Titanium wire, vaping and safety
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OK thanks.
Short grub screw was what I tried first in my Ubertoot, but the thread didn't go down far enough. The reason was that the lower part of the screw was reverse threaded so that another screw could come up from the base. So now I'm coming up from the base to create my 'floor'. I hit the same problem in reverse - that the thread only went part way - so I dremel'd the end of my M2.5 screw to remove the screw thread from it. That gave me part screw, part flattened tube, which I cut to length so it made a floor in the post hole.
Just a point of correction, the original screws aren't brass. lol
I've had both mine apart numerous times for cleaning, just never thought to replace those screws with longer ones.
Just a point of correction, the original screws aren't brass. lol
I've had both mine apart numerous times for cleaning, just never thought to replace those screws with longer ones.
I'm referring to the screws in the underside, that come up into the posts from the bottom. Not the post screws themselves (stainless steel M2.5 grub screws)
This is the underside of the base, you can see the two post screw holes and the airhole. At the bottom is one of the original screws that I unscrewed from the underside of the base, and in the base you can see one of my replacement brass screws - a longer screw that I can get to go up to the floor of the wire holes in the posts.
If you're talking about the same screws, then they sure look brass to me
Maybe your clone is different?I'm referring to the screws in the underside, that come up into the posts from the bottom. Not the post screws themselves (stainless steel M2.5 grub screws)
This is the underside of the base, you can see the two post screw holes and the airhole. At the bottom is one of the original screws that I unscrewed from the underside of the base, and in the base you can see one of my replacement brass screws - a longer screw that I can get to go up to the floor of the wire holes in the posts.
If you're talking about the same screws, then they sure look brass to me
Ahhhh, I have authentic Toots (F5ing was very kind to me twice lol). There's where the confusion was!
The authentic v2's have stainless screws, not sure what the v1's had.
Ohh wow, you're one of the sacred 25? I hope you are keeping it in good condition, to pass down to your grandchild, and his grandchild after him
Ohh wow, you're one of the sacred 25? I hope you are keeping it in good condition, to pass down to your grandchild, and his grandchild after him
Hah I don't know about 25! My SNs are 006 and 136.
I'm wildly guessing there's around 200-300 v2 Toots out in the wild currently. I really wish there were a lot more, I'd love to recommend them to other vapers all the time but I can't justify the flipper prices they attract second-hand.
They'll be kept nice and pretty (well as "pretty" as well loved and used attys can be haha) by me for quite a long time.
Ahh OK, so 25 was a bit of an exaggeration. Still, yes it is a shame he has made no more.
I really like my v2 clone. I had literally never heard of this atomizer until a week or so ago, when I happened to see it amongst a list of clones. Watched Todd's review of the genuine and gave it a go. I really like it, so much I've already ordered my second. I'd definitely buy an authentic v3 if he ever comes out with one, or even a v2 if he does a new batch.
The only downside has been the razor post holes, but I expect that to be fixed in about 15 minutes Just finishing up my second underside screw now.
I really like my v2 clone. I had literally never heard of this atomizer until a week or so ago, when I happened to see it amongst a list of clones. Watched Todd's review of the genuine and gave it a go. I really like it, so much I've already ordered my second. I'd definitely buy an authentic v3 if he ever comes out with one, or even a v2 if he does a new batch.
The only downside has been the razor post holes, but I expect that to be fixed in about 15 minutes
Just finishing up my second underside screw now.
I hope he does do a v3. The only big ommission for me is the lack of top fill. And I feel he could add it pretty easily. With that added, it would be perfect, one of my favourite attys I think.
Yeah there are a few things Pete could change for a v3, but I believe he still has plans to produce quite a few more of the current version first. It's just slow as it's a hobby for him, he already has a full-time job.
Top fill doesn't concern me. I grabbed two Christian Munoz bell caps for the Toots, and love 'em! So no top filling for me!
Okay, enough from me on that atty, we've side-tracked from the thread topic. LOL
And I need sleep...
@TheBloke Have you done any testing on that Sweet Spot wire yet. Just wondering if it is all hype. I know it isn't cheap but have my doubts if it all that. I'm just happily vaping my Crazy Wire. I think they are the ones that said their wire is so good it can be used with Mechs. Yikes
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Yep I just read their speel on it and they say it can be used on Mechs and TC mods.
Normal Titanium can be used on a mech as well, one just has to be careful not to get a completely dry wick. The rising resistance of a heated coil will automatically lower the power of the vape on a mech: a basic, natural form of TC. But I don't think it would be sufficient to prevent the coil burning out if it gets completely dry.
