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Mactavish

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That's what I'm talkn' bout. 3 month old Ti coils rock!! If the one I'm vapn' on right now isn't 3 months old it's darn close. Thanks for your help with Ti early on Tony, your recommended low wattage dryburn technique is still workn' great for me.

Now that I finally own a DNA200 device, LavaBox. I could try the technique below to pulse dry burn:

"Program a curve with a TCR of 0.00725 and set the temperature to 572f/300c and assign it to an unused profile on the dna 200. Max temperature will be limited to 1112f/600c (real) and you can pulse whatever you want and the coil will never be overheated to the point of forming TiO2... Gunk will fall off just like with a normal dry burn."

MY COIL:
Unkaman Ti. 26 gauge, 6 wraps, 3mm coil, .32 ohm. Spaced wrap.

It did pulse red on its own, nice! coils were not too dirty to begin with. After pulsing the coils looked DULL GREY, no white powder. Used soft toothbrush and pipe cleaner with some 99% alcohol, then water wash and dry. Rewicked with KGD cotton.

Too bad Ti gets a bad rep mostly because of the "dry burn" issue. I prefer a NON alloy material and am lead to believe it's the BEST choice so far as a coil material. I read here many are chasing the NiFe material, but other then being able to dry burn it like Kanthal I don't get the benefit over Titanium!

The next time I wrap a Ti coil, I'm going to use this custom DNA200 preset to see if I can anneal and soften my 26 gauge Unkaman wire, on an empty Subtank RBA, just making a simple loop from one atty lead to the other. Tried this on my IPV D2 at a low wattage mode and it did not work very well, for a variety of reasons.
 

dwcraig1

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I too really like using Ti once I discovered the scare wasn't all that scary when handled properly.
I would (will) like to start using NiFe to replace it if possible simply because I'm lazy. I anneal my Ti carefully with a pen torch prior to wrapping it. One of the things that gave me the most relief about using it was purposely overheating it to see just how red it gets to cross the line of no return.
I actually don't even like to post about what I do with it as I'm a firm believer in Murphy's Law, someone will screw it up.
 
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TrollDragon

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That's what I'm talkn' bout. 3 month old Ti coils rock!! If the one I'm vapn' on right now isn't 3 months old it's darn close. Thanks for your help with Ti early on Tony, your recommended low wattage dryburn technique is still workn' great for me.
Is there a link to that technique? Do you just pulse to the start of a very dim glow or no glow at all?
 

apbtdog1

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I too really like using Ti once I discovered the scare wasn't all that scary when handled properly.
I would (will) like to start using NiFe to replace it if possible simply because I'm lazy. I anneal my Ti carefully with a pen torch prior to wrapping it. One of the things that gave me the most relief about using it was purposely overheating it to see just how red it gets to cross the line of no return.
I actually don't even like to post about what I do with it as I'm a firm believer in Murphy's Law, someone will screw it up.

I was using solely Ti cawz i hated the taste of Nickel then i picked up some NiFe Reactor wire while i was at Vapemania and i reeeally like it. I got worried about the Ti because of the oxidization. I could see it! My coils would get this white residue on em. That scared me so when i found out about NiFe i had to try it
 
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cigatron

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Is there a link to that technique? Do you just pulse to the start of a very dim glow or no glow at all?
I set my tc mod to 7w in vw mode and pulse for 10secs. The coil barely glows red and the end turns don't glow red but get hot enough to release rhe gunk. My Ti coils are all 24g 2.8mm 6wrap. If you are using a thinner gauge, different dia or number of wraps you may need to pulse with a little more or less power.
 
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TrollDragon

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I set my tc mod to 7w in vw mode and pulse for 10secs. The coil barely glows red and the end turns don't glow red but get hot enough to release rhe gunk. My Ti coils are all 24g 2.8mm 6wrap. If you are using a thinner gauge, different dia or number of wraps you may need to pulse with a little more or less power.
Thanks for the info!
 
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WileE

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Went out of town for a few days & there's 4 new pages.
Someone had checked the resistance on the US NiFe version "Reactor Wire" I've been working & it measured significantly lower then predicted based on specs. I had never noticed this, but then again I never checked resistance on a straight unoxidized wire. It's been bugging the crap out of me ever since as to whether or not the calculated/predicted resistance value for an alloy is based on fully oxidized wire or ?. I strongly suspect it is based on fully oxidized. I've noticed with all the NiFe builds I've been doing that the Ω always come out almost dead on with Steam engines predictions +-.01-.02Ω max and that's within variations of various device ohm reading accuracy + the various static resistance of the atty's themselves. I need to qualify that statement by saying the accurate Steam Engine predictions are predicated on final Ω reading after oxidizing the coils (bright glow, middle out). I just did some builds before going out of town to check accuracy of wire vs specs & steam engine predictions. First build was US NiFe "Reactor Wire" on a Stillare RDA with nice brass posts. 26ga 2.5mm x 6.5 wrap dual. Per steam engine it should be just a smidge under .13Ω I pre torched the coils as usual to oxidize & then installed.
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp?si=false&a=true&mat=reactor&s=dp&r=0.125&hfnw=40&awg=26&id=2.54
After dry burn & cool down it reads .13 on the DNA-40 (original late style with big screen).
img_2860-jpg.500006
img_2861-jpg.500008


Keep in mind the best ohm meter i have is the DNA-40. So given my limited equipment I decided to do a back to back test of 27ga NiFe Reactor Wire vs the 27ga Genuine Kanthal Nifethal from a sample I have. First I measured each wire with a high quality micrometer with resolution of .00005". Reactor 27 = .01410" & Nifethal 52 = .01405" Super thin advantage goes to Nifethal since thinner should equal more res.

