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vapealone

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Just for playing with the numbers:
0.432(live ohms on the TGT2)/0.242(cold ohms on the TGT2)=1.785 --> ~420F
0.432 (live ohms borrowed from the TGT2)/0.272(cold ohms on the STM)=1.588 -> ~330F which is still way higher than your reading but significantly lower than the actual coil temp as long as we consider the coils identical and blame the cold ohms reading:)

I am just saying because I am atm on dual 316L and a slightest cold ohm off can easily ruin my vape.
 
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WileE

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RE: Wrap count. Not trying to correct anyone, but we often discuss coil build details so good to be on the same page. I use the same definition of wrap count that steam engine does. IE if coil legs point the same way then its half wrap & if legs point opposite then its whole wraps. Since ST coil legs always point opposite they are always whole wraps give or take depending on how high you mount it.
Untitled.png

Coil on left below is 6.5 wrap & coil on right is 7
DSC00401 (2).JPG
 

jazzvaper

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Just for playing with the numbers:
0.432(live ohms on the TGT2)/0.242(cold ohms on the TGT2)=1.785 --> ~420F
0.432 (live ohms borrowed from the TGT2)/0.272(cold ohms on the STM)=1.588 -> ~330F which is still way higher than your reading but significantly lower than the actual coil temp as long as we consider the coils identical and blame the cold ohms reading:)

Please explain your logic as you would to an eight year old...
 
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AtmizrOpin

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Legs pointing in opposite directions is a half wrap, same direction is just about a full wrap in most cases.
My STM always has a bit less temp but not usually that much. Perhaps tomorrow I'll coil up my TGS2-22 with it and see how that goes.
The reason for doing it was to see if flavor was any different and I'd say it's the same. Good.
i névér knew that. i never put much thought into opposite and same direction legs when counting. with single coils i dont even count, i just put what i think will fit. that goes for tc builds especially. good info tho.

one trick i did with my STM base is: take off all orings, 510 pin insulator, wire brush the threads, fluxed threads, heated with mini torch and sweated a tiny amount of solder into the threads. then screwed base in and out of an old 510 connector to chase the threads. worked for about a month till the soft solder wore away eventually.

EDIT.....whére can i find asbestos, it doesnt burn so it'll make for great wicking.
 
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2legsshrt

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Of course everyone is saying the SXM is not accurate but just did my second NiFe coil 6 wraps 2.5mm comes in just like the other about .208. I'm sort of using a break in which is at 375F 12J going right up to temp. The problem I had with the first one seemed to go away when I dry burned it spaced then compressed it. My first good one is working perfectly now at 400F 15J TCR.00405 oh and they both are on the STM.
 

vapealone

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Please explain your logic as you would to an eight year old...

I am not sure that I can but here it is:

1., Assuming that the coil is properly moist all the time, for a given wattage it will maintain a certain average temperature (close to the boiling point of the liquid in question, at least in our case)
2., Mod/atty's IR, not perfectly equal to ambient cold coil temperature, not perfect ambient temperature reading etc, can easily yield a false cold ohm value.
3., Regardless of the false cold ohms reading you can have a good vape but your temp reading will be off and the preheat more aggressive similar to @dwcraig1 's peeks on his STM temp curve
 
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Landman

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@dwcraig1 - Ok your the second person with this issue using NiFe 52. Both you & Landman have had a similar issue with 2 different NiFe's yours with Ziv & Landman with Reactor Wire. Coincidentally your builds are almost identical& both on Sub Tank RBA's


@dwcraig1 - Since it's a Subtank RBA it would either be 7 or 8 wraps (legs go opposite directions means whole wraps) If you had 7 wraps then your build should be .24Ω & Landmans build below would have also been almost exactly .24Ω also albeit with 1 less wrap because the Reactor wire has more resistance.






