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dwcraig1

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Since setting the inside of my desk drawer on fire a couple of weeks ago I was hesitant to try lighting Ti on fire.
Well I couldn't get my 26 gauge hot enough to ignite with my pen torch but I did get a real good look at titanium dioxide.
Also changed the Ti coil in my Subtank RBA from spaced to contact, much better now IMO
 

balazsk

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Isn't it 0.0060?
I think it isn't. Yesterday I recalculated the TCR of Ni200 for the list. It seems that the manual of Dicodes contains a wrong value maybe it is OK for pure nickel.
I have checked some datasheets and the result is the same: 0.0052 for the vaping range.
 
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AlaskaVaper

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@jazzvaper I will try to collect the TCR for all the known wires. :)

Stainless steel types:
317: 0.000875
316: 0.000915
304: 0.00105
430: 0.00138
410: 0.00155 - this value hasn't been verified yet

NiFe alloys:
Pernifer36(Invar): 0.00117
Resistherm(Dicodes): 0.0032
Nifethal52(NiFe48 at Zivipf): 0.00405
Nifethal70(NiFe30 at Zivipf): 0.00506

Ni200: 0.0052 (20°C-200°C)
I see where Smok has released coil heads for their TFV4 tank using silver. Nothing on the purity that I could see. Could you tell us the TCR of silver? I saw this coil posted on a Chinese vendors site.
Titanium #1: 0.0035

(Niobium: 0.0028 - not verified)
 
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balazsk

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I see where Smok has released coil heads for their TFV4 tank using silver. Nothing on the purity that I could see. Could you tell us the TCR of silver? I saw this coil posted on a Chinese vendors site.

I have made a short calculation based on this document: http://www.nist.gov/data/PDFfiles/jpcrd155.pdf
The TCR of pure silver is about 0.00394. However it has a very low resistivity, lower than nickel therefore it isn't really suitable for coils.
 

notarobot

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I just compaired the Ohm/m values of the Kanthal Nifetherm NiFe52 and the Zivipf NiFe48 and there is something wrong.

Diameter mm--------------Kanthal----------------Zivipf
0.25mm--------------------8.76 Ohm/m----------7.5 Ohm/m
0.28mm--------------------6.98 Ohm/m----------6.0 Ohm/m
0.32mm--------------------5.35 Ohm/m----------4.6 Ohm/m
0.35mm--------------------4.47 Ohm/m----------3.8 Ohm/m
0.40mm--------------------3.42 Ohm/m----------2.9 Ohm/m

So the Zivipf wire would have a 14.x % lower resistance at 20C. Strange, I will ask Thomas.

Don't know where you got those numbers for Nifethal 52, but they are wrong. From the data sheet, the resistivity at 20ºC is 0.37 Ω·mm²/m. To get the resistance per meter, devide this by the cross section (πd²/4) of a wire with diameter d. Eg for a 0.4mm wire this gives (0.37·4)/(π·0.4²) Ω/m = 2.9 Ω/m. The results are exactly the same as the numbers given for Zivipf's NiFe48 wire.
 

funkyrudi

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Don't know where you got those numbers for Nifethal 52, but they are wrong. From the data sheet, the resistivity at 20ºC is 0.37 Ω·mm²/m. To get the resistance per meter, devide this by the cross section (πd²/4) of a wire with diameter d. Eg for a 0.4mm wire this gives (0.37·4)/(π·0.4²) Ω/m = 2.9 Ω/m. The results are exactly the same as the numbers given for Zivipf's NiFe48 wire.
I got the number from the Kanthal Handbook

http://www.kanthal.com/Global/Downloads/Materials in wire and strip form/Resistance heating wire and strip/S-KA026-B-ENG-2012-01.pdf

On page 74 +75 you`ll find my "numbers". Thomas from Zivipf replied already and sent me a link from Kanthal with the Ohm mm²/m value of 0.37 , as you already wrote

http://kanthal.com/en/products/mate...heating-wire-and-resistance-wire/nifethal-52/

I calculated it for 2 wires and came to the same result as Thomas. The problem is the Databook. I don`t know how and why, but the databook shows a resitrivity of 0.43 Ohm mm²/m and this with the same compound ( 52/48).

The Handbook is from 2012 - when I interpret the numbers on the last page right - and the Datasheet is from 2013. So we can forget the databook, which was posted here several times, for NiFe52. The values for NiFe70 are right.

Sorry for the confusion.
 
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TheotherSteveS

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Since setting the inside of my desk drawer on fire a couple of weeks ago I was hesitant to try lighting Ti on fire.
Well I couldn't get my 26 gauge hot enough to ignite with my pen torch but I did get a real good look at titanium dioxide.
Also changed the Ti coil in my Subtank RBA from spaced to contact, much better now IMO

did you pulse/dry 'warm' first or just made a contact coil straight off??
 

Mad Scientist

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did you pulse/dry 'warm' first or just made a contact coil straight off??

Sorry for the off topic but I lately have started to wrap the coils on a #6 screw, mount, pulse to deep blue / purple and then shape or squeeze. So far has been easy to do and works well.

One additional benefit of using a screw is I leave the screw in and after tightening the posts use the screw as a tool to position the coil where I want it for offset posts. Very easy to position with the screw still in. Then remove screw, blue, squeeze.

