That's a good price, might have to order... Does anyone have any experience with vaporbreak?
TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
- Thread starter TheBloke
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@TheBloke
I read resistance on both the VS 6w and the Zero 60w. Both were within .01 ohm. I had a .13 build on the Zero and my ohm meter came in at .013. On the VF I had it showing .09 and the ohm meter read .10 ohms.
VF was received on 5/30 ordered on 5/20. Zero received on 6/2, ordered on 5/25 if that helps.
Both will ask for new coil up same down if the atomizer is removed or they sit for awhile. I don't know how long the sit before the message appears, shortest time I have seen is an hour.
Hope that helps,
Sean
I read resistance on both the VS 6w and the Zero 60w. Both were within .01 ohm. I had a .13 build on the Zero and my ohm meter came in at .013. On the VF I had it showing .09 and the ohm meter read .10 ohms.
VF was received on 5/30 ordered on 5/20. Zero received on 6/2, ordered on 5/25 if that helps.
Both will ask for new coil up same down if the atomizer is removed or they sit for awhile. I don't know how long the sit before the message appears, shortest time I have seen is an hour.
Hope that helps,
Sean
Awesome, thanks @seanol
In your first line "VS 60W" meant "VF 60W" rihgt? you have two total, a VF and Zero both at 60W - not a VS as well?
So we have another user who has resistance readings checking out. This brings the total units with seemingly good resistances to three - @Shogun1024 's single Zero, and @seanol 's Zero and VF.
Then we have a lot of units from seemingly the same batch(es), both rDNA and Flask, with the usual low resistance readings. @dwcraig1 's new VF is showing at least -0.04, ditto @TheotherSteveS , and I'm sure there's more I've forgotten.
Very confusing.
@seanol so it asks New Atomizer when you leave it sitting there for an hour? That means you can't just pick it up and vape after leaving it a while? That's a damn shame as well, they've regressed to double-tap-from-sleep
Don't understand that at all. That was a plus of my batch1 Flask vs my earlier Waidea Flask.
In your first line "VS 60W" meant "VF 60W" rihgt? you have two total, a VF and Zero both at 60W - not a VS as well?
So we have another user who has resistance readings checking out. This brings the total units with seemingly good resistances to three - @Shogun1024 's single Zero, and @seanol 's Zero and VF.
Then we have a lot of units from seemingly the same batch(es), both rDNA and Flask, with the usual low resistance readings. @dwcraig1 's new VF is showing at least -0.04, ditto @TheotherSteveS , and I'm sure there's more I've forgotten.
Very confusing.
@seanol so it asks New Atomizer when you leave it sitting there for an hour? That means you can't just pick it up and vape after leaving it a while? That's a damn shame as well, they've regressed to double-tap-from-sleep
Don't understand that at all. That was a plus of my batch1 Flask vs my earlier Waidea Flask.
Also @seanol if you get a chance could you check some more resistances? Eg higher ohm coils, say a 0.30 or 0.50 or whatever you might have/be using - doesnt' have to be Ni200, any material. Check them against an independent source like ohms reader or other dual-decimal-place mod.
It's really hard to work out why a couple of people have them working and most don't - could there be three batches? @seanol and @Shogun1024 have batch3 devices somehow? So confusing.
It's really hard to work out why a couple of people have them working and most don't - could there be three batches? @seanol and @Shogun1024 have batch3 devices somehow? So confusing.
@TheBloke
Yes, sorry about that. VF 60w.
I can not vape after leaving it a while. I have to hit up or down. It is easy enough, I just hit down and go. There is no delay once I hit down and fire it.
At the office I usually go outside once an hour and have no issues. I am not sure exactly what the cut off time is really. I'll try to keep an eye on it tomorrow and see if I can nail it down closer.
Sean
Yes, sorry about that. VF 60w.
I can not vape after leaving it a while. I have to hit up or down. It is easy enough, I just hit down and go. There is no delay once I hit down and fire it.
At the office I usually go outside once an hour and have no issues. I am not sure exactly what the cut off time is really. I'll try to keep an eye on it tomorrow and see if I can nail it down closer.
Sean
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@TheBloke,
I tried a Pluem Veil dual coil build and got the following:
Zero .40
VF .40
Ohm Reader .44
All Atty's were cold. Retested the nickel builds:
Goliath spaced twisted 30g
Zero .06
VF .06
Ohm Reader .11
Subtank spaced singe 30g contact coil
Zero .12
VF .13
Ohm Meter .14
My Ohm Reader is a coilmaster from Fasttech so I made sure I could repeat the readings before recording them. I can not vouch for overall accuracy but it should be good for comparison's sake.
