It has been under consideration.Now this is an All Day Sucker...
TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
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Is Nifethal 70 better then Nifethal 52 and where can you get it besides Zivipf
OK I get it now the NiFe30 is the nifethal 70 which is the best. I'm using the Zivipf 48 or nifethal 52 How is the 30 compared to it.
It can be a fussy piece of kit to wick and if you need deck access partway through, it can be done without draining just like the Rose V2. The M2 version looks to be a much improved design, but it is authentic only.
Spaced dual 28g Ti build on that one @ 0.17Ω and vaping very nicely @ 35J/450F.
Hey you guys that are using Zivipf NiFe48 have you noticed there is a difference in wrapping a slightly spaced coil then dry burn it and compress then wrapping a compressed coil on a coiler dry burning it strumming then vaping. It might have been just me but I wrapped my first one on my coilmaster and immediately placed it dry burned it and strummed which didn't take much but my coil just kind of faded out after the second day. Just curious is it just me or does it oxidize the inside of the wraps with it spaced a little first. I'm really starting to like this stuff and love how easy it is to work with.
The oxide layer will develope between the turns of a contact coil too. If it didn't your turns would short, showing up as hot spots, dead zones or hot legs.
Thing is, the oxide layer that develops on kanthal has voids in it (intercrystalline voids) which allow vapor to escape and juice to flow between the turns of contact coils. With these other wire types I'm not so sure how large those voids are. The voids do clog over time and force more frequent dryburns/rewicking than a spaced coil.
I use only slightly spaced coils now for longer wick life but if I were to wind up a contact coil with a wire other than kanthal I would wind it slightly spaced, pulse to form the oxide layer and then pukse and squeeze the coil until it became contact-ish.
Dirtier juices like nets or sugary ones will clog contact coils very fast. Maybe that's what happened to your last build?
Well I know one thing it really made a difference with this stuff. I don't think I'll be getting rid of this stuff. The longer I use it the better I like it. I have 2 going right now and I can't tell the difference between Ti and NiFe if anything it is better and so much easier to work with easier then Kanthal IMO. I think what I'm going to do is wrap a contact coil with my coilmaster and stretch it just a little, place it dry burn it I think I'll try about 20w this time 15 was a little too slow, then compress it with tweezers and make sure it is glowing from the inside out wick it and enjoy it. It actually tastes better the second day just like some foods. I was trying to decide which wire I want to get a quantity of for Vapocolypse if it happens, Think I will get at least 50 meters of it. That would be enough for about 300 coils which would last me easily the rest of my life. I've almost got my survivalist setup ready just a couple more things to get and I will be set for life. Hell I'm 65 lots of health problems so that can be my legacy.
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Since reading @2legsshrt question & @cigatron response early this morning I have wanted to chime in:
Firstly, there are two considerations (a) we are still very early in usage of Nifethal 52. It took months before all of the contributors using Ni 200 had chimed in and a consensus developed (often debated, e.g., contact vs. spaced). (b) different attys may (and I urge in fact do) require different treatment. I cannot build a Kayfun 4 the same as a Lemo 2 or Aromamizer...likely not a dripper either.
I now have five (5) attys built with Nifethal 52 over a period of (?) weeks. And have used contact/spaced, pre-torched and not, dry-burned high (19W), low (7-9W), and in between (12W), with different gauges (28, 26, 24), long wicks short &etc...and other parameters.
My results do not leave me, as yet, with a fixed method of building; though I must note that my suggestion to @2legsshrt, that he followed, does seem most promising for RTAs; I just built a dual coil for the Aromamizer that turned that suggestion on its head: 28awg, contact squeezed, 12.5W dry-burned, lightly wicked.
The resulting difference from the previous Aromamizer is impressive: wicks beautifully, much better flavor & vapor.
So, what am I saying? KEEP EXPERIMENTING. [emoji6] The Grail is in sight.
Firstly, there are two considerations (a) we are still very early in usage of Nifethal 52. It took months before all of the contributors using Ni 200 had chimed in and a consensus developed (often debated, e.g., contact vs. spaced). (b) different attys may (and I urge in fact do) require different treatment. I cannot build a Kayfun 4 the same as a Lemo 2 or Aromamizer...likely not a dripper either.
