ya im not sure i even want to try using it tbh. not a fan of using stuff that i dont know what it is.
the label says hard wire on it... it wasnt joking lol
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TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
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the label says hard wire on it... it wasnt joking lol
Now I'm really scratching my head. dwcraig & Landman Please confirm I have these builds right:
1st dwcraig1 built this with 26ga NiFe52? from Unkaman
And instead of .28Ω you got .606Ω
2nd Landman built this with 24ga NiFe52? Also from Unkaman
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.as...999999999997&ll=5.0038&ws=0.38099999999999995
And got .314Ω instead off .315Ω predicted by SE ?????, but as you can see from the above SE build Landman's described
build would be .17Ω
To get a SE predicted .315 you'd need 12.5 wraps per the build below.
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.as...999999999997&ll=5.0038&ws=0.38099999999999995
If I understand correctly then both the 26 & 24ga have resulted in roughly double the resistance they should be & per dwcraig a very low TCR per dwcraig
If this is NiFe 52 then .508Ω @ 68°F should be .943Ω @ 450°F If TCR is .001 then it would be .617Ω at 450°F
Based on resistance & TCR it sounds more like 316 or 317SS
One thing is for sure it's not NiFe 52
1st dwcraig1 built this with 26ga NiFe52? from Unkaman
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp?si=false&a=true&mat=nft52&r=0.28&hfnw=40&awg=26&id=2.7178
And instead of .28Ω you got .606Ω
2nd Landman built this with 24ga NiFe52? Also from Unkaman
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.as...999999999997&ll=5.0038&ws=0.38099999999999995
And got .314Ω instead off .315Ω predicted by SE ?????, but as you can see from the above SE build Landman's described
build would be .17Ω
To get a SE predicted .315 you'd need 12.5 wraps per the build below.
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.as...999999999997&ll=5.0038&ws=0.38099999999999995
If I understand correctly then both the 26 & 24ga have resulted in roughly double the resistance they should be & per dwcraig a very low TCR per dwcraig
If this is NiFe 52 then .508Ω @ 68°F should be .943Ω @ 450°F If TCR is .001 then it would be .617Ω at 450°F
Based on resistance & TCR it sounds more like 316 or 317SS
One thing is for sure it's not NiFe 52
@FormulaBass - I would also suggest starting with NI 200, but not because I think it's better or safer. It's just so you'll get to experience how aggravating it is to build a 15 + wrap coil/coils with a 28 or 30ga wet noodle. That way you will appreciate what has driven this thread from the start & when you do finally build with NiFe 52 (the holly grail of TC) you will have the Ni200 build experience for reference.
I'm only half joking really because even NiFe 52 is not as easy to build as good old A1 Kanthal so if you've never built with Nickel then it's hard to appreciate how good the NiFe really is. The advantages of NiFe have been listed several times in this thread, but IMO one of the biggest advantages is that for someone new to TC it's an easy learning curve since it builds just like Kanthal albeit a little more difficult. The part that takes more patience is getting the coil working right IE glowing inside out. The Kanthal forms the ideal (Alumina) oxide layer quickly & typically when you dry pulse kanthal your starting resistance is much higher then .1Ω so when you have a hot leg you only hitting it with maybe 50 watts whereas a hot leg on a .1Ω NiFe might pull 250+watts if you pulsed it on a tube mech for example & you'd basically have a plasma cutter for a coil instantly nuking a leg (I'm speaking from experience). So if & when you take the plunge for NiFe 52 I'd first suggest buying from a reputable source with known quality. In the US I can suggest this one. http://www.cottonman.com/reactorwire.html
or http://www.vapevineonline.com/reactor-wire-p/reactor-wire.htm
Then utilize Steam engine for your build. You can pick the wire from the drop down menus in both the coil calculator and the wire wizard. I beleive your X2 Smok allows TCR input so that will be easy. but if you have other TC mods without that feature you can use the Ni200 equivalent option in Steam engines Wire wizard to figure out the required offset for a Nickel calibrated device.
I have specifically built and used that wire with this build
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.as...999999999996&ll=5.0038&ws=0.38099999999999995
in a Dogbone RDA on a Smok X cube 1 in Nickel mode and at 380°F setting it is a warm to hot vape. A word of caution, make sure you have enough watts/joules for your build or it will never reach temp setting while wet & you won't actually be vaping in temp control. I usually just look at the heat flux on Steam engine and set the watts to the max watts of the device I'm building for I've found that if you have less then 132375 mW/in² the coils will have a noticeably slow ramp up & given enough air (Mutation Xv4) it may never get to temp setting.
Once you have temp set to your taste then adjust watts/joules on you device up incrementally 5 or 10 at a time until the ramp up time doesn't get noticeably faster. You will need 60watt min. for the build above & at 100watts you'll have almost instant ramp to temp.