SSV have a big label on their packaging "DO NOT DRY BURN", so they have the exact same issue - no surprise as it's basically just Titanium.
No I haven't tried it, and have no immediate plans to do so. They have put out a lot of spiel with a lot of seemingly technical discussion in it. This has been put to our resident experts, most particularly Duane (@druckle ) a Titanium engineer of decades of experience. He says it's all nonsense.
So my current expectation is that it's highly-priced snake oil. This is not the first time this has happened with vaping wire. There is a wire called G Plat (not sure if that's also the name of the company.) Some months ago, before my time in the vaping community, people started to get excited about their wire. Back then everyone was using Kanthal, no TC. It seemed to offer an interesting alternative to Kanthal - it had a slightly lower resistance, it was easier to work with. Most of all, it was different. And sure it cost $1/foot / £2.50 per metre, but if it was good, so what?
And it was good. No surprise because it was simply Stainless Steel 316 welding wire - also available to vapers for a few dollars per hundred metres.
I believe that caused a bit of a scandal when it was found out, though sadly I see the wire still being offered in a few places.
Currently my belief is that SSV is an equivalent to that. It's the GPlat of the TC world. They've taken Titanium, thrown some pixie dust over it, written a lot of garbage, and are now fleecing people for $1/foot.
Now I must admit I have had shreds of doubt about this. I've seen SSV on the DNA 200 forum, and he's shown pictures of all his lab gear (or at least, pictures of lab gear!), talked a bit about technical things beyond my personal experience (DC power supplies, wire testing gear, and so on), and seemed to be working hard to work with Evolv to help him construct a TCR profile for the wire. So I got the impression there was something there - that it definitely wasn't purely like the GPlat example, of slapping a high price and a fancy name on basic wire.
But the fact that the spiel they put out is, to an expert, obvious garbage rather negates all of that. So for now we have to assume it's just smoke and mirrors. Maybe some time I'll take one for the team and pay £20 to get some to the UK and test it. But I have more than enough other stuff that I need to test first
PS. Regarding the DNA 200 forum, and SSV talking nonsense, an amusing incident: I haven't been back to that forum for some time, but vapealone linked to a thread at one point a few weeks ago. I read it, and noticed an incidental exchange between SSV and John of Evolv. The discussion was about the TCR curves that eScribe, the DNA 200 software, shows on screen. SSV was asking questions about 'metrics', a term he seemingly used to describe 'points on a graph' or something like that.
John smacked him down with something like: "Metric has no meaning in a mathematical context. Please use well understood technical terms. You're a nice guy and I appreciate we need to help you get a custom TCR curve for your wire, but you're on my forum and my patience for bamboozling is small and getting smaller."
What John said, and in particular referring to 'bamboozling', struck me as further proof of SSV being consistently disingenuous - or just plain ignorant of actual science/technology. John was clearly referring to a series of such exchanges with SSV that had lead him to finally lose patience. Coincidentally I read that just a day after we last talked about SSV and talked about the bizarre stuff they have in their general Titanium blurb, and I thought it must be yet more proof that SSV is full of the proverbial
SSV have a big label on their packaging "DO NOT DRY BURN", so they have the exact same issue - no surprise as it's basically just Titanium.
No I haven't tried it, and have no immediate plans to do so. They have put out a lot of spiel with a lot of seemingly technical discussion in it. This has been put to our resident experts, most particularly Duane (@druckle ) a Titanium engineer of decades of experience. He says it's all nonsense.
So my current expectation is that it's highly-priced snake oil. This is not the first time this has happened with vaping wire. There is a wire called G Plat (not sure if that's also the name of the company.) Some months ago, before my time in the vaping community, people started to get excited about their wire. Back then everyone was using Kanthal, no TC. It seemed to offer an interesting alternative to Kanthal - it had a slightly lower resistance, it was easier to work with. Most of all, it was different. And sure it cost $1/foot / £2.50 per metre, but if it was good, so what?
And it was good. No surprise because it was simply Stainless Steel 316 welding wire - also available to vapers for a few dollars per hundred metres.
I believe that caused a bit of a scandal when it was found out, though sadly I see the wire still being offered in a few places.
Currently my belief is that SSV is an equivalent to that. It's the GPlat of the TC world. They've taken Titanium, thrown some pixie dust over it, written a lot of garbage, and are now fleecing people for $1/foot.
