I build at .16 to .2 on my mech squonkers, depending on the mod and the atomizer. So I basically start out at around 100 watts, and I tap out for a fresh battery at around 70 watts.
No glass to break
Makes senseThey each have their own pros and cons. That being said, with a squonker your juice is stored away from the atomizer where it doesn't heat up as you vape. 2. You control the flow of liquid to the wicks as opposed to relying on the tank, so whereas with a tank where you might like the flavor but it wicks too fast or slowly giving you leaks or dry hits that's a deal breaker. With a squonk atomizer, that's not an issue.
I'm questioning the existence of this 50w limit.I love the look and price point of the squeeze. It's just the 50 watt limit that killed it for me. If you like a 50 watt vape though, just build at .2 ohms and you'll get the same vape from full charge to dead battery. It would be an awesome mod if that's your thing.
Thanks to all for the info!
Looks like I will order a Pico and a Pulse 22 to go with it.
Looking forward to how it works, hope to get that fresh primed hit multiple times between wicking.
How long can you usually go before needing to rewick? I realize type of juice has a lot to do with it. I can get a Kanger OSS to last a week, but the last couple days the flavor tends to get muted.
With builds on my Kayfun 5 I only get two or three days between rewicks.
I'm questioning the existence of this 50w limit.
I know the device description states that, but I've seen a lot of info online that says this isn't true. No limit and it fires at full battery voltage until cutoff.
I would be interested to know for sure from somebody who has built it low enough and/or compared it to a mech using a similar build low enough to exceed the 50w output.
I would be surprised if it really limited output to 50w. Not a deal killer for me, never vaped 50w myself anyways, but nice to know regardless in case my vape style changes in the future.
For the size/purpose of the device (to me) 50w is more than plenty. I mean, throw a Wasp Nano on it, and it's a ridiculously small combo for stealth vaping or simply to carry when out and about. I've got two more on the slow boat right now. $16 each, not sure how you can go wrong.
Thank you very much for the link. Kind of thought this was the case. Will take a gander at the thread you posted.There was a very good write-up of testing done on the Squeeze on Reddit: Eleaf Pico Squeeze tested: It doesn’t cap at 50W! + More than you’d ever want to know about this device. • r/electronic_cigarette
The summary copied from the write up:
The Pico Squeeze does not cap at 50W. Build at around 0.24Ω if you wish to stay below the suggested 50W limit of the device. Otherwise, the Pico will fire down to around 0.124Ω minimum resulting in around a 75W output. Use a good 20A cell for builds down to 0.16Ω and a 25A for anything lower. The internal construction is pretty good, as is the charging system and USB socket.
At .12 ohms, 4.2 volts should be putting out around 147 watts. 75 watts would be 3 volts. I'm actually vaping a .14 ohm build right now so I tossed it on the Rig Squonker with a fully charged battery and tested the drop. It fired at 3.79 volts, so the actual output is roughly 102 watts.Otherwise, the Pico will fire down to around 0.124Ω minimum resulting in around a 75W output.
Some of these were already mentioned, but I'll elaborate a bit:What is the advantage of a squonk over a RTA?
Just for the record, I'm an OTR trucker and a squonker will drain the entire bottle of juice up through the atomizer going over mountains out west. It's not quite as bad if you're using it, of course, but crossing the Rockies anywhere in Colorado you can't vape as fast as the liquid comes up. I make sure all of my regulated squonkers are drained before I head out that way.It doesn't become flooded or start dry-hitting with changes in temperature or altitude.
Weird, 'cause I've never had that problem flying, where the pressure altitude goes from 0 to 8000' (and of course back down again) much more rapidly than it possibly could driving, and I've had a squonker in my shirt pocket on every flight I've taken in the last ~4 years.Just for the record, I'm an OTR trucker and a squonker will drain the entire bottle of juice up through the atomizer going over mountains out west. It's not quite as bad if you're using it, of course, but crossing the Rockies anywhere in Colorado you can't vape as fast as the liquid comes up. I make sure all of my regulated squonkers are drained before I head out that way.
I would buy spares as backups.Another question, how durable are the bottles? Will I need extras?
Great Information, thanks..Some of these were already mentioned, but I'll elaborate a bit:
1) Juice is stored remotely instead of in contact with a hot chamber.
- That keeps the juice fresher.
2) You're in control of juice flow.
- It's not dependent on a some number of o-rings all sealing perfectly to keep from flooding.
- It doesn't become flooded or start dry-hitting with changes in temperature or altitude.
3) It's super quick and easy to pull the cap off to inspect or re-wick your build.
- It doesn't matter how much juice is left in the bottle.
4) It makes playing with flavor combinations very easy.
- Put one flavor (or even unflavored) in the bottle and drip the other to get a feel for how they mix.
5) The distance between the coil and your mouth is generally shorter in an RDA than it is on a tank.
- This gets you
There are only two possible downsides I can think of:
A) You actually have to remember to squonk and learn not to over-squonk.
- Like driving a manual transmission, after doing it for a while, it becomes second-nature.
B) Squonk bottles are intrinsically made of some flexible material like plastic or silicone, not glass.
- Potentially a problem with some juices, but personally, I wouldn't vape such juices to begin with.
Have you ever actually...Another question, how durable are the bottles? Will I need extras?