Only difference I can tell, all are clones except the Subtank. Only the Subtank has a sprung 510 connector. My previous tests may have had heat introduced. Everything I tested now was at room temp and has builds I have been vaping on that were good.
Thoughts?
Sean
I tried a Pluem Veil dual coil build and got the following:
Zero .40
VF .40
Ohm Reader .44
All Atty's were cold. Retested the nickel builds:
Goliath spaced twisted 30g
Zero .06
VF .06
Ohm Reader .11
Subtank spaced singe 30g contact coil
Zero .12
VF .13
Ohm Meter .14
My Ohm Reader is a coilmaster from Fasttech so I made sure I could repeat the readings before recording them. I can not vouch for overall accuracy but it should be good for comparison's sake.
Only difference I can tell, all are clones except the Subtank. Only the Subtank has a sprung 510 connector. My previous tests may have had heat introduced. Everything I tested now was at room temp and has builds I have been vaping on that were good.
Thoughts?
Sean
The subtank sprung 510 is known to be dodgy for TP use which is ironic since it looks like the most accurate!! Assuming your meter is good!
..
I am using just subtank mini's for TP
Have been really bang on accurate with SX Mini M
My builds match predicted by steam engine
Not noticed anyone else having issues with them on the SXM either
Quite the opposite really
I am using just subtank mini's for TP
Have been really bang on accurate with SX Mini M
My builds match predicted by steam engine
Not noticed anyone else having issues with them on the SXM either
Quite the opposite really
a bit OT bust just received my dicodes dani v2 extreme. Really beautiful object but the fixed 510 looks like it will be a dealbreaker for me. None of my atty's sit flush, with some the gap is ridiculous. I sort of guessed this was going to be a problem but didnt think it would be so bad. Totally spoils the overall look and in my OCDness, it really irritates me which for a £150 mod is not good... I hope I can exchange for the 2380...this sucks...
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you're getting a lower resistance, doesn't that mean you have very solid connections? From the coils to the screw posts, to the 510 pin, to the 510, to the solder joint, through the wire and to the chip set. The dna 40 on my WAEII reads a 3mm ID coil wrapped 12 times at .13 ohms. The steam engine says that I need about 9.5 wraps to get .13 ohms. I do know for a fact that all of my solder joints are the best they could be. I also know that my adjustable 510 isn't spring loaded but is adjustable so pin to pin contact is very strong. This same atty reads .16 on my vaporshark. Makes me wonder if evolv dumbed down the ohms reading for poor connections. My sx mini m reads it at .129. The sx mini has a very stiff spring loaded 510 though.
Could be the wire too. My hardened ni 200 from SV reads consistently lower than normal ni 200. With an id of 2.5mm, each wrap adds 0.01 ohm resistance instead of the 0.012 Ohms predicted by steam engine.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
I know for the original Danis there used to be washers available to take care of the gap, but I'm not sure where you would get them. I know I saw them on a site back when I was looking for my Telegonos.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
It's a general issue with the chip in the new SXK mods - every single atty, every single coil, reads lower than every other device including benchmark-accurate, expensive micro-ohm readers. It's not an accurate reading, it's always too low - and generally, the higher the base ohms, the greater the discrepancy.
This makes TC inaccurate out of the box because the starting resistance of the coil is vital for the accuracy of the final temperature reading - because the Temperature Coefficient of Resistance calculation has the base resistance as one of its elements.
You are right in one sense which is that every normal mod-to-atty connection has Static Resistance - resistance added by the atomizer and the 510 connections themselves. So if one (highly accurately) measures the resistance on the bare coil, and then measures the resistance of the resulting atomizer and build, one would expect the latter to be a bit higher.
Therefore if the SXK "too low" resistance read was only too low by a fixed, small amount - say 0.02 - it would actually be a benefit, because it would just be counteracting the static resistance found in every atomizer. Unfortunately it reads too low by increasing amounts the higher the starting resistance of the coil: By the time you get to a coil of 1.08Ω, the SXK will read it as 0.92 - a drop of 0.16Ω or 14%.