Now I must admit I have had shreds of doubt about this. I've seen SSV on the DNA 200 forum, and he's shown pictures of all his lab gear (or at least, pictures of lab gear!), talked a bit about technical things beyond my personal experience (DC power supplies, wire testing gear, and so on), and seemed to be working hard to work with Evolv to help him construct a TCR profile for the wire. So I got the impression there was something there - that it definitely wasn't purely like the GPlat example, of slapping a high price and a fancy name on basic wire.
But the fact that the spiel they put out is, to an expert, obvious garbage rather negates all of that. So for now we have to assume it's just smoke and mirrors. Maybe some time I'll take one for the team and pay £20 to get some to the UK and test it. But I have more than enough other stuff that I need to test first
PS. Regarding the DNA 200 forum, and SSV talking nonsense, an amusing incident: I haven't been back to that forum for some time, but vapealone linked to a thread at one point a few weeks ago. I read it, and noticed an incidental exchange between SSV and John of Evolv. The discussion was about the TCR curves that eScribe, the DNA 200 software, shows on screen. SSV was asking questions about 'metrics', a term he seemingly used to describe 'points on a graph' or something like that.
John smacked him down with something like: "Metric has no meaning in a mathematical context. Please use well understood technical terms. You're a nice guy and I appreciate we need to help you get a custom TCR curve for your wire, but you're on my forum and my patience for bamboozling is small and getting smaller."
What John said, and in particular referring to 'bamboozling', struck me as further proof of SSV being consistently disingenuous - or just plain ignorant of actual science/technology. John was clearly referring to a series of such exchanges with SSV that had lead him to finally lose patience. Coincidentally I read that just a day after we last talked about SSV and talked about the bizarre stuff they have in their general Titanium blurb, and I thought it must be yet more proof that SSV is full of the proverbial
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In lieu of using the "cut the wire with the screw until your hand falls off" method you may be able to find some stainless rod that sill fit down the hole. Then it's just a question of cutting it to the right length.
I'm currently doing my third Fogger V6 and it is a little tedious but I want that Fogger for the low tank DNA40 I built.
I'm currently doing my third Fogger V6 and it is a little tedious but I want that Fogger for the low tank DNA40 I built.
Thanks for all that. It's what I thought and my Crazy wire even with the shipping was far cheaper and work well for me. With shipping I got 20m or 64ft for 25 USDNormal Titanium can be used on a mech as well, one just has to be careful not to get a completely dry wick. The rising resistance of a heated coil will automatically lower the power of the vape on a mech: a basic, natural form of TC. But I don't think it would be sufficient to prevent the coil burning out if it gets completely dry.
SSV have a big label on their packaging "DO NOT DRY BURN", so they have the exact same issue - no surprise as it's basically just Titanium.
No I haven't tried it, and have no immediate plans to do so. They have put out a lot of spiel with a lot of seemingly technical discussion in it. This has been put to our resident experts, most particularly Duane (@druckle ) a Titanium engineer of decades of experience. He says it's all nonsense.
So my current expectation is that it's highly-priced snake oil. This is not the first time this has happened with vaping wire. There is a wire called G Plat (not sure if that's also the name of the company.) Some months ago, before my time in the vaping community, people started to get excited about their wire. Back then everyone was using Kanthal, no TC. It seemed to offer an interesting alternative to Kanthal - it had a slightly lower resistance, it was easier to work with. Most of all, it was different. And sure it cost $1/foot / £2.50 per metre, but if it was good, so what?
And it was good. No surprise because it was simply Stainless Steel 316 welding wire - also available to vapers for a few dollars per hundred metres.
I believe that caused a bit of a scandal when it was found out, though sadly I see the wire still being offered in a few places.
Currently my belief is that SSV is an equivalent to that. It's the GPlat of the TC world. They've taken Titanium, thrown some pixie dust over it, written a lot of garbage, and are now fleecing people for $1/foot.
Now I must admit I have had shreds of doubt about this. I've seen SSV on the DNA 200 forum, and he's shown pictures of all his lab gear (or at least, pictures of lab gear!), talked a bit about technical things beyond my personal experience (DC power supplies, wire testing gear, and so on), and seemed to be working hard to work with Evolv to help him construct a TCR profile for the wire. So I got the impression there was something there - that it definitely wasn't purely like the GPlat example, of slapping a high price and a fancy name on basic wire.
But the fact that the spiel they put out is, to an expert, obvious garbage rather negates all of that. So for now we have to assume it's just smoke and mirrors. Maybe some time I'll take one for the team and pay £20 to get some to the UK and test it. But I have more than enough other stuff that I need to test first
PS. Regarding the DNA 200 forum, and SSV talking nonsense, an amusing incident: I haven't been back to that forum for some time, but vapealone linked to a thread at one point a few weeks ago. I read it, and noticed an incidental exchange between SSV and John of Evolv. The discussion was about the TCR curves that eScribe, the DNA 200 software, shows on screen. SSV was asking questions about 'metrics', a term he seemingly used to describe 'points on a graph' or something like that.