Right now I only have #6-32 screws laying around and that size works fine but I'm going to pick up some #6-40 later today. For larger diameter coils, M4-70 is perfect also.
 
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BigEgo

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Sorry for the off topic but I lately have started to wrap the coils on a #6 screw, mount, pulse to deep blue / purple and then shape or squeeze. So far has been easy to do and works well.

One additional benefit of using a screw is I leave the screw in and after tightening the posts use the screw as a tool to position the coil where I want it for offset posts. Very easy to position with the screw still in. Then remove screw, blue, squeeze.

Right now I only have #6-32 screws laying around and that size works fine but I'm going to pick up some #6-40 later today. For larger diameter coils, M4-70 is perfect also.

What machine screw would give me something close to 2.5mm?
 

Mad Scientist

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What machine screw would give me something close to 2.5mm?

At least the way I wrap them, and using 26 or 28 AWG wire (wire diameter affects how deep the wire seats in the root of the thread), #6 makes a little bigger and #4 makes a little smaller than a 2.5mm ID resulting coil. I'd recommend the #6. Comes in #6-32 and #6-40. If you wrap a #4-40 "loosely" it should make very close to 2.5mm ID but I find trying to finesse a coil wrap that way just takes unnecessary time and is undesirably unrepeatable. If you can find a #5-40, that would be, for practical purposes, 2.5mm. I can't find such a screw commonly available.

An M3-50 is very close but the threads are so fine it makes it hard (for me at least) to wrap. I'm stopping at the hardware store today to get some #6-40 and I also plan to try some M3.5
 

cigatron

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I've been doing screw winds on 4-40 and 6-32 machine screws for about 18 months now. 4-40 for the smaller gauges 28-32g, 6-32 for the larger 24-28. I vape primarily nets and find that spaced coils allow for much longer wick life. They are less efficient as far as ramp up time but it's worth it to me to be able to brush between the winds after dryburning, especially with Ti.
 

Devilon

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Might be a stupid idea so ignore this if it is :D

But does anyone know if there are any ceramic rods available in 3mm or lower?
Wouldn't it then be possible to wrap the wire around these rods, set up you coil on your atty and then with the rod still inserted give the wire a few pulses.
This would then take out and springiness in the coil but letting the coil retain it's shape?
 
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Mad Scientist

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Might be a stupid idea so ignore this if it is :D

But does anyone know if there are any ceramic rods available in 3mm or lower?
Wouldn't it then be possible to wrap the wire around these rods, set up you coil on your atty and then with the rod still inserted give the wire a few pulses.
This would then take out and springiness in the coil but letting the coil retain it's shape?

Sounds like a great idea to me. A Pyrex rod might also work, less brittle and easier to find. Maybe also try oxidized aluminum rod or screw (I'm just trying to think of stuff that can take heat and won't conduct).
 
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Devilon

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Sounds like a great idea to me. A Pyrex rod might also work, less brittle and easier to find. Maybe also try oxidized aluminum rod or screw (I'm just trying to think of stuff that can take heat and won't conduct).

Glad you agree, I thought I had a brainstorming moment go totally wrong :D

Good idea about the pyrex rod though, they might be easy to get hold of :)
 
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Mad Scientist

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Glad you agree, I thought I had a brainstorming moment go totally wrong :D

Good idea about the pyrex rod though, they might be easy to get hold of :)

Give it a try. Thermal mass and thermal conductivity might be an issue but there's only one way to find out for sure. . . . :)
 

niczgreat

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My understanding is that the stock Crown SS coils are 316.
If that is true then bravo to crown.
Below is description of SS 316 same stuff they use in implants and hostile environments. Doesn't look like it would leach out in
standard juices.

316: For severe environments. Of course, there are many industrial processes that require a higher level of resistance to corrosion than Type 304 can offer. For these applications, Type 316 is the answer.
Type 316 is also austenitic, non-magnetic, and thermally nonhardenable stainless steel like Type 304. The carbon content is held to 0.08% maximum, while the nickel content is increased slightly. What distinguishes Type 316 from Type 304 is the addition of molybdenum up to a maximum of 3%.
Molybdenum increases the corrosion resistance of this chromium-nickel alloy to withstand attack by many industrial chemicals and solvents, and, in particular, inhibits pitting caused by chlorides. As such, molybdenum is one of the single most useful alloying additives in the fight against corrosion.
By virtue of the molybdenum addition, Type 316 can withstand corrosive attack by sodium and calcium brines, hypochlorite solutions, phosphoric acid; and the sulfite liquors and sulfurous acids used in the paper pulp industry. This alloy, therefore, is specified for industrial equipment that handles the corrosive process chemicals used to produce inks, rayons, photographic chemicals, paper, textiles, bleaches, and rubber. Type 316 is also used extensively for surgical implants within the hostile environment of the body.
Type 316 is the main stainless used in the marine environment, with the exception of fasteners and other items where strength and wear resistance are needed, then Type 304 (18-8) is typically used.

Type Analysis of Stainless Type 316:
Carbon 0.08% max. Silicon 1.00% max.
Manganese 2.00% max. Chromium 16.00-18.00%
Phosphorus 0.045% max. Nickel 10.00-14.00%
Sulfur 0.030% max. Molybdenum 2.00-3.00%
 
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