TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
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Ok, so I also got in some 24 gauge Ti wire from Ebay today as well. 50 ft. for $12 shipped. It comes cleaner than Unkamen's and appears shinier (the treatment is probably done differently -- I know Unkamen's is acid washed). It is a bit dirty as graphite came off on my towel, but it only took a couple of passes to clean it (Unkamen's takes me forever).
In any case, I made a 7 wrap build, spaced, 2.5mm ID in my subtank mini. Comes to .185 ohms which is within a couple milliohm accuracy compared to SE. I figured 24 gauge would be too large for my STM posts, but it actually works better than 26/28 because it feels like I can catch the wire under the screw easier (the wire is thicker so there's less space between the screw and the wire).
In any case, this is the best Ti vape I have ever had. It is smoother than my usual 26 gauge builds and is hitting the temp limit perfectly in an almost flat line. If you use Subtanks, I recommend trying 24 gauge.
Here's my device monitor. Compare it to my previous 430 SS plot:
In any case, I made a 7 wrap build, spaced, 2.5mm ID in my subtank mini. Comes to .185 ohms which is within a couple milliohm accuracy compared to SE. I figured 24 gauge would be too large for my STM posts, but it actually works better than 26/28 because it feels like I can catch the wire under the screw easier (the wire is thicker so there's less space between the screw and the wire).
In any case, this is the best Ti vape I have ever had. It is smoother than my usual 26 gauge builds and is hitting the temp limit perfectly in an almost flat line. If you use Subtanks, I recommend trying 24 gauge.
Here's my device monitor. Compare it to my previous 430 SS plot:
Most of that "rusty" looking SS is caused by oxidizing when it's heated. Now that you've been vaping on it, even though you didn't dry burn, it will have darkened. This happens with 317L & 316L too.
Well finally got a chance to wrap something up mate
Dual 6 wraps in my new Zephyrus v2 came in lowish at 0.12ohms
Vapes a real treat though, I don't have one of those analytical dna200's to prove it
But the vape feels really consistent as though its just sitting and hovering closely around set temp
Unlike previous TP builds where I can feel the throttling back
Hey, that's great QM. I just did my first 25g NiFe52 build today in a Crius Tank. Blasting away on it in vw at 65w
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
Only had 20min to build and wick it so the coil symmetry isn't perfect.
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Looks good mate
If I keep staring long enough will I see a difference in the two coils or are you yanking my chain
Looks good mate
If I keep staring long enough will I see a difference in the two coils or are you yanking my chain
Lol
Yes, 6-32 machine screw and tension wound. Turning the tool; not the wire. Perfect symmetry is easy to achieve on my winder but difficult to maintain with duals on 2 post/2 hole attys. I was in a hurry so they lean a little bit. No bigs, next time I rewick I'll straighten things up.
just read many pages-can't find information-how to pulse stainless steel coils 317L--can someone please explain?
also what is Unkamen 430? why not Unkamen 317L?
also what is Unkamen 430? why not Unkamen 317L?
Try it in Temperature Control mode from 100 Degrees Celsius,
slowly moving the temperature up by 10 Degrees Celsius up to 170-250 Degrees Celsius.
The above steps should help in pulsing, checking for hot spots and
also while cleaning the coils.
The initial wattage and temperature depend on the AWG used
anywhere from 8 Watts of 32/30 AWG to 25 Watts for 24/26 AWG.
It will also help you identify the maximum temperature you can set
for your current build without affecting the coils when you wick it with cotton.
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The symmetry looks pretty good to me. I've noticed SS is easy to work with and make evenly spaced.
430 SS is a grade without nickel in it. 304/316/317 all have around 8% nickel in them.
430 has a higher TCR, which means it's more sensitive to temperature fluctuations and better for TC mods. However, the lack of nickel, means it is less corrosion resistant. Now the question is does this matter for our application? I don't know. Probably not, but it might the longer the coil is used.
Is everyone pulsing SS in TC mode?
Mine was unsuccessful - kicked into Temp Protection mode
as one that has had doubts as to TC validity concerning SS specifically, one 1-2 mods that are supposedly rated well for SS on TC
i was not happy
So, why could you not just pulse in wattage mode first and once wicked + juiced, change to TC mode?
Mine was unsuccessful - kicked into Temp Protection mode
as one that has had doubts as to TC validity concerning SS specifically, one 1-2 mods that are supposedly rated well for SS on TC
i was not happy
So, why could you not just pulse in wattage mode first and once wicked + juiced, change to TC mode?
Of course, just after I received 317L, finally. lol
ok so, let me ask.
Finding so far, that 304 and now 317 on a moderated for TC that others claim handles well, doesnt
i'm starting to really doubt their words
if i buy this 430 SS are you suggesting an SS coil will actually work long enough to vape at least one hit without kicking into Temp Protection mode? lol
It would be nice if Mod Manufacturers changed
Temperature Protection message to
Set Temperature Reached or Achieved.
When the desired Temperature is set in a TC Mod,
it tries to reach that temperature and once reached...
it tries not to exceed the coil temperature above the set temperature.
It is similar in operation to how we set the Temperature in Air Conditioners
through Thermostats.
I pulse SS/NiFe on an old DNA40 in power mode, around 15-20 watts depending on what size wire I'm using.
Temp protection does not mean there is an error, it only means you have hit the temp limit you set it to. As the other guy said, think of it like a thermostat on your home AC unit. For example, let's assume you leave for the winter and when you come home, your house is freezing at 0C/32F. You go to your thermostat and turn it up to 20C/68F. After a while it warms the place up and then let's pretend it sounds an alarm whenever the house finally warms to 20C/68F. This is what your mod is doing. It is only letting you know your coil is at the max temp limit that YOU set it at. It is not an error, but only a reminder "Hey I am at max temp now, just letting you know" sort of thing.
And if you want to pulse SS, you will need to set it to power/wattage mode if you want to see it glow. You can't really do it in TC mode. Of course, there is debate on whether it is a good idea to pulse dry coils at all, but that's another issue.
I'm such a dweeb sometimes, that was a NiFe52 build. Edited post.
And therein lays my mistake. I was trying to pulse it in TC mode. You know, just enough to know if I had hot spots, my coils would work.
So now i see I pulse in power/wattage mode. Yes, that might get a better reaction than what I was doing it in. lol
debate - not a good idea to pulse at all? I'd like to know how they ensure their coils work perfectly?
thanks - yes I understand temp limits - mistake was pulsing in SS on lowest TC/Wattage. This is not DNA im using - might partly be the problem, cheap mod. Thx
So now i see I pulse in power/wattage mode. Yes, that might get a better reaction than what I was doing it in. lol
debate - not a good idea to pulse at all? I'd like to know how they ensure their coils work perfectly?
thanks - yes I understand temp limits - mistake was pulsing in SS on lowest TC/Wattage. This is not DNA im using - might partly be the problem, cheap mod. Thx
Too many reels of wire in your stock mate
I have been wondering if I need to get my etcher to work on my tanks
But so far I [hope] can remember what's in what ..... just
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