days. The coil kind of makes a hiss when i pulse it with a dry burn, even with no juice. So I think it's the coil rather than my wicking...IMO I'm pretty good at wicking RM2s but who knows. (either way - KGD will help with that I think)
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