Shinyitis Support Group

[Sickbxy]

I won!

 

[Rangertrix]

Timbre matching is important but let me ask this:

If the MA costs (me) $336, instead of $699 and isn't readily available, the motion costs me $125 instead of $1000, and IS available, why not put a little trust in Audessy?

I'll stick with my B&O's , but I see your point.

 

[Rangertrix]

The cables are only used to wick juice up from the tank, I find if you pull out the center core they work much better.

Mesh is a blazing fast coil material and provides a very "unique" dry hit... You've never experienced a dry hit, like the one from a mesh coil. You pack a 1/4 pound of cotton in there trying to cover every possible mm of mesh and one corner is not quite touching... I'd get a clone of the BT before you shell out for the authentic.

The VandyVape Mesh RDA provided a decent vape. It needs 75W+ to come alive with a mesh coil, takes a ton of cotton and a quite a few ml's of juice just to saturate that much wick. Two good pulls and you are at the threshold of a possible dry hit, and you only need to experience that once to say that mesh coils used this way are just a stupid novelty.

The mesh on Fireluke coils and similar coils are a different story, they are chimney coils packed with cotton in a sleeve that keeps proper tension on the mesh.

The Mesh RDA is perfect with regular coils when used as a squonker, better performance and less power too.

But like anything in this vape game YMMV.

At least there's no more torching and torching and torching........
What mesh are you running? 300?

 

[Mowgli]

$3 is generous, got them in BM ...

Sounds like that would hurt.

 

[Rangertrix]

View attachment 740719
Framed Staple [28x2/40ga]: 1
Wire snips: 0

Probably be easier if you cut both sides at once.......

 

[Coastal Cowboy]

Thinking of picking one up Friday. Probably put a Wasp nano on it. Super tiny setup. Super cheap too.

I have one with a Wasp and one with a Pulse 22. Can't go wrong either way.

 

[Mowgli]

Under $20 for a $99 slipcased deluxe edition (New from Bookguyz in Used area).
Killer deal on a nifty set of great books (Knopf Publishers). The slipcase is shiny.

 

[untar]

$3 is generous, got them in BM $9 kit!

Get an electronics precision cutter from Knipex, it's about €14 here so shouldn't be more than $20. You're cutting wire for a $110 device so why skimp on the tools?

there's no more torching and torching and torching

Mesh doesn't develop hotspots when you put it in a mesh RDA?

 

[Rangertrix]

$3 is generous, got them in BM $9 kit!

I've bought expensive ones, cheap ones, but the best ones I found came in a jewelry making tool kit at Wal-Mart. $10 came with mini pliers and several other useful tools.
Then I have a special set of needle point 'cloth-only' Fiskar scissors that cut nothing but wick.

 

[untar]

Killer deal on a nifty set of great books

All set for a shower party with Necrospecter

 

[Mowgli]

I've bought expensive ones, cheap ones, but the best ones I found came in a jewelry making tool kit at Wal-Mart. $10 came with mini pliers and several other useful tools.
Then I have a special set of needle point 'cloth-only' Fiskar scissors that cut nothing but wick.

Fiskars makes awesome tools

 

[Rangertrix]

Get an electronics precision cutter from Knipex, it's about €14 here so shouldn't be more than $20. You're cutting wire for a $110 device so why skimp on the tools?

Mesh doesn't develop hotspots when you put it in a mesh RDA?

The key is a f%ck ton of cotton and make sure that every square inch of mesh is touching cotton.

 

[Mowgli]

All set for a shower party with Necrospecter

Mkay

 

[TrollDragon]

At least there's no more torching and torching and torching........
What mesh are you running? 300?

Back in the genny days I had 325, 400, and 500. Rolling L wicks out of 400 and using a 50/50 juice seemed to work the best for me.

I always followed the genny mesh god for wicking tutorials.
jong yeol Kim

 

[untar]

The key is a f%ck ton of cotton and make sure that every square inch of mesh is touching cotton.

That doesn't help with hot spots. I know a few people who use mesh attys (one Taifun and 3 other mesh RDA from various companies) and the guy who doesn't torch his mesh regularly reports getting dry hits out of nowhere. You can sometimes even see the hot spot on his build and there's no lack of cotton there.

The only way to make sure you don't get those is to oxidize your mesh. Not a long process like with the Genny wicks, just heat it 1-2 times with a torch.

 

[NolaMel]

I've bought expensive ones, cheap ones, but the best ones I found came in a jewelry making tool kit at Wal-Mart. $10 came with mini pliers and several other useful tools.
Then I have a special set of needle point 'cloth-only' Fiskar scissors that cut nothing but wick.

Those scissors should last forever. I used them for jewelry and stained glass stuff. Stays razor sharp

 

[Rangertrix]

Those scissors should last forever. I used them for jewelry and stained glass stuff. Stays razor sharp

Yeah, they're marked cloth only and I only cut wick, and they are just like new.

 

[Skunk!]

I have one with a Wasp and one with a Pulse 22. Can't go wrong either way.

I think I'll give the.wasp a try. Looks nice and airy. For the price you can't really lose. It is tiny too.

 

[NolaMel]

Yeah, they're marked cloth only and I only cut wick, and they are just like new.

I never pay attention to what they id them as, I pick by the shape I need

 

[Rangertrix]

That doesn't help with hot spots. I know a few people who use mesh attys (one Taifun and 3 other mesh RDA from various companies) and the guy who doesn't torch his mesh regularly reports getting dry hits out of nowhere. You can sometimes even see the hot spot on his build and there's no lack of cotton there.

The only way to make sure you don't get those is to oxidize your mesh. Not a long process like with the Genny wicks, just heat it 1-2 times with a torch.

I haven't had that problem. Had a hot spot one time, shifted the cotton for better coverage and problem solved. (no torching)