Tor R

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I'm still thinking about giving it one more cleaning just for good measure. I wish now that I had bought another black one when they were on clearance at Health Cabin. Seems like most places that have them left want 80-100 for them. I was talking about it with a guy from FB and he pointed me to a thread on POTV that discusses pulling the atomizer plate and putting silicon under it to seal it from liquid. I'm kind of surprised that Dovpo didn't seal it themselves when they built them.
Most are not secured against juice leakage around the 510 connection.
What you can do is add a thin o-ring as a seal, another option is to add a thin layer of silicone mass, the negative of the last solution is if you have to dismantle the mod again.
 

OnTheFidele

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I also use Rayon in some of the Kayfun's I have, I would fill the wick channel roughly, my experience is that Kayfun wicks very well.
Kayfun X and refill, I would let it rest with the drip tip down for 10 minutes, maybe you can get rid of some of the juice that has been forced into the chamber.
Another way you could test, the juice is quite thick, you might be able to close the top cap with the atty upside down without the juice leaking out.
Great suggestions to put on my list. Right now I have thicker tails in the juice wells (only thinned the tails by about [Edit:]*30-35%) than I'm used to in the Prime and that reduced gurgling to 1-2 puffs at the expense of reduced flavor (takes 6ml of juice to "break in"). Next, I'm going to see how the X responds to a 50% thinning. Hopefully flavor improves more than gurgling increases.
 
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PapawBrett

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This thread actually does serve a purpose...

So I'm sitting here with the exact same e-liquid (Sutliff's Creme Brulee) from the same bottle in two setups ;
eLeaf Invoke/ Siren2 w/ 0.90 SS316 coil.
Lost Vape Thelema Solo/ OXVA Arbiter w/ 0.81 SS316 coil.

The Thelema/ Arbiter is delivering much smoother and tastier vape.
With the exact same juice.

Looks like this thread has some idea what is being discussed here...
 

hittman

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    Most are not secured against juice leakage around the 510 connection.
    What you can do is add a thin o-ring as a seal, another option is to add a thin layer of silicone mass, the negative of the last solution is if you have to dismantle the mod again.
    The thread on POTV shows people not only putting silicon under the center where the wires connect but also around the entire outer rim of the 510 connection. Like you said, if it ever had to be pulled apart again then it would be a nightmare getting that plate off again.
     

    Pigs

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    I'm still thinking about giving it one more cleaning just for good measure. I wish now that I had bought another black one when they were on clearance at Health Cabin. Seems like most places that have them left want 80-100 for them. I was talking about it with a guy from FB and he pointed me to a thread on POTV that discusses pulling the atomizer plate and putting silicon under it to seal it from liquid. I'm kind of surprised that Dovpo didn't seal it themselves when they built them.
    Probably worth giving it one more clean. Can't hurt and you might save yourself future problems.
    Let us know if you decide to go down the silicone sealant path.

    The spring in the 510 assembly of my tuxedo Mixx was so stiff out of the box that I thought it was an adjustable pin, not spring-loaded. The hex shape of the pin added to that impression.

    It was only a discussion on this thread that convinced me otherwise, and eventually it loosened up enough to allow attys to sit flush.
     

    hittman

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    Probably worth giving it one more clean. Can't hurt and you might save yourself future problems.
    Let us know if you decide to go down the silicone sealant path.

    The spring in the 510 assembly of my tuxedo Mixx was so stiff out of the box that I thought it was an adjustable pin, not spring-loaded. The hex shape of the pin added to that impression.

    It was only a discussion on this thread that convinced me otherwise, and eventually it loosened up enough to allow attys to sit flush.
    I'm thinking that I should probably eventually take the leap and silicon it. I don't think all of my problem was just the one coil leaking. I think some had seeped inside over time and the coil dumping the tank was the final straw that messed it up. I'm thinking about unsoldering the wires and pull everything completely out of the shell before I silicon it if I decide to go that way.
     

    Pigs

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    I'm thinking that I should probably eventually take the leap and silicon it. I don't think all of my problem was just the one coil leaking. I think some had seeped inside over time and the coil dumping the tank was the final straw that messed it up. I'm thinking about unsoldering the wires and pull everything completely out of the shell before I silicon it if I decide to go that way.
    If you go ahead and do that, and feel like taking some photos of the process, it would be interesting to see. I've never disassembled a Mixx.
     

    hittman

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    If you go ahead and do that, and feel like taking some photos of the process, it would be interesting to see. I've never disassembled a Mixx.
    I took it back apart on my lunch break and sprayed it out with contact cleaner again a couple times and blew it out with an air hose. Last minute I decided to silicon just the 510 connection underneath the center. I wasn't brave enough to silicon the whole atomizer plate. Here are the links I mentioned before that show how to take it apart. I didn't think to take pictures. On the abyss it's just four screws on the bottom and two on the 510 plate. From there you can spray things out without unsoldering wires. I also used a couple cotton swabs at the end to see if there was any residual liquid left but they came out clean so hopefully I got almost all of it. There are o rings on the 510 plate top and bottom but evidently the seal isn't good enough to keep liquid out.

     

    Tor R

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    If you go ahead and do that, and feel like taking some photos of the process, it would be interesting to see. I've never disassembled a Mixx.
    On the Aspire Mixx, the 510 plate, apart from the 3 screws, is glued to the mod.
    I thought I was going to break the mod when I took it off.
     

    AngeNZ

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    Morning shinies ;)

    Where's the best place to buy drip tips now that Fasttech is gone?

    3fvape have a small selection and are the cheapest with regards to price and shipping.

    I've ordered from Vaping Best before too, and they also stock replacement tank glass.

    I've gotten most of mine post-fasttech from AliExpress. Just do a search for 510 or 810 drip tip, depending on what you want. Add in resin or delrin etc to get more specific results
     

    Territoo

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    Morning shinies ;)



    3fvape have a small selection and are the cheapest with regards to price and shipping.

    I've ordered from Vaping Best before too, and they also stock replacement tank glass.

    I've gotten most of mine post-fasttech from AliExpress. Just do a search for 510 or 810 drip tip, depending on what you want. Add in resin or delrin etc to get more specific results


    Thanks, Ange.
     

    Pigs

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    I took it back apart on my lunch break and sprayed it out with contact cleaner again a couple times and blew it out with an air hose. Last minute I decided to silicon just the 510 connection underneath the center. I wasn't brave enough to silicon the whole atomizer plate. Here are the links I mentioned before that show how to take it apart. I didn't think to take pictures. On the abyss it's just four screws on the bottom and two on the 510 plate. From there you can spray things out without unsoldering wires. I also used a couple cotton swabs at the end to see if there was any residual liquid left but they came out clean so hopefully I got almost all of it. There are o rings on the 510 plate top and bottom but evidently the seal isn't good enough to keep liquid out.

    That POTV Abyss cleaning guide is really well laid out and clear.
    Thanks for posting the link.

    I might give mine a clean today following it. The Abyss is definitely a device that builds up condensation under the atty and no doubt some has seeped into the internals over time.
     

    hittman

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    That POTV Abyss cleaning guide is really well laid out and clear.
    Thanks for posting the link.

    I might give mine a clean today following it. The Abyss is definitely a device that builds up condensation under the atty and no doubt some has seeped into the internals over time.
    On the thread I linked someone said that most of the liquid gets into the abyss through the back of the connection plate and that there is a gap there. I do know that there is an o ring underneath the plate that is held in by two screws and there is another o ring around the outside of where the wires are connected underneath the 510. If mine continues to work correctly then I'll probably go back and silicon around the whole connnection plate like they did on that thread.
     

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