The Reonauts new lounge

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muzichead

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The insulator on the Atomic is thick enough that you can drill through it up both sides of the pin for a flush drain on the deck. I did it with mine that I had way back when....
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Debadoo

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I am the proud new owner of a TRA REO. Bought Used from the classies and I am in love. View attachment 583245
yay!!!

Good Morning Reo Loungers
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Just passing through to catch up with you guys,

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and wish you a great weekend :thumb:
awwwwwwwww that's adorable!!!

If they ever outlawed Bull:censored:, Washington DC would cease to exist. That might actually be a good thing....
hehehe I'd go for that! Then again, most of what I post would be gone.......but that wouldn't be a big deal :)

or you could send it to Chowderhead for a top notch job.
Unless Tom has changed his policy in the last 6 mo to year......you need to contact him before sending in a clone. He pretty much stopped doing clones, but would still do a few really well made clones if you contacted him first.
 

donnah

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Good morning Reonauts! So who is gonna get another P-67 (or first one) when Rob releases more next month?

Have a great day!
I've thought about it but with the future the way it looks and the number of grands I already have..I'll just stick with the grands
 

donnah

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Walter Ego

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yay!!!

Unless Tom has changed his policy in the last 6 mo to year......you need to contact him before sending in a clone. He pretty much stopped doing clones, but would still do a few really well made clones if you contacted him first.

Tom is doing a run of Narda and M-Atty clones right now. The Narda is a great flavor atty. IIRC he wouldn't do the Atomic because Rob was doing it, I'm pretty sure he would do it as a send in.
 

supertrunker

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i cut a channel with a dremel in my Atomics, because the stainless steel is very hard and i was worried about breaking a drill bit on the pin and not being able to get it out.

The centre pin just knocks out from the top. Before you knock it out (i used a screw to tap it out with) mark it just above the deck of the atty with a marker pen because then that gives you an idea of how far up the pin you need to make the channel for it to squonk properly.

T
 

donnah

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i cut a channel with a dremel in my Atomics, because the stainless steel is very hard and i was worried about breaking a drill bit on the pin and not being able to get it out.

The centre pin just knocks out from the top. Before you knock it out (i used a screw to tap it out with) mark it just above the deck of the atty with a marker pen because then that gives you an idea of how far up the pin you need to make the channel for it to squonk properly.


T

I've ordered a few of the cheap clones from ft... I plan to drill up through the insulator like muzichead illustrated above. Unless I'm missing something.. I won't have to knock out the pin if I do it that way.
Tom is doing a run of Narda and M-Atty clones right now. The Narda is a great flavor atty. IIRC he wouldn't do the Atomic because Rob was doing it, I'm pretty sure he would do it as a send in.

I emailed Rob to see if he was going to restock the RM4.. he said he didn't think so. I did email Tom and he said he had one atomic left. He hasn't emailed me back with a price. If it's an original.. those are $100.. can't afford that much :oops:
 

muzichead

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Greez..that's got to be a tiny drill bit!
I am thinking it was a #55 or 1/16" Jobber Drill. I basically put the drill against the insulator at the bottom to see which size would work for going through just the insulator. I know it squonked and drained exceptionally well though. I did drill it from the top also, instead of from the bottom. It gave me a better idea as to where I wanted the drain holes in relation to where the coils were mounted. I think I used my cordless drill to drill it because the Dremel was very high rpm's. I've since bought a new Dremel that is adjustable though but haven't done any atty's in some time. Good luck with yours...

eta... You can just drill it with the pin in place. No reason to remove it. Very easy to do.
 

Rule62

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I've ordered a few of the cheap clones from ft... I plan to drill up through the insulator like muzichead illustrated above. Unless I'm missing something.. I won't have to knock out the pin if I do it that way.


I emailed Rob to see if he was going to restock the RM4.. he said he didn't think so. I did email Tom and he said he had one atomic left. He hasn't emailed me back with a price. If it's an original.. those are $100.. can't afford that much :oops:

I'm thinking the Atomic Tom has is likely a clone. I got one from him quite a while ago, and it was $45. Same as Rob charged for the RM4.
 

Debadoo

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Tom is doing a run of Narda and M-Atty clones right now. The Narda is a great flavor atty. IIRC he wouldn't do the Atomic because Rob was doing it, I'm pretty sure he would do it as a send in.
yeah he does do clones, I should have specified send ins. But LIS been a long time since I followed his thread, but at that time, if you wanted to send in a clone, you needed to contact him first, as he had decided to be very choosy about which clones he does. That's all I wuz sayin
 

K31Scout

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i cut a channel with a dremel in my Atomics, because the stainless steel is very hard and i was worried about breaking a drill bit on the pin and not being able to get it out.


The centre pin just knocks out from the top. Before you knock it out (i used a screw to tap it out with) mark it just above the deck of the atty with a marker pen because then that gives you an idea of how far up the pin you need to make the channel for it to squonk properly.

T

That's how I did my 4 Atomic fastech clones and they fill and drain perfectly. Just tap the center post out and put in a vice to cut the channel. I also cut an extra slot in the afc ring for a total of 3 big air ports for when I want lots of air flow.
 