John smacked him down with something like: "Metric has no meaning in a mathematical context. Please use well understood technical terms. You're a nice guy and I appreciate we need to help you get a custom TCR curve for your wire, but you're on my forum and my patience for bamboozling is small and getting smaller."
What John said, and in particular referring to 'bamboozling', struck me as further proof of SSV being consistently disingenuous - or just plain ignorant of actual science/technology. John was clearly referring to a series of such exchanges with SSV that had lead him to finally lose patience. Coincidentally I read that just a day after we last talked about SSV and talked about the bizarre stuff they have in their general Titanium blurb, and I thought it must be yet more proof that SSV is full of the proverbial
Yeah I think this is the ideal solution, a solid single piece rather than wire fragments. In my Ubertoot I first tried something similar: cutting a small section of grub screw and screwing it down to hopefully form a floor.
However the Ubertoot is quite unique in that its posts are double-threaded, with the top threaded for the post screw and the bottom threaded for a separate, underside screw that holds the posts to the base, and forms the positive path to the 510. Therefore from the top I couldn't get down nearly far enough to form a floor.
This enabled a different way: I screwed the floor in from the underneath. I ground down the end of an M2.5 x 12mm screw, such that I had in effect a 6mm brass tube on the end of a 6mm screw. I screwed that in from the bottom, in place of the original M2.5 x 6mm screws, and it gave me a nice flat floor. (I've written up the Ubertoot fix in this post, for any Ubertoot UTA v1 or v2 users interested in fixing what I now call "the Slasher"
)I can't imagine that applies to too many other atomizers though. Others might have enough thread to allow screwing down a part-screw, or yeah just drop a rod down there. Rod may well be better actually, because it could enable use of copper or even silver
Though it depends how the positive post connects to the 510 as to whether that will reduce resistance enough to be worth bothering with. I'm certain my brass screw in the Ubertoot has lowered my resistance versus the original connection via stainless post only, but I haven't measured the exact difference yet.There are lots of metric width rods available on eBay, at least in the UK/EU. If for example the post hole is M2.5, an M2 rod would fit snugly.
I also wondered about trying solder - drop some lengths of solder down the hole, heat until they melt up to the right level. It's a pretty permanent solution of course. And would require that either the positive doesn't use a plastic/rubber insulator, or that it can be removed first. (Or I suppose some PEEK insulators might be able to withstand 200°C or so, just enough to get the solder melted.) But a rod is probably a lot easier!
Back to ultrasonic baths for a moment: I just did a couple of tests to see if an ultrasonic with dish detergent could clean Titanium wire, enabling bulk cleaning and avoiding the need for manual cleaning with alcohol/wet cloth.
TLDR result: No, it can't
Test 1:
Test 2:
TLDR result: No, it can't
Test 1:
I cut 45cm of Stealth 24G and attached each end to either side of the ultrasonic basket, such that it was suspended between, no parts of the wire touching any other part or the sides of the basket or cleaner.
I ran it in the ultrasonic for 10 minutes using an existing bowl of degassed water + dish detergent.
The water was at 30°C at the start of the ultrasonic, about 35°C at the end.
I took the wire out of the water and left it standing long enough to dry before testing its cleanliness with a rub on a wet wipe.
Result: No cleaning achieved. Definitely as much residue wiped off as normal.
I ran it in the ultrasonic for 10 minutes using an existing bowl of degassed water + dish detergent.
The water was at 30°C at the start of the ultrasonic, about 35°C at the end.
I took the wire out of the water and left it standing long enough to dry before testing its cleanliness with a rub on a wet wipe.
Result: No cleaning achieved. Definitely as much residue wiped off as normal.
Test 2:
Stealth 24G, new 15cm cut of wire. Same water.
This time I turned on the heater before the test such that the water was 55°C at the start. I then ran the ultrasonic for 20 minutes. The water was 65°C by the end.
Result: It's possible there was a very small reduction in residue compared to normal, but it's hard to tell. In any case, it certainly required further cleaning and so the ultrasonic served no useful purpose.
Oh well! This time I turned on the heater before the test such that the water was 55°C at the start. I then ran the ultrasonic for 20 minutes. The water was 65°C by the end.
Result: It's possible there was a very small reduction in residue compared to normal, but it's hard to tell. In any case, it certainly required further cleaning and so the ultrasonic served no useful purpose.
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