I'm only half joking really because even NiFe 52 is not as easy to build as good old A1 Kanthal so if you've never built with Nickel then it's hard to appreciate how good the NiFe really is. The advantages of NiFe have been listed several times in this thread, but IMO one of the biggest advantages is that for someone new to TC it's an easy learning curve since it builds just like Kanthal albeit a little more difficult. The part that takes more patience is getting the coil working right IE glowing inside out. The Kanthal forms the ideal (Alumina) oxide layer quickly & typically when you dry pulse kanthal your starting resistance is much higher then .1Ω so when you have a hot leg you only hitting it with maybe 50 watts whereas a hot leg on a .1Ω NiFe might pull 250+watts if you pulsed it on a tube mech for example & you'd basically have a plasma cutter for a coil instantly nuking a leg (I'm speaking from experience). So if & when you take the plunge for NiFe 52 I'd first suggest buying from a reputable source with known quality. In the US I can suggest this one. http://www.cottonman.com/reactorwire.html
or http://www.vapevineonline.com/reactor-wire-p/reactor-wire.htm
Then utilize Steam engine for your build. You can pick the wire from the drop down menus in both the coil calculator and the wire wizard. I beleive your X2 Smok allows TCR input so that will be easy. but if you have other TC mods without that feature you can use the Ni200 equivalent option in Steam engines Wire wizard to figure out the required offset for a Nickel calibrated device.
I have specifically built and used that wire with this build
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.as...999999999996&ll=5.0038&ws=0.38099999999999995
in a Dogbone RDA on a Smok X cube 1 in Nickel mode and at 380°F setting it is a warm to hot vape. A word of caution, make sure you have enough watts/joules for your build or it will never reach temp setting while wet & you won't actually be vaping in temp control. I usually just look at the heat flux on Steam engine and set the watts to the max watts of the device I'm building for I've found that if you have less then 132375 mW/in² the coils will have a noticeably slow ramp up & given enough air (Mutation Xv4) it may never get to temp setting.
Once you have temp set to your taste then adjust watts/joules on you device up incrementally 5 or 10 at a time until the ramp up time doesn't get noticeably faster. You will need 60watt min. for the build above & at 100watts you'll have almost instant ramp to temp.
So how was the 44 gauge free sample packaged, I may have thew the baby out with the bath water?
Since the 26awg Crazy Wire comes out more like 27 how does the 24 come out like 25. The main thing I like about true 26awg is the way it traps on the STM which make CW a little bit harder to trap at 26 because it is a little thinner and need to wrap around the screw. I still love the STM. Unk Ti is a little harder to wrap but it traps in the spot on the STM really easily. I like that.
You guys that are getting 3-6 months on your Ti coils what brand are you using.
I said a Heat Flux of 132K... Holy Snappin' Ars*oles
Then realized it was imperial, I keep my Heat Flux around 200 mW/mm2 as well.
I got my 24g from a local vape shop (brand unknown) and have used some 24g pif'd from Unkamen. Ti is Ti imo, I can't tell the difference in the vape although they do look slightly different. Consistency is a lesser concern with Ti because it's not alloyed, unlike nife or ss. Dryburning at low temp is the key to longivity with any wire imo, especially Ti. I'm vapn' a two month old KA1 dual coil in my Plume Veil as I write this. Lovely to be sure.
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I simply removed my TGT2 coiled with mystery wire from my Dicodes and screwed it onto a mechanical. I haven't used a mechanical in who knows how long, It works great (of coarse)
I had just woke up when I read this post. I missed the part about dry burning before wrapping and was totally baffled as to how to wrap it all stiff like that. I'm awake now and have read it again ...DUH
Ralph did send me the same exact crappy image of a data sheet that appears to not be filled out. (I sent him an official Kanthal NiFe52 data sheet in response)
I did follow through the 'standards' shown on the data sheet relate to a Chinese thermal wire standard intended for wrapping glass (the thermal expansion is similar I guess), I could not find anything related to what the TCR curve or values are.
It did seem odd that there are a BUNCH of other trace elements in the wire rather than being simply Nickel and Iron - the extra elements might be what is pushing it towards acting like SS.
I got email today that my 3 wire order was shipped. It might be a week or so before it gets here.
I did follow through the 'standards' shown on the data sheet relate to a Chinese thermal wire standard intended for wrapping glass (the thermal expansion is similar I guess), I could not find anything related to what the TCR curve or values are.
It did seem odd that there are a BUNCH of other trace elements in the wire rather than being simply Nickel and Iron - the extra elements might be what is pushing it towards acting like SS.
I got email today that my 3 wire order was shipped. It might be a week or so before it gets here.
Well my Taifun GT2 clones say "Taifun" on them, are we looking at cloned Kanthal NiFe52 perhaps? (NiFethal 52)
Got tracking info on my wire from unkaman on friday oct 23rdwhen i checked the usps it said it would be delivered today the 26th, it didnt make it, its still showing only 2 scans as
picked up 3:53pm newburg on oct 23
arrived origin facility 8:20 pm oct 24 8:20 pm
no info since
had another package picked up in independence missouri that same afternoon an received it today.
hoping he stopped shipment on his NiFe52 packages when he heard from you guys!
picked up 3:53pm newburg on oct 23
arrived origin facility 8:20 pm oct 24 8:20 pm
no info since
had another package picked up in independence missouri that same afternoon an received it today.
hoping he stopped shipment on his NiFe52 packages when he heard from you guys!
My order of the 3 sizes was supposed to delivered today but instead it went from Kansas City, KA all the way to Kansas City, MO taking 2 days via USPS and is just sitting there.
I get stuff faster from NYC or Atlanta faster than from LA area, too many hops using trucks instead of planes
I just got a shipping notice today for the wire so I don think it called back. I hoe he takes returns because I'm not going to need anymore ss317.
Just because it doesn't indicate that it departed doesn't mean it didn't already.My order of the 3 sizes was supposed to delivered today but instead it went from Kansas City, KA all the way to Kansas City, MO taking 2 days via USPS and is just sitting there.
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