Both tails would be in the well. Assuming you used the same amount of cotton on a dual than they wick pretty evenly.
Never had a problem with wicking actually pulling juice, other than the too much/too little cotton.
Never had a problem with wicking actually pulling juice, other than the too much/too little cotton.
Dont know If I trust the seals and cap on a DR that much. A lot of people do it like that though. The stock cap I had got knocked off pretty easily. But I put my rdas through quite a bit of abuse tho. Thing lives in my pocket as well. I think I like the bottom fill better than the one that paints the wick from the top. I just need an rsa with deep juice wells. Nice video btw. Thanks. I really like that setup as well
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Thats what I mean. I dont see the top dripping option working too well without painting with a bottle by hand. Bottom draw with nice deep juice wells seems much better imo.
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I think that is what he was saying. I kind of like the thought of the ones that put the liquid onto the deck. I think i would also like a wide 510 instead of an 810. The reason I like an 810 now is so I can see inside to drip with the cap on.
Monolithic Scatter specialized electronic components scientific hobby DIY - Box Mod Parts and Accessories - Monolithic Scatter specialized electronic components
DIY Box Mod - MondeVape
Squonk Parts
I have been searching for diy modding parts and some of these sites may have parts that could be helpful for repairs for devices.
There are plenty of other sites but firefox didn't trust a few and some popped up those "winner" things you cant't back out of.
DIY Box Mod - MondeVape
Squonk Parts
I have been searching for diy modding parts and some of these sites may have parts that could be helpful for repairs for devices.
There are plenty of other sites but firefox didn't trust a few and some popped up those "winner" things you cant't back out of.
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If only this had a BF pin.
Yun RDA | Shenzhen Ehpro Technology Co., Ltd.|Electronic Cigarettes|E cigarette|E-cigs|Ehpro
How would that even work? Thanks to their genius center airflow it's pretty much impossible. Well you can attach your squonk tube to the airflow I guess
It does have the changeable (removable) center airflow post. Now I am thinking of ways to Frankenstein that thing
Center airflow looks like it is an option. It has airflow under the coils. It could possibly be removed and if you could find a pin that works and seal it up at the deck...How would that even work? Thanks to their genius center airflow it's pretty much impossible. Well you can attach your squonk tube to the airflow I guess
The easiest way would be to buy an RDA with bottom airflow and a squonk pin for like 25$ 
.
Beats the time and money it'll cost you to convert (or destroy in the process) that other thing. Really not worth it.
.Beats the time and money it'll cost you to convert (or destroy in the process) that other thing. Really not worth it.
Totally killin my buzz here...The easiest way would be to buy an RDA with bottom airflow and a squonk pin for like 25$
Beats the time and money it'll cost you to convert (or destroy in the process) that other thing. Really not worth it.
Obviously that's the smartest and easiest way of doing it. Anybody who knows me knows I cant leave things well enough alone... I actually want a dedicated single coil atty specifically built for squonking.I'm actually a bit of a bricoleur with a diploma in jiggerypoking myself... not many workbenches you find an angle grinder, motor parts and an oscilloscope in a 50cm radius
I learned the hard way though that sometimes just forcing the insides of your head onto some material isn't the best (or even a) solution. Sometimes that means you just break it. Other times your solution results in astronomical (that's just astronomic and comical glued together) costs, like you realize you'll need a lathe and a mill to do what you set out to, maybe even just duct tape a computer and a few stepper motors to those and go full 5 axis CNC router.
Everything has got to be proportionate, if you plan to do something make sure it either makes sense or you'll learn something you want to learn anyways/buy stuff you were prepared to buy anyways.
If it's neither of those then it's probably not a good idea
So I'm not trying to curb your buzz, just trying to get you back on track because that atty frankenstoning you mentioned wasn't really going anywhere.