Here's the full table of readings that @balazsk did:
Real Ω - SXK Ω - Diff
1.78 Ω - 1.53 Ω - 0.25 Ω
1.27 Ω - 1.07 Ω - 0.20 Ω
1.08 Ω - 0.92 Ω - 0.16 Ω
0.90 Ω - 0.75 Ω - 0.15 Ω
0.60 Ω - 0.50 Ω - 0.10 Ω
0.42 Ω - 0.35 Ω - 0.07 Ω
0.30 Ω - 0.24 Ω - 0.06 Ω
0.20 Ω - 0.14 Ω - 0.06 Ω
0.16 Ω - 0.12 Ω - 0.04 Ω
0.10 Ω - 0.06 Ω - 0.04 Ω
So it greatly affects TC, and one needs to use my Nickel Purity / Static Resistance calculator to fix it by changing Nickel Purity settings. This does work, but is less than ideal.
Oh no, sorry man
Photo? It baffled me when I first heard they had no spring pin on such a fancy mod, and this baffles me even more. And it's not adjustable at all?
Here's @balazsk 's table of resistance readings, to which I've also added a % of innacuracy
Real Ω | SXK RΩ | Differ | Diff %
1.78 Ω | 1.53 Ω | 0.25 Ω | 13.8%
1.27 Ω | 1.07 Ω | 0.20 Ω | 15.7%
1.08 Ω | 0.92 Ω | 0.16 Ω | 14.8%
0.90 Ω | 0.75 Ω | 0.15 Ω | 16.7%
0.60 Ω | 0.50 Ω | 0.10 Ω | 16.7%
0.42 Ω | 0.35 Ω | 0.07 Ω | 16.7%
0.30 Ω | 0.24 Ω | 0.06 Ω | 20.5%
0.20 Ω | 0.14 Ω | 0.06 Ω | 28.6%
0.16 Ω | 0.12 Ω | 0.04 Ω | 25.9%
0.10 Ω | 0.06 Ω | 0.04 Ω | 40.0%
From now on I will be building coils with a real resistance of 0.42Ω - 0.90Ω, so that I can get in the lowest inaccuracy range of 16.7%
Edit: Though actually, that's not necessarily best. Because then there's also static resistance. There is an argument that it will be most accurate - at least without further adjustment at the lower end, because although 0.04 inaccuracy is a vast 40%, in fact the real inaccuracy might be as low as 0.1% (10%) because many attys have static resistance as high as 0.03Ω.
In any case using the calculator we can adjust for both low resistance and estimated static resistance, so maybe it doesn't matter too much what the starting range is as long as adjustments are made via NP.
Real Ω | SXK RΩ | Differ | Diff %
1.78 Ω | 1.53 Ω | 0.25 Ω | 13.8%
1.27 Ω | 1.07 Ω | 0.20 Ω | 15.7%
1.08 Ω | 0.92 Ω | 0.16 Ω | 14.8%
0.90 Ω | 0.75 Ω | 0.15 Ω | 16.7%
0.60 Ω | 0.50 Ω | 0.10 Ω | 16.7%
0.42 Ω | 0.35 Ω | 0.07 Ω | 16.7%
0.30 Ω | 0.24 Ω | 0.06 Ω | 20.5%
0.20 Ω | 0.14 Ω | 0.06 Ω | 28.6%
0.16 Ω | 0.12 Ω | 0.04 Ω | 25.9%
0.10 Ω | 0.06 Ω | 0.04 Ω | 40.0%
From now on I will be building coils with a real resistance of 0.42Ω - 0.90Ω, so that I can get in the lowest inaccuracy range of 16.7%
Edit: Though actually, that's not necessarily best. Because then there's also static resistance. There is an argument that it will be most accurate - at least without further adjustment at the lower end, because although 0.04 inaccuracy is a vast 40%, in fact the real inaccuracy might be as low as 0.1% (10%) because many attys have static resistance as high as 0.03Ω.
In any case using the calculator we can adjust for both low resistance and estimated static resistance, so maybe it doesn't matter too much what the starting range is as long as adjustments are made via NP.
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Hi guys! Great thread, lots of good info. Hopefully you guys can help me figure this out a bit...
I own a dicodes 2830 and I just jumped into TC yesterday. 28g ni200 coil, reading .1 ohms at room temp on a vapor giant mini 2.5. Coefficient set, temp calibrated on the mod. I've set the temp for 450 and the power to 20W.