Kh888

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Hey guys -

Need some help here...I continue to have trouble vaping on the REO and while I love it, I am really, really a tootle puffer! Think Protank...Anymore vapor and power and my lungs really begin to smart. I

My ideal vape is a 1.6 ohm coil and somewhere between 8-10 watts. No more.

Can anyone help recommend a build that would replicate what I am looking for? I can read the ohms calculator like anyone else, so that is not the issue. I just can't seem to get it there without building with a ton of wraps that takes a day and a half to heat up.

I have 26, 28 and 30 gauge kanthal. I also have SS 28gauge.

Thanks, all!
 

oplholik

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Well, I'm really a tootle puffer also and I do just fine with 30g, 2.0mm, and 7/6 wraps, should come in about 1.5-1.6Ω on a small atty like a RM2, or a Chalice.
7/6 wraps is a pretty small coil and doesn't take forever to heat up.
 

Mike Geaney

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Hey guys -

Need some help here...I continue to have trouble vaping on the REO and while I love it, I am really, really a tootle puffer! Think Protank...Anymore vapor and power and my lungs really begin to smart. I

My ideal vape is a 1.6 ohm coil and somewhere between 8-10 watts. No more.

Can anyone help recommend a build that would replicate what I am looking for? I can read the ohms calculator like anyone else, so that is not the issue. I just can't seem to get it there without building with a ton of wraps that takes a day and a half to heat up.

I have 26, 28 and 30 gauge kanthal. I also have SS 28gauge.

Thanks, all!
I am using the same coil on both an RM2 and Chalice III. 2.5 mm 28g. 7 or 8 wraps I think and comes close to 1.5. Lovely for me.
 

TwistedThrottle

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Hey Kh888. I love tootle puffing but also love rocking the clouds too! For my tootle puffing needs, I like using 30GA. Heats up fast and fewer wraps are required. I did a 2.0 ohm for my new(to me) King Tootle Puffer- a vv Woodvil under a RM2 last night. Think I spun 9 wraps loosish around 2 strands of ReadyxWick. I had a 1.8 ohm microcoil with KGD, but hated it. burned the KGD and gave off unfavorable flavorables. Now, its hard to get a dry hit and its full of flavor at about 4.5 volts. I love that RxW. For wire, I use 28 ga for 0.6-1.2 and 26 for 0.5 and lower and 30 for 1.0 and above.
 

LoriP1702

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Hey guys -

Need some help here...I continue to have trouble vaping on the REO and while I love it, I am really, really a tootle puffer! Think Protank...Anymore vapor and power and my lungs really begin to smart. I

My ideal vape is a 1.6 ohm coil and somewhere between 8-10 watts. No more.

Can anyone help recommend a build that would replicate what I am looking for? I can read the ohms calculator like anyone else, so that is not the issue. I just can't seem to get it there without building with a ton of wraps that takes a day and a half to heat up.

I have 26, 28 and 30 gauge kanthal. I also have SS 28gauge.

Thanks, all!
<<<<----- Original ProTank Queen. :lol:

I use the RM2's, with 32 ga. Kanthal, 4 wraps around an 18ga. florist wire. So, whatever mm 18ga. standard wire would be.
I get 1.4 to 1.5 ohm almost every single time....mostly 1.5's.
I lay my wick material against the wire, and wrap the 4 coils around that...for me, it saves a step having to thread the wick through the coil, and 32 is pretty fine.

I'm using rayon for my wicking. :)
 
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Debadoo

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Hey guys -

Need some help here...I continue to have trouble vaping on the REO and while I love it, I am really, really a tootle puffer! Think Protank...Anymore vapor and power and my lungs really begin to smart. I

My ideal vape is a 1.6 ohm coil and somewhere between 8-10 watts. No more.

Can anyone help recommend a build that would replicate what I am looking for? I can read the ohms calculator like anyone else, so that is not the issue. I just can't seem to get it there without building with a ton of wraps that takes a day and a half to heat up.

I have 26, 28 and 30 gauge kanthal. I also have SS 28gauge.

Thanks, all!
If the builds mentioned don't work for you, you might want to try some SS wire. You'd still be at higher watts, but it is soooooo smooth, not hot, not harsh, but I still get throat hit. I was always building duals at 1.3 ohms which put me at 11-13 watts depending on the charge of my battery. Accidentally made .6 ohm coils with some SS 316 L and thought, well lemme try em instead of just chunkin em. Wow......I was at 30 watts and loving it! I'd never been able to sub ohm with kanthal, and didn't really care. But when I did subohm with the SS I was tasting flavors in my juice I'd never tasted before. So .5 ohm coils with SS for me now!
 

LoriP1702

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Hey guys -

Need some help here...I continue to have trouble vaping on the REO and while I love it, I am really, really a tootle puffer! Think Protank...Anymore vapor and power and my lungs really begin to smart. I

My ideal vape is a 1.6 ohm coil and somewhere between 8-10 watts. No more.

Can anyone help recommend a build that would replicate what I am looking for? I can read the ohms calculator like anyone else, so that is not the issue. I just can't seem to get it there without building with a ton of wraps that takes a day and a half to heat up.

I have 26, 28 and 30 gauge kanthal. I also have SS 28gauge.

Thanks, all!
Hey, I'm going to go edit my post. My wire is 32ga.
Soooo sorry for any confusion...I should have gone and looked.
 
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