Tilemahos new rebuildable part (springomizer)
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adjustable lips 
Hey Imeo, does the trick in your video to open the airflow work also with the standard tilemahos (V2 in my case) deck? I think it should as the bottom of the deck should be the same, but I want to be sure there's anything that prevents it...
Thanks
Thanks
yes it works Nb. But you have to be careful with liquid control. You have to make smaller moves per time 
yes it works Nb. But you have to be careful with liquid control. You have to make smaller moves per time
I disagree, be bold...
Big moves, then reduce down... Fiddling with small moves perpetuates muted flavour and vapour...
Really wind it open - big rewards.
If you get flooding, then reduce it back a turn or two.
Open that juice control...
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I was way too excited getting this up and running sorry for not checking ohms guys here's My first quick set up, 10 coils between posts,
Low Vapor on just gg,
repositioned the coils to 8 showing between posts with a quarter inch strip of Japanese cotton installed and wow, very nice vape. the coil was so easy to install I used a toothpick to Hold coil in place over the atomizer and just pushed straight down, congrats imeo this is a great addition to gg and is probably going to go down in the Vaping community as legendary for ease of build, I'm definitely liking it.
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Just did my first 'rebuild' of the sprigomizer! What a time saver for sure!! Cleaned the spring with a toothbrush and hot water, came out just as clean as when I received it!!
Almost felt strange not having to build a coil,,LOL
Almost felt strange not having to build a coil,,LOL
I finally got some free time and switched out the Tilemahos V1 screws to the Springomizer.
It worked out perfectly! This new part has more contact to the wire so it hits like a beast. There is space on the side that I didn't see before inside the housing.
To be clear: The air flow is exactly the same as I had before the new part.
Pictures as promised:
The bottom of V1 and V2 housing with the channels lined up we can see the holes are different. But it doesn't matter... I thought it would affect the air flow, but it doesn't.
With the V1 pin and the V2 housing into the Non-AFC base we can see that the V1 pin is not long enough. But it is really because the V2 housing has a lip/stopping point so I can't screw the housing all the way in. With the V1 housing I can screw it all the way into the base.
Here is the new part with the V1 pin, the V1 Non-AC Base, and the V1 housing. This is how the pin should be.
I took pictures of the new part and the V1 base and you can see that there is space in between, especially on one side of the new part.
A picture of the actual new part.
0.5 Ohms after a test fire. I have some of the springs but I decided to go with titanium wire. Now it's rocking.
It was a good day. I got the Springomizer going and I made 240 milliliters worth of juice.
HAPPY HALLOWEEN!!!
It worked out perfectly! This new part has more contact to the wire so it hits like a beast. There is space on the side that I didn't see before inside the housing.
To be clear: The air flow is exactly the same as I had before the new part.
Pictures as promised:
The bottom of V1 and V2 housing with the channels lined up we can see the holes are different. But it doesn't matter... I thought it would affect the air flow, but it doesn't.
With the V1 pin and the V2 housing into the Non-AFC base we can see that the V1 pin is not long enough. But it is really because the V2 housing has a lip/stopping point so I can't screw the housing all the way in. With the V1 housing I can screw it all the way into the base.
Here is the new part with the V1 pin, the V1 Non-AC Base, and the V1 housing. This is how the pin should be.
I took pictures of the new part and the V1 base and you can see that there is space in between, especially on one side of the new part.
A picture of the actual new part.
0.5 Ohms after a test fire. I have some of the springs but I decided to go with titanium wire. Now it's rocking.
It was a good day. I got the Springomizer going and I made 240 milliliters worth of juice.
HAPPY HALLOWEEN!!!
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For the v1 Tilemahos this is what I bought:
I put an extra o-ring on the v1 positive pin so it didn't go too low in the 510 for a flush connection on the Esterigon. Works perfectly
I put an extra o-ring on the v1 positive pin so it didn't go too low in the 510 for a flush connection on the Esterigon. Works perfectly
Some friends put a lot of wick inside spring and wick cant get fed well. To avoid any feeding issues, keep your wick as less as you can and cut it flush to the feeding channels. Springomizer works a little different that the way you are used to
After 10 days of using Springomizer 2,5mm and 2mm:
- I had problems with spitting the first days - but only with V2+ (white) Driptip. After changing to a normal GG Driptip, spitting had gone
- Tried the Trick for more airy Springomizer on V2+ Base and V2 Base - I like more air but I don´t like that Thilemahos starts leaking after doing that. Tried to change the wick, no effect, tried to adjust liquid control - even if it´s just open a half turn, it´s leaking. The leaking only stops if I put back the normal O-Ring. So I think there is a problem with the internal pressure after this Trick - it´s too airy and the liquid goes through the channels down to the air flow.
Is there a better solution?
- I had problems with spitting the first days - but only with V2+ (white) Driptip. After changing to a normal GG Driptip, spitting had gone
- Tried the Trick for more airy Springomizer on V2+ Base and V2 Base - I like more air but I don´t like that Thilemahos starts leaking after doing that. Tried to change the wick, no effect, tried to adjust liquid control - even if it´s just open a half turn, it´s leaking. The leaking only stops if I put back the normal O-Ring. So I think there is a problem with the internal pressure after this Trick - it´s too airy and the liquid goes through the channels down to the air flow.
Is there a better solution?
The juice coming out of the tip, and leaking out of the bottom, sounds like you are not using enough wicking material.
There should be resistance when you pull it through the spring, but not enough resistance to move the coils of the spring.
Too much wick = dry hit from poor wicking
Not enough wick = flooding from over wicking
When you do the trick Imeo shows with the bigger o-ring in the base the juice channels are lower down so the atty wicks more efficiently because the juice doesn't have to travel as far up.
Play around with different amounts of wick until you find the right amount for the juice you are using. Thicker VG heavy juice needs less wick then a high PG juice.
Thank you steampop. But I know how to wick for my 50/50-juice.
It´s not the wick. I´ve changed it many times to figure out the best way.
Liquid will take the easiest way down and i my case it is not the way through the wick. There seems to be another way. That´s why I wrote that it stops when I put back the original O-Ring to the pin. Even if I use a smaller O-Ring on the pin, I can screw down the rebulidable part to the same level (channels are lower down) and there will be no flooding.
So removing the pins O-Ring changes the pressure inside the Tank and may cause flooding. So maybe there is something more to change... I think about the Topcap-O-Ring for more negative pressure inside the tank.
It´s not the wick. I´ve changed it many times to figure out the best way.
Liquid will take the easiest way down and i my case it is not the way through the wick. There seems to be another way. That´s why I wrote that it stops when I put back the original O-Ring to the pin. Even if I use a smaller O-Ring on the pin, I can screw down the rebulidable part to the same level (channels are lower down) and there will be no flooding.
So removing the pins O-Ring changes the pressure inside the Tank and may cause flooding. So maybe there is something more to change... I think about the Topcap-O-Ring for more negative pressure inside the tank.
The V1 came with an o-ring that went on the rebuildable part, maybe try that and see if it helps.
It will fit on any version of the rebuildables, here's a pic of it on a V2+
It will fit on any version of the rebuildables, here's a pic of it on a V2+
Interesting that although we have done the same thing, yours leaked and mine didn't. What could be the difference I wonder?
Anyway, I hope you figure it out
Dark, did you buy the 2mm version? Maybe you can buy the 2,5mm center post if you have trouble with the second method for more airy Tilemahos?
Also, if you have trouble with wicking, you can change housings with V2 housing that has 4mm channels
Also, if you have trouble with wicking, you can change housings with V2 housing that has 4mm channels
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