-gorge RDA
-flave rda
-entheon
-narda/narca clones
-wasp nano
-BB B2K
-dead rabbit SQ
-admin PM'ed me I'm using too much space for a single post
I learned the hard way though that sometimes just forcing the insides of your head onto some material isn't the best (or even a) solution. Sometimes that means you just break it. Other times your solution results in astronomical (that's just astronomic and comical glued together) costs, like you realize you'll need a lathe and a mill to do what you set out to, maybe even just duct tape a computer and a few stepper motors to those and go full 5 axis CNC router.
Everything has got to be proportionate, if you plan to do something make sure it either makes sense or you'll learn something you want to learn anyways/buy stuff you were prepared to buy anyways.
If it's neither of those then it's probably not a good idea
So I'm not trying to curb your buzz, just trying to get you back on track because that atty frankenstoning you mentioned wasn't really going anywhere
.-nudge 22
-gorge RDA
-flave rda
-entheon
-narda/narca clones
-wasp nano
-BB B2K
-dead rabbit SQ
-admin PM'ed me I'm using too much space for a single post
The Lost Vape Drone has been fully repaired and is back in service again. Just about every plastic screw hole was cracked, they had machine screws in half of them and the overall build quality is very poor. There was liberal use of CA to repair the cracked plastic screw holes and all the machine screws were replaced with proper plastic screws.
I replaced all the o-rings in the 510 connector and repaired the 90° juice tube that pulled out with good old J-B Weld. A little around the top of the tubes taper, press it into place then a fillet of J-B Weld around the base of the tube. Before anyone says... "No. When fully cured, J-B Weld is non-toxic." The juice tube was glued in from the factory, it is the only way to assemble the 510 connector and it looked to be CA that they used.
It's all cleaned out and everything has been put back together tightly, hopefully the refurbished 510 will not seep anymore. I put a piece of foam rubber in behind the fire button, with a square hole cut in it for the switch. A little spongier than it was before, but perfectly usable.
Now to decide what RSA to put back on it, the Medusa Reborn, Peerless or Goon... I really need a few more large RSA's.
I replaced all the o-rings in the 510 connector and repaired the 90° juice tube that pulled out with good old J-B Weld. A little around the top of the tubes taper, press it into place then a fillet of J-B Weld around the base of the tube. Before anyone says... "No. When fully cured, J-B Weld is non-toxic." The juice tube was glued in from the factory, it is the only way to assemble the 510 connector and it looked to be CA that they used.
It's all cleaned out and everything has been put back together tightly, hopefully the refurbished 510 will not seep anymore. I put a piece of foam rubber in behind the fire button, with a square hole cut in it for the switch. A little spongier than it was before, but perfectly usable.
Now to decide what RSA to put back on it, the Medusa Reborn, Peerless or Goon... I really need a few more large RSA's.
That center airflow pin is/can be just a way of getting more air to the wicks. It's not needed--mine has the no flow pin in it. If the BF 510 pin came up to the deck, the juice would flow into the well around the airflow openings. The atty has about 1ml of capacity in the well.How would that even work? Thanks to their genius center airflow it's pretty much impossible. Well you can attach your squonk tube to the airflow I guess
I've removed the airflow pin and the standard 510 pin. There's a path straight through.
this looks pretty sleek,is it new?Original GEEKVAPE Tab Pro Powerful Mod / Ohm Reader -$39 Online Shopping| GearBest.com
Yeah I know that was half joking and half brain running loose... The center airflow may actually make that one really simple tho.I have learned from past experiences and keep the Frankensteinery confined to diy e liquid. I am really interested in the diy box mods though.
What is CA?
I am thinking that could be a pretty simple because of that airflow. If you found a pin that fit, the only thing would be to seal it at the deck.
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You'd need a long 510 squonk pin and an insulator with inner threading and outer oring grooves to fill the free space and seal the juice. Those would both have to be manufactured, I'm 99% certain you won't find them anywhere.
It's doable but it'll cost if you let somebody make them or make them yourself (well except if you already have all the exact tools needed for that). An AURA is just 25-ish$, not sure if you can beat that ^^
Maybe you could cannibalize the old ceto mesh rda, it has a squonk pin + somekindofstraw assembly that could probably be used (still need an insulator around that) but that'll be the cost of a ceto.
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