The first couple of drags will be fine, the temp will get up between 370 and 390 something and no problem. A couple drags later and the temp is readying well over 450 and the hit is harsh and dryish. Now, I will say that this atty is new to me and I'm still working tweaking the juice control so I understand there could be wicking issues, however even with wicking issues shouldn't the TC be cutting the power once it gets to the temp threshold?
I own a dicodes 2830 and I just jumped into TC yesterday. 28g ni200 coil, reading .1 ohms at room temp on a vapor giant mini 2.5. Coefficient set, temp calibrated on the mod. I've set the temp for 450 and the power to 20W.
The first couple of drags will be fine, the temp will get up between 370 and 390 something and no problem. A couple drags later and the temp is readying well over 450 and the hit is harsh and dryish. Now, I will say that this atty is new to me and I'm still working tweaking the juice control so I understand there could be wicking issues, however even with wicking issues shouldn't the TC be cutting the power once it gets to the temp threshold?
Yeah that's not wicking issues. Or rather, if it is, then it's also TC issues - the whole point of TC is to avoid problems with dry hits. If you had wicking issues alone you would see the opposite problem - a weak vape, not enough vapour. Not dry hits.
Dry hits with TC always mean a problem with the build or the settings.
First thing to do is trying lowering the temp - maybe 420, which is the burning temp of cotton (or thereabouts.)
Second thing is check the build. In particular check you have tight, strong connections on the coil to the atty. Check nothing is loose. Check the coil has no shorts anywhere.
I had a similar issue yesterday where in my Aqua SE I kept getting dry hits and because I'm vaping on my SXK with bad resistance, I was at first sure it must be a bad setting - wrong adjusted Coefficient value. But belatedly I realised I had a bad build, I actually had a short - it was right near one end of the coil so it wasn't drastically lowering the resistance, the coil was 0.40 and it read 0.37 let's say. Not enough for me to notice it was too low (especially as the SXK is always too low.) But it was causing a hot spot on the wire in that area of the coil and burning the juice.
So yeah, check your build carefully. Tighten everything done. As you're using Ni200 you don't want any part of the coil touching any other part, or of course any part of the atty. Make sure it's screwed down tightly onto the mod, obviously being careful not to overdo it.
If need be, start again with a new build.
How are you finding your 2380? I ordered mine yesterday but it only shipped today so I won't have it for several more days, maybe next Thursday at best (it's going from Germany to the UK.)
@Arthur - also I assume you calibrated the atty before you started vaping, ensuring it was at 20°C during calibration?
It is as fixed as a fixed thing from rigid land.Whish would be great except see below..Oh no, sorry man
i packed it up already as it just p1ss1ng me off. I fail to understand how anyone OCD or not, could put up with it. I have tried 8 RTAs and 12 different drippers and I have not found any that sit flush. The problem is the 510 thread is too shallow so even if you have an adjustable 510 on the atty it doesnt matter beacsue the pin in the mod is, in my opinion, about 0.5-1.0 mm too high. A small error if I just bought it from FT as a knock off but this thing is £140 odd. I am so disappointed. I may even just pass on the whole dicodes thing......Having said that, I think you will not be disappointed with the 2380. But why in the name of all that is holy did they put a fixed 510 in this bloody thing and then set it so high that there is no flexibility?...absolutely insane!
I'm so sorry, that sounds absolutely ridiculous
I suppose they took very literally their own recommendation that it had to be 'spring' or 'gap'. Maybe they will say that a gap makes for better TC. But of course it also makes for crap appearance, and greater risk of damage on accidental knocks.
Yeah I absolutely cannot understand why they would think it acceptable to not put a spring on a £140 device. A Fat Daddy spring loaded 510 is about £4 to end users, meaning to big companies it will be <£1; or make their own for pennies. It's inexcusable.
Sorry man. So Greek Mods will accept returns easily? Will you just return for a refund right now or think about swapping for the 2380?
I suppose they took very literally their own recommendation that it had to be 'spring' or 'gap'. Maybe they will say that a gap makes for better TC. But of course it also makes for crap appearance, and greater risk of damage on accidental knocks.
Yeah I absolutely cannot understand why they would think it acceptable to not put a spring on a £140 device. A Fat Daddy spring loaded 510 is about £4 to end users, meaning to big companies it will be <£1; or make their own for pennies. It's inexcusable.
Sorry man. So Greek Mods will accept returns easily? Will you just return for a refund right now or think about swapping for the 2380?
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