I now have five (5) attys built with Nifethal 52 over a period of (?) weeks. And have used contact/spaced, pre-torched and not, dry-burned high (19W), low (7-9W), and in between (12W), with different gauges (28, 26, 24), long wicks short &etc...and other parameters.
My results do not leave me, as yet, with a fixed method of building; though I must note that my suggestion to @2legsshrt, that he followed, does seem most promising for RTAs; I just built a dual coil for the Aromamizer that turned that suggestion on its head: 28awg, contact squeezed, 12.5W dry-burned, lightly wicked.
The resulting difference from the previous Aromamizer is impressive: wicks beautifully, much better flavor & vapor.
So, what am I saying? KEEP EXPERIMENTING. [emoji6] The Grail is in sight.
And I have to say THANK YOU VERY MUCH. I'm not much into experimenting. When I find something that work very well I kinda go overboard most of the time but these coils taste so good and they are smoother then Ti. I haven't tried to dry burn one clean but I have no doubts that it will work very well making them perfect. I was really thinking of getting a DNA200 but don't think I well these coils work great on the M at TCR.00405 What is really amazing is I have to use a little more power then other wires but 400F is perfect for now. I have been trying for the perfect vape since I started in 09 and my first decent mod was of course a mech The Silver Bullett, then the GG then I got one of the first Provari VV and loved it got 7 of them of which I have sold all but 3. Then I heard about TC got a DNA40. Never could get it to work right. Finally got the SXM and with all the upgrades have been completely happy with it. I did like everyone probably and started out with nickel. Worked pretty well but was a PITA to work with, then Ti and was very happy but also it had it's PITA moments, then tried this stuff and doing it the way you said and giving it a little time to settle in it is perfect. I tried the Kanger STM and have never had any problems so got rid of my KFL's my K4 all authentics. Tried a few other things along the way but the way this wire works with my STM's and SXM's I don't think I could be happier. Found a flavoring and the best of their flavors for me for my DIYing and am in the process of loading up on that. Have used some that was 3 years old and if kept right it tasted just as good as fresh (Root Cellar) got my nic only use 3mg have a little over a liter in the freezer. I'm going to switch over 3 or 4 more tonight. So I'll leave the experimenting up to you kids and keep watching but for me this just tops off the hunt. I am pretty sure the US govenment is going to make vaping a PITA to try to get new things but I will be ready. If they don't which I doubt, we have to save the kids, I'll still be happy.
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If they do, I'm now at the point I just need wire, rayon, and juice on a regular basis, and if I needed to learn to diy or make friends in Canada or Mexico to receive orders for replacements for broken devices, that's not the end of the world.
I read a thing from CASAA which I belong that if they get the law deemed they won't be able to start right away but they do want to make all flavors that are not tobacco illegal immediately. I have a life time supply of Rayon which I don't use and you don't live close probably cost a fortune to ship it. Maybe not if I took it out of the box. I use KGD and have been very happy with that but they can't make that stuff illegal.
Also VG and PG you can get at a Tractor Supply and Walmart although a guy told me that a place in Europe is adding lavender to their VG so it can't be used for vaping.
Europe is also coming up with some one guy called the "draconion" laws against vaping. I get my flavors from Germany but they are made in Russia.
As far as the way it acts when you dry burn it. I know that it is lower in resistance so you would probably need more wraps but does it work as good as Nifethal 52 or is the 52 the best for vaping.
Well my idea worked. I wrapped a contact coil on my coilmaster with NiFe48 and then stretched it out just enough so there was space between each wrap placed it and dry burned it then compressed it with tweezers perfect coil lower resistance .202. Think I will do one more tonight then have some dinner and go to bed and think things over.
You pretty much dominated this page @2legsshrt, lol. Yer method is pretty much what I do for all my coils. It's been working great for me so far.
PS..something's telling me we better get DIY savvy with juice making if this deeming act is passed.
I failed to mention that when I removed one wrap from my NiFe48 coil in my ST I also made it slightly spaced.
The coil was pretty gunked up for the short time that it was used also. Here is my live view now using SE CSV unaltered.
The coil was pretty gunked up for the short time that it was used also. Here is my live view now using SE CSV unaltered.
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