The insulator on the Atomic is thick enough that you can drill through it up both sides of the pin for a flush drain on the deck. I did it with mine that I had way back when....
The post needs to be pressed out of the insulator to be able to drill it.Did you take the post out to drill it? Just unscrew it from the bottom?
yay!!!I am the proud new owner of a TRA REO. Bought Used from the classies and I am in love. View attachment 583245
awwwwwwwww that's adorable!!!Good Morning Reo Loungers![]()
Just passing through to catch up with you guys,
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and wish you a great weekend![]()
hehehe I'd go for that! Then again, most of what I post would be gone.......but that wouldn't be a big dealIf they ever outlawed Bull, Washington DC would cease to exist. That might actually be a good thing....
Unless Tom has changed his policy in the last 6 mo to year......you need to contact him before sending in a clone. He pretty much stopped doing clones, but would still do a few really well made clones if you contacted him first.or you could send it to Chowderhead for a top notch job.
I've thought about it but with the future the way it looks and the number of grands I already have..I'll just stick with the grandsGood morning Reonauts! So who is gonna get another P-67 (or first one) when Rob releases more next month?
Have a great day!
Greez..that's got to be a tiny drill bit!The insulator on the Atomic is thick enough that you can drill through it up both sides of the pin for a flush drain on the deck. I did it with mine that I had way back when....
View attachment 583755View attachment 583757
yay!!!
Unless Tom has changed his policy in the last 6 mo to year......you need to contact him before sending in a clone. He pretty much stopped doing clones, but would still do a few really well made clones if you contacted him first.
i cut a channel with a dremel in my Atomics, because the stainless steel is very hard and i was worried about breaking a drill bit on the pin and not being able to get it out.
The centre pin just knocks out from the top. Before you knock it out (i used a screw to tap it out with) mark it just above the deck of the atty with a marker pen because then that gives you an idea of how far up the pin you need to make the channel for it to squonk properly.
T
Tom is doing a run of Narda and M-Atty clones right now. The Narda is a great flavor atty. IIRC he wouldn't do the Atomic because Rob was doing it, I'm pretty sure he would do it as a send in.
I am thinking it was a #55 or 1/16" Jobber Drill. I basically put the drill against the insulator at the bottom to see which size would work for going through just the insulator. I know it squonked and drained exceptionally well though. I did drill it from the top also, instead of from the bottom. It gave me a better idea as to where I wanted the drain holes in relation to where the coils were mounted. I think I used my cordless drill to drill it because the Dremel was very high rpm's. I've since bought a new Dremel that is adjustable though but haven't done any atty's in some time. Good luck with yours...Greez..that's got to be a tiny drill bit!
I've ordered a few of the cheap clones from ft... I plan to drill up through the insulator like muzichead illustrated above. Unless I'm missing something.. I won't have to knock out the pin if I do it that way.
I emailed Rob to see if he was going to restock the RM4.. he said he didn't think so. I did email Tom and he said he had one atomic left. He hasn't emailed me back with a price. If it's an original.. those are $100.. can't afford that much![]()
yeah he does do clones, I should have specified send ins. But LIS been a long time since I followed his thread, but at that time, if you wanted to send in a clone, you needed to contact him first, as he had decided to be very choosy about which clones he does. That's all I wuz sayinTom is doing a run of Narda and M-Atty clones right now. The Narda is a great flavor atty. IIRC he wouldn't do the Atomic because Rob was doing it, I'm pretty sure he would do it as a send in.
i cut a channel with a dremel in my Atomics, because the stainless steel is very hard and i was worried about breaking a drill bit on the pin and not being able to get it out.
The centre pin just knocks out from the top. Before you knock it out (i used a screw to tap it out with) mark it just above the deck of the atty with a marker pen because then that gives you an idea of how far up the pin you need to make the channel for it to squonk properly.
T
I am using the same coil on both an RM2 and Chalice III. 2.5 mm 28g. 7 or 8 wraps I think and comes close to 1.5. Lovely for me.Hey guys -
Need some help here...I continue to have trouble vaping on the REO and while I love it, I am really, really a tootle puffer! Think Protank...Anymore vapor and power and my lungs really begin to smart. I
My ideal vape is a 1.6 ohm coil and somewhere between 8-10 watts. No more.
Can anyone help recommend a build that would replicate what I am looking for? I can read the ohms calculator like anyone else, so that is not the issue. I just can't seem to get it there without building with a ton of wraps that takes a day and a half to heat up.
I have 26, 28 and 30 gauge kanthal. I also have SS 28gauge.
Thanks, all!
<<<<----- Original ProTank Queen.Hey guys -
Need some help here...I continue to have trouble vaping on the REO and while I love it, I am really, really a tootle puffer! Think Protank...Anymore vapor and power and my lungs really begin to smart. I
My ideal vape is a 1.6 ohm coil and somewhere between 8-10 watts. No more.
Can anyone help recommend a build that would replicate what I am looking for? I can read the ohms calculator like anyone else, so that is not the issue. I just can't seem to get it there without building with a ton of wraps that takes a day and a half to heat up.
I have 26, 28 and 30 gauge kanthal. I also have SS 28gauge.
Thanks, all!
If the builds mentioned don't work for you, you might want to try some SS wire. You'd still be at higher watts, but it is soooooo smooth, not hot, not harsh, but I still get throat hit. I was always building duals at 1.3 ohms which put me at 11-13 watts depending on the charge of my battery. Accidentally made .6 ohm coils with some SS 316 L and thought, well lemme try em instead of just chunkin em. Wow......I was at 30 watts and loving it! I'd never been able to sub ohm with kanthal, and didn't really care. But when I did subohm with the SS I was tasting flavors in my juice I'd never tasted before. So .5 ohm coils with SS for me now!Hey guys -
Need some help here...I continue to have trouble vaping on the REO and while I love it, I am really, really a tootle puffer! Think Protank...Anymore vapor and power and my lungs really begin to smart. I
My ideal vape is a 1.6 ohm coil and somewhere between 8-10 watts. No more.
Can anyone help recommend a build that would replicate what I am looking for? I can read the ohms calculator like anyone else, so that is not the issue. I just can't seem to get it there without building with a ton of wraps that takes a day and a half to heat up.
I have 26, 28 and 30 gauge kanthal. I also have SS 28gauge.
Thanks, all!
Hey, I'm going to go edit my post. My wire is 32ga.Hey guys -
Need some help here...I continue to have trouble vaping on the REO and while I love it, I am really, really a tootle puffer! Think Protank...Anymore vapor and power and my lungs really begin to smart. I
My ideal vape is a 1.6 ohm coil and somewhere between 8-10 watts. No more.
Can anyone help recommend a build that would replicate what I am looking for? I can read the ohms calculator like anyone else, so that is not the issue. I just can't seem to get it there without building with a ton of wraps that takes a day and a half to heat up.
I have 26, 28 and 30 gauge kanthal. I also have SS 28gauge.
Thanks, all!