Tilemahos new rebuildable part (springomizer)

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Ariel_MX

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Did I make an error in my video I hope not I don't want to send out the wrong info Please let me know and I will correct it ASAP.

No, it is just that I did the same that mrZoSo did:

on the Tilemahos v1 AFC, you just need to remove whole v1 rebuildable part and install the springomizer (no need to swap housing).

We were thinking that maybe the same applies to the Tilemahos v1 No AFC, in this case, you only need to swap the center pin (I can't try right now because I'm at the office and I only brought the Tilemahos v1 AFC :(
 

Ariel_MX

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AdamAnd

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Exactly :)



Me too :toast:
Thanks I appreciate the kind words. If there is a better way I would like to edit my mistakes and if I ever do something incorrectly please let me know I am always ready to learn and do not want to mislead anyone Thanks Adam
 

Dontknow

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both plastics (v2 and V2+) are above their housings Dont.

Anyway, if you got V2 housing, its useless. But if you got V2 plus housing, better keep it :)
No. I meant above or below on the spares list on the ESG website. I meant to order the plastic, but clicked the housing by mistake...


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Ariel_MX

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you are at the office, you have to work and not to play gg lego :p:)

You got me ! :blush:

But it is so difficult, a new Springomizer arrived yesterday while I was at the office, I resisted and I didn't open the package, and as was late (22:30), I left the office and went home :D

I opened the package just some minutes ago :D


Today I brought to the office:

Tilemahos v1 AFC and Esterigon with 510 (no AFC) connector.
GG4S and Tilemahos v2 with Springomizer (just in case).

Tilemahos v2 rebuildable part (that I took out from the above Tilemahos v2).
Tilemahos v2+ rebuildable part (that I bought as an extra part).

Plus the new Springomizer that just arrived.


The thing is, I have been fighting with this Tilemahos v1, at some point (most of the times happens when there is not much juice left in the tank) it starts to leak by one of the air holes, I have tried every possible wicking method: wick inside the housing (nest), wick flush on channels, half wick in channels and the other half inside the housing (Bishopheals style), I have played with wick amounts, replaced the extension post o-ring, etc. etc.

So I was deciding if I should use one of the v2 rebuildable parts, but I am a very stubborn person, so I tried with its original rebuildable part and housing one more time, just washed everything and installed new wick.

Just came to my mind that maybe it is due the small cuts in the tank top cap (to release pressure when closing the tank), maybe when there is not much juice left, the air enters by that cuts and there is not negative pressure, so liquid just flow inside the cup, flooding it.

Another thing I have noticed, is that when closing the tank (v1 top cap (with inside cuts)), always some liquid comes out (that doesn't happen with the v2 top caps (with not cuts inside).

But you know how am I, I like to overthink things :D
 

Dontknow

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No, it is just that I did the same that mrZoSo did:

on the Tilemahos v1 AFC, you just need to remove whole v1 rebuildable part and install the springomizer (no need to swap housing).

We were thinking that maybe the same applies to the Tilemahos v1 No AFC, in this case, you only need to swap the center pin (I can't try right now because I'm at the office and I only brought the Tilemahos v1 AFC :(
Same does apply to v1 without air control. Just as described by Ariel.


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mrZoSo

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Thanks I appreciate the kind words. If there is a better way I would like to edit my mistakes and if I ever do something incorrectly please let me know I am always ready to learn and do not want to mislead anyone Thanks Adam
No mistakes Adam, just saying that all the housings are interchangeable with all the current Tilemahos. I'm just not 100% sure that you only need to change the pin on the non-AFC, because I don't have one, well, atleast not one that is assembled. I converted them all to AFC and all my non-AFC parts are stored away :D
 

mrZoSo

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The thing is, I have been fighting with this Tilemahos v1, at some point (most of the times happens when there is not much juice left in the tank) it starts to leak by one of the air holes,
That use to happen to me once and a while, but mine would start to gurgle first and I would just close the juice control until it stopped. Usually it happened when the wick(Koh Gen Do Organic Cotton) was old, almost a week. I got the feeling that the wick was loosing its 'holding' capabilities, getting over-saturated and juice running off it, if that makes sense.
Haven't ran in to that problem since using the newer rebuildables and switching my wick to Cotton Bacon V2.
 
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imeothanasis

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No. I meant above or below on the spares list on the ESG website. I meant to order the plastic, but clicked the housing by mistake...


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yes, we say the same buddy. At esg spares page, the plastic is above housing on both of Tilemahos. If you are sure that you got V2 housing, then you dont need it :)
 
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leemc37

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I think if you use springomizer housing with v1 non afc then you have a problem that it hits the internal collector tank and there is no lip. Someone mentioned that before. Can someone confirm they can use the springomizer housing with v1 non afc without issues?
I use the v1 non afc base and sringomizer without problems. I used the v1 pos pin and it fits perfect. It will only hit the collector tank if you try it with the v2 pin

bf800410e612d09eec69f5c633349773.jpg



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steampop

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I think if you use springomizer housing with v1 non afc then you have a problem that it hits the internal collector tank and there is no lip. Someone mentioned that before. Can someone confirm they can use the springomizer housing with v1 non afc without issues?

I can confirm you can use the V1 base with the springomizer too. As Lee said, you need to use the v1 pin, if you didn't it would seal the 510 and there would be no air.
 

Aal_

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I finally got some free time and switched out the Tilemahos V1 screws to the Springomizer.

It worked out perfectly! This new part has more contact to the wire so it hits like a beast. There is space on the side that I didn't see before inside the housing.

To be clear: The air flow is exactly the same as I had before the new part.

Pictures as promised:
The bottom of V1 and V2 housing with the channels lined up we can see the holes are different. But it doesn't matter... I thought it would affect the air flow, but it doesn't.
32f32b7bd05ce38610e59c17777b0536.jpg


With the V1 pin and the V2 housing into the Non-AFC base we can see that the V1 pin is not long enough. But it is really because the V2 housing has a lip/stopping point so I can't screw the housing all the way in. With the V1 housing I can screw it all the way into the base.
22d843128b8d362b542388f7b7af51a5.jpg

1f386ba1236634950b1467945420c8b3.jpg


Here is the new part with the V1 pin, the V1 Non-AC Base, and the V1 housing. This is how the pin should be.
a21d98d007ff11db5a242ad137a70001.jpg


I took pictures of the new part and the V1 base and you can see that there is space in between, especially on one side of the new part.
39dcff03d60383400f7944a7e2c9ea3c.jpg

02921f5302afbd5b4e06616ae85e8460.jpg

30a6602a1dbd2a12f81ca824b777a65d.jpg


A picture of the actual new part.
8b7c3a09c308f56a64b84aa5ede26074.jpg


0.5 Ohms after a test fire. I have some of the springs but I decided to go with titanium wire. Now it's rocking.
96d0af051b81a16954bc476352361ffb.jpg


It was a good day. I got the Springomizer going and I made 240 milliliters worth of juice.

HAPPY HALLOWEEN!!!
I was talking about this problem here that Sad mentioned.

So he ended up not using the springomizer housing but only springomizer internals?
 
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