The Common denominator here is the Sub-Tank RBA Platform



The DNA boards are extremely sensitive to connection issues so try unscrewing the RBA deck 1 turn & then use a punch or something to push the 510 pin up into the bottom of the ST base, then screw the RBA deck back down and give it a try.
I had the same strange issues with the Armomamizer and Crius too. I don't really know what I've done differently but I scrapped those first builds and now have an Armomamizer with Invar36(ie, NotFe52) and another Armomamizer with the Reactor wire and they're both running fine, both 26awg, on two different DNA200's - Hotcig/Opus. I have 24 awg Invar36 in one ST+, 26 awg on another, and 26awg Reactor wire in two ST+'s but they're all being used on SXMM's by my wife. Those first few builds that were unstable, I only pulsed them in power mode on a DNA40 in one large loop before coiling, and only as far as a dull orange, but they did turn dark.
On the current ones that are working, not only did I pulse the Reactor wire brighter before coiling, I used a torch on the Invar36 wire. Then I caught myself almost forgetting to re-pulse the first one after I made the coil and put it on the Armomamizer deck. I remembered right after I got the wick installed in the first coil and took it out and pulsed it to check for hot spots. Being so used to Ti and only pulsing it to the yellow/blue stage via the one large loop method, then installing, wicking, and vaping, I couldn't remember if I pulsed the Invar/Reactor wires after coiling/installing them on the first ones that were unstable. Oh, one other thing that's changed on all of these, instead of using the coil master to build them and then space the coils out manually, I made a little coiling rig using a 7/32 machine screw and a block of wood so the coils come out perfectly spaced - 2.84 ID each time. They're not coiled with as much tension as using a wire gizmo, but they've got 1-2 lbs on them when being coiled.

So, whether it was something with not pulsing them enough, not having the correct TCR (at least for the Invar36), not checking for hot spots, or some other random issue, they all seem to be working fine now for the time being... and it's been two weeks of use on all the coils except the Armomamizer with the Invar36 build and that one has been in use for about a week.
 

dwcraig1

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RE: Wrap count. Not trying to correct anyone, but we often discuss coil build details so good to be on the same page. I use the same definition of wrap count that steam engine does. IE if coil legs point the same way then its half wrap & if legs point opposite then its whole wraps. Since ST coil legs always point opposite they are always whole wraps give or take depending on how high you mount it.
View attachment 506303
Coil on left below is 6.5 wrap & coil on right is 7 View attachment 506304
Well it took me a good 40 minutes of hard thought while I went and did something else. I am now in total agreement that legs going the same direction results in wraps ending in a half wrap.
But now I have this other problem, I see 7.5 and 8 wraps in pictured coils. I am thinking about getting new glasses soon.
dsc00401-2-jpg.506304
 

pbanj

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Well it took me a good 40 minutes of hard thought while I went and did something else. I am now in total agreement that legs going the same direction results in wraps ending in a half wrap.
But now I have this other problem, I see 7.5 and 8 wraps in pictured coils. I am thinking about getting new glasses soon.
dsc00401-2-jpg.506304
I counted the same and my eyes are fine if that makes u feel better
 

GeorgeS

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    I don't believe the STM is the issue.
    The STM that I built my coil on was a new hodge-podge of new parts - 0 prior use. It has been my experience that the positive pin on the 510 over time will no longer stick out far enough for some of my mods. (two in fact) My solution for that tank was to pull the pin and lengthen it with a bit of solder and the butane torch. ;)

    The 6-7 wrap NiFe48 build in the STM is a non-contact coil - might be a difference there.
     

    dwcraig1

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    I don't believe the STM is the issue.
    The STM that I built my coil on was a new hodge-podge of new parts - 0 prior use. It has been my experience that the positive pin on the 510 over time will no longer stick out far enough for some of my mods. (two in fact) My solution for that tank was to pull the pin and lengthen it with a bit of solder and the butane torch. ;)

    The 6-7 wrap NiFe48 build in the STM is a non-contact coil - might be a difference there.
    The one I have is the original 25 mm Subtank. The little spring loaded pin has been long gone and that end of the sliding 510 pin is built up a bit with silver bearing solder and installed upside down. I had to shorten the chimney tube a couple of mm and install a thicker o-ring under the base of the v2 RBA part.
     

    Nick N

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    I don't believe the STM is the issue.
    The STM that I built my coil on was a new hodge-podge of new parts - 0 prior use. It has been my experience that the positive pin on the 510 over time will no longer stick out far enough for some of my mods. (two in fact) My solution for that tank was to pull the pin and lengthen it with a bit of solder and the butane torch. ;)

    The 6-7 wrap NiFe48 build in the STM is a non-contact coil - might be a difference there.
    I wonder if the magnets that we used to use to add a button to a flat top battery would work for those of us without soldering skills? Between the RBA and the pin maybe? My STM is good for now but I will keep that in mind (extending the pin).

    $0.76 Round Super Strong Rare-Earth Magnets (5-Pack) (5mm*1mm Tabs: 5-Pack) at m.FastTech.com
     

    dwcraig1

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    Like an all day sucker, it lasts and lasts.
    12239567_1103496649674558_3294192268555290025_n.jpg

    So taking in all the info from previous posts I do believe I have found the culprit, I believe my contact coil's coils were shorting a bit as it heated up. I removed the existing coil and removed one wrap. I think I'll add some grooves where the wire heads in towards the screws so the wire can enter at a slight angle.
    Now working as it should with SteamEngine's NiFe52 (48)
     
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