Next I decided to do a single coil build for each alloy designed on steam engine & I would install them one at a time using the same posts on the same atty & same DNA 40
First build is Reactor 27ga I used a 2mm mandrel on coil master, but it does spring a little so measured actual .083" at just over 8.5 wraps (8.71) Steam engine predicts .35Ω
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.as...r&r=0.35&hfnw=40&awg=27&id=2.1082&ws=0.009906
This is contact coil & first click on DNA-40 reads .23?? (See profile pic) Wow that's way low. much lower then predicted on steam engine & much lower then the discrepancy measured on the straight unoxidized piece I mentioned in the beginning. I haven't been noticing this because my standard practice has been to torch the coils before installing on the atty. And unlike the straight unoxidized piece this is a contact coil so any shorts across coils will show. A few pulses strums & wiggles later it's firing nice and even middle out, then take it off & give it 5 min. to cool, reinstall & now it reads .36Ω! Considering for this experiment I'm building on a Tobh RDA clone there could easily be .01Ω res in the atty. Either way it's consistent with what I've been seeing in that once oxidized it's almost spot on with Steam engine.
img_2855-jpg.500009


Now for the 27ga Nifethal 52 Steam engine predicts a full extra wrap 9.5 vs 8.5 (all else same) will result in a lower build at .33Ω
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.as...2&r=0.33&hfnw=40&awg=27&id=2.1082&ws=0.009906
First click on DNA = .27 yikes that's .05 higher then the Reactor, but I know the unoxidized reading is not a trust worthy indicator so lets see. Dry pulse, wiggle, strum bla bla take it off let it cool 5 min like before then reinstall & DNA now reads .32Ω just a snicker under Steam engines prediction.
img_2858-jpg.500010
img_2859-jpg.500011


To sum up my crude experiment:
Reactor 27 = just slightly higher then Steam engine prediction @ .36 with 8.5+ wraps after being oxidized.
Nifethal 27 = slightly lower then predicted on S.E. @ .32 with 9.5+ wraps
Nifethal 27 mics slightly smaller @.01405" vs Reactor 27 at .01410"
The NiFe wires I have been working with must be oxidized to achieve a stable & predicted resistance at least with contact coils.

I will do another experiment with spaced coils, but preliminary suspicion is that spaced unoxidized will also result in lower then predicted resistance until it's been oxidized.
 
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Mactavish

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I set my tc mod to 7w in vw mode and pulse for 10secs. The coil barely glows red and the end turns don't glow red but get hot enough to release rhe gunk. My Ti coils are all 24g 2.8mm 6wrap. If you are using a thinner gauge, different dia or number of wraps you may need to pulse with a little more or less power.

Citation, do you own a TC mod, if so give this a try (mentioned in my post above):

"Program a curve with a TCR of 0.00725 and set the temperature to 572f/300c and assign it to an unused profile on the dna 200. Max temperature will be limited to 1112f/600c (real) and you can pulse whatever you want and the coil will never be overheated to the point of forming TiO2... Gunk will fall off just like with a normal dry burn."

My IPV D2, could not buck the voltage low enough to do a normal 7 watt power mode dry burn. Now that I have a DNA200 I was finally able to try the above.
 
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Mactavish

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jazzvaper

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So, on paper it looks like NiFe52, right?

But in practice, it's not working like NiFe52 at all. So, where do we go from here?

I am coming to believe that the shipment to @dwcraig1 was a mistake. I have the Zivipf which is indeed 52/48, and, have a shipping notice from Unkamen that I will soon be able to compare.

Stay tuned.
 

Landman

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I am coming to believe that the shipment to @dwcraig1 was a mistake. I have the Zivipf which is indeed 52/48, and, have a shipping notice from Unkamen that I will soon be able to compare.

Stay tuned.
Mine will be here today - hope you're correct and what @dwcraig1 was an unfortunate error.
 
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druckle

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So, on paper it looks like NiFe52, right?

But in practice, it's not working like NiFe52 at all. So, where do we go from here?
Are there other possible deviations about the Unkamen wire that haven't been accounted for in the experiments with it so far? for example is the gauge really what we think it is? A small variation in wire diameter could make the results seem wonky.

I don't think anyone is going to pay for detailed trace element analysis and the data sheet Ralph got from the mill is sketchy so without detailed analysis we don't know if there are minor elements screwing up the Curie Temperature.

If someone has the German wire and the Unkamen wire a comparison build would be interesting.

For now I really like my trusty, never variable, Titanium coils and I dry burn them with impunity using the method balazsk posted.

;)


Duane
 
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