S&S Mods support thread, home of the defcon.

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Bejeebus

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I can tell you this much.There is no way of raising the post as they are soldered on and have been cut.You can send it back to me and I will fix you all up with a top flush plug that I just made out of toxic free polymer clay that I baked and cold water shocked it.So now its almost hard as a rock.I'm testing it out now and its working very well.The plug is even green for all you green lovers out there.I will post a picture shortly.

oh that would be awesome possum. Let me know when things slow down... erm... well let me know when I should send it back. I can wait awhile - so if it's evolving that's cool :) Also I don't mind throwing in some more $ - hard work should not go unrewarded.
 

Chopper71

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oh that would be awesome possum. Let me know when things slow down... erm... well let me know when I should send it back. I can wait awhile - so if it's evolving that's cool :) Also I don't mind throwing in some more $ - hard work should not go unrewarded.

You can send it back now if you like.No extra money needed as you have paid once and in my book.That takes care of you for life.
 

overall

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I wrapped the top on the negative post first then pushed the wire down with my needle (toothpick, or paperclip would work also.) I left the wire long until I wrapped the coil. Next time I will trim the negative wire as soon as I wrap the post before sliding it down because it was tricky to train really close once I had slid it down. I did it pretty snug then wrapped it around the top of the positive wire. This one I didn't slide down until' my coils were beautifully spaced. I did a 4:3 wrap. Once the coils were just right I slid the wire on the positive post so that it was level with the highest coil. Now I cut the excess negative wire but left the positive tail intact until I test fired (making sure it wasn't touching anything). As soon as I saw a hint of vapor I cut off the excess positive wire. Then I tinkered until there were no hot spots (only took a slight coil adjustment) and voila life good. Ohms measured 2.0 on provari. Vaping at 3.2 volts on provari and my Altoids mod and 3.7 on my other 2 devices.

I'm working on a way to raise the post flush.As right now being down inside the well is my only option until I figure it out.What I do is I first wrap the -post on the very tip top of it and then take my exact o knife and push that post wrap down into the well almost to the bottom.I then wrap my wick loose enough to where you are able to slide the wick up and down without to much resistance.I then finish my wrap on the +post and wrap the very tip top of that post as well then I cut off the remaining wire and push that post wrap down some as well.Please don't for get to cut the remaining wire off the -post to before sliding it down.I will do a video on that later so it will show you exactly what I mean.
 

Chopper71

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I wrapped the top on the negative post first then pushed the wire down with my needle (toothpick, or paperclip would work also.) I left the wire long until I wrapped the coil. Next time I will trim the negative wire as soon as I wrap the post before sliding it down because it was tricky to train really close once I had slid it down. I did it pretty snug then wrapped it around the top of the positive wire. This one I didn't slide down until' my coils were beautifully spaced. I did a 4:3 wrap. Once the coils were just right I slid the wire on the positive post so that it was level with the highest coil. Now I cut the excess negative wire but left the positive tail intact until I test fired (making sure it wasn't touching anything). As soon as I saw a hint of vapor I cut off the excess positive wire. Then I tinkered until there were no hot spots (only took a slight coil adjustment) and voila life good. Ohms measured 2.0 on provari. Vaping at 3.2 volts on provari and my Altoids mod and 3.7 on my other 2 devices.

I could not have put that any better.Thank you for posting that.
 

ED-209

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a top flush plug that I just made out of toxic free polymer clay that I baked and cold water shocked it.So now its almost hard as a rock.I'm testing it out now and its working very well.The plug is even green for all you green lovers out there.I will post a picture shortly.

Is\Was this just an experiment or is\will it be a new standard feature or possibly an upgrade for Defcons not yet shipped out? I'm all for green and if it works better and makes it flush, don't mind paying an upgrade fee :)

Cool and innovative idea and it's always nice being green even if Kermit doesn't like to be.

Great job, love how you continuously are trying to make things better vs. just sitting back like other companies tend to do.

Oh and CONGRATS on being a full registered supplier, you deserve it.
 

Bejeebus

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I think I could do the coil if I followed those directions. I am wondering though.... the current coil looks ok to me, ie: it's not broken. So I have made sure nothing is touching metal etc. but I still can't get it to fire. It's quite soaked in juice, is that something that would make it not fire? sorry noob here. :)
 

ED-209

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Okay here is my geeky leak and tip video.I hope it turned out okay.I'm having problems with viewing it.

Great video and not sure if it's my puter but video seemed to start and stop a lot (right after that adorable puppy was trying to get on the bed :)) so wasn't sure if it was me or if that was just how the video was done, freeze framing until you did the demonstration as there was no interruption in the narration\sound.

I like the idea of the Skulpy however I am curious to what the actual melting point is and if it does melt either by firing too long or even mis-fires if the outcome is just disfiguring the top cap or if it actually produces anything toxic even though it is non-toxic but didn't know if that is at regular state since I am sure it would produce smoke.

Not trying to say or start anything:unsure: and I am by far no expert but if there's any chance of anything melting, I would prefer just the regular silicone cap or whatever you were using that had no chance of melting and I'll deal with the recessed top thingy. From my reading the only difference in using the old top cap and the new Skulpy cap is having the top cap flush, correct? I mean I didn't see anything so far where any kind of leaks were a result of the silicone top cap?

Again great video and ideas but I am just too paranoid I think.

Thanks,
 

Chopper71

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Great video and not sure if it's my puter but video seemed to start and stop a lot (right after that adorable puppy was trying to get on the bed :)) so wasn't sure if it was me or if that was just how the video was done, freeze framing until you did the demonstration as there was no interruption in the narration\sound.

I like the idea of the Skulpy however I am curious to what the actual melting point is and if it does melt either by firing too long or even mis-fires if the outcome is just disfiguring the top cap or if it actually produces anything toxic even though it is non-toxic but didn't know if that is at regular state since I am sure it would produce smoke.

Not trying to say or start anything:unsure: and I am by far no expert but if there's any chance of anything melting, I would prefer just the regular silicone cap or whatever you were using that had no chance of melting and I'll deal with the recessed top thingy. From my reading the only difference in using the old top cap and the new Skulpy cap is having the top cap flush, correct? I mean I didn't see anything so far where any kind of leaks were a result of the silicone top cap?

Again great video and ideas but I am just too paranoid I think.

Thanks,

Not sure of the melting point but it has held up for me chain vaping without any melting or fumes of any type.I think having it flush helps with the whole vaping experience.The polymer has not deformed in any way while its been in use.A lot of people use the same clay to make drip tips to drip with one a atty.Those atties burn higher then what the DC does and no one has yet said of any kind of problem.
 

ED-209

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Not sure of the melting point but it has held up for me chain vaping without any melting or fumes of any type.I think having it flush helps with the whole vaping experience.The polymer has not deformed in any way while its been in use.A lot of people use the same clay to make drip tips to drip with one a atty.Those atties burn higher then what the DC does and no one has yet said of any kind of problem.

Makes sense and thanks for the info.
 
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overall

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Mine has to be unscrewed just a tiny bit to get proper contact. My provari won't make positive contact unless I have a 510 Shortie adapter. All my other Pv's work fine so I know it is a provari issue (perhaps unique to mine). I do have to have it just a tiny bit loose on all my devices. My provari wouldn't fire at all (I blamed it on choppers wick ;) ). Not sure what prompted me to try the 510 shortie but I did and it works great.
So try screwing it in and then just barely unscrewing maybe 1/16th of a turn.
 
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