That's what I was thinking, a blob of solder in the hole. They make a silver based solder for high-end audio equipment. It's super conductive and seems to have a lower melting point compared with regular solder.
Titanium wire, vaping and safety
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That's what I was thinking, a blob of solder in the hole. They make a silver based solder for high-end audio equipment. It's super conductive and seems to have a lower melting point compared with regular solder.
Oh yeah, I forgot about that silver solder!
Very interesting, particularly if it has a lower melting point.
Very interesting, particularly if it has a lower melting point.
I wonder how pure it is and what's in there besides silver. Pure silver doesn't have a lower melting point than solder I think?
It's however an splendid idea to use in my next build. I wonder how better the resistance reading will be using silver solder on the connections between a board (like the dna 200) and a 510 connector.
Regards
Tony
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I was mistaken about the melting point of silver solder vs regular solder. Looking at this UK vendor Cup Alloys - Low Temp Silver Solder - www.cupalloys.co.uk ,
it appears that "low temp" silver solder has a lower melt pt. vis-a-vis other types of silver solder, not regular solder.
I only used it once to help a friend replace a resistor in his hi-end audio amp. He insisted that we needed to use this expensive silver solder which felt much softer than regular solder. Those audio nuts are really over the top. Speaker wires 2 inches thick, iron bricks to "soak up stray RF radiation", etc.
Reading a lot of good stuff about the ubertoot. I use a kayfun lite, how is vapor and flavor compared to it? Where are you guys ordering the clones from?
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Yeah it'd be interesting if it made a measurable difference. Though one nice thing about the DNA 200 is that it doesn't matter - through eScribe you can enter the 'mod resistance', so whatever the resistance of the wiring/510, you can program it into the chip such that it's automatically removed from all resistance readings/TC calculations.
A nice feature. But it did make me wonder if all self-built DNA 40 and SX350J mods are automatically slightly less accurate than the pre-built professional mods using the same chips, because hopefully manufacturers were able to enter the static mod resistance into the chip (or at least pass the figure to the chip company to enter it for them), where end users were not. I don't know about Yihi, but it sounds like the sort of thing that Evolv would have enabled for their big customers, evidenced by them having the feature exposed in the 200.
Actually it'll also be an interesting way to see how thorough a DNA 200 manufacturer is - if one buys a pre-built 200, check if they entered a mod resistance value in eScribe. If they didn't, they suck
If you're going to use solder to fill post holes I'd suggest using plumbing style solder. At least is it "safe" in terms of its' chemistry. It does have a higher melting point which actually isn't a bad thing although vaping occurs at temps lower than most solder melt points anyway.
By plumbing style solder do you mean standard 60/40 Tin/Lead? Or is there something different for plumbing?
At the moment I have multi-core 60/40 Loctite solder in 0.5m, and some no-brand multi-core 60/40 in 1mm.
I doubt lead will be used in anything that remotely enters the human body. Much likely lead free
Regards
Tony
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Regards
Tony
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Plumbing solder, here in the States, is lead free, Bloke.
I just received my first Ti wire and I have a couple of questions.
I have Spider Silk. It says it's specially cleaned. Does that mean I don't need to clean it with alcohol before use?
More importantly, can Ti be tension wound? I use an artistic coil winding gizmo for my kanthal coils. Should I bother using it for the Ti or will it just snap it?
I have Spider Silk. It says it's specially cleaned. Does that mean I don't need to clean it with alcohol before use?
More importantly, can Ti be tension wound? I use an artistic coil winding gizmo for my kanthal coils. Should I bother using it for the Ti or will it just snap it?
Any wire should be cleaned, at least a basic cleaning, before use.
As far as you fancy tension winder, give it a go. Worst case you waste a few inches of wire.
As far as you fancy tension winder, give it a go. Worst case you waste a few inches of wire.
I tension wrap my Ti coils but mostly just from habit. I tension wrapped Ni coils too because they seemed to handle being fit on the atty better than non tension coils. When I moved to Ti, I just went straight to the gizmo and didn't try anything else. I've convinced myself they'll hold up better to vigorous cleaning this way but I have no proof as I've not tested it.
I use a Kuro Coiler most of the time - does that count as 'tension wrapping', or is that something different?
Bloke,
I don't know if what he uses counts as a tension winder either???
But here is a picture: Amazon.com - Artistic Wire Coiling Gizmo(R) Deluxe Winder for Jewelry Making - Jewelry Making Supplies
George,
Oh wow, that thing looks hardcore
So what does count as tension winding? I mean isn't any winding 'tension'? We hold the wire tight while pulling out around a drill bit or whatever else. Is there a way of putting lots more tension on it than that?
I suppose that actually my Kuro doesn't really put that much tension on, certainly not as much as I could by hand pulling the wire tight. But it doesn't seem to make any difference to the resulting diameter of a Titanium coil, so I stick with the Kuro.
So what does count as tension winding? I mean isn't any winding 'tension'? We hold the wire tight while pulling out around a drill bit or whatever else. Is there a way of putting lots more tension on it than that?
I suppose that actually my Kuro doesn't really put that much tension on, certainly not as much as I could by hand pulling the wire tight. But it doesn't seem to make any difference to the resulting diameter of a Titanium coil, so I stick with the Kuro.
I've heard some discussion of "tension coils" but I'll be damned if I can understand what's magic about them. Is the benefit only related to contact coils? I could use some education that's for sure.Oh wow, that thing looks hardcore
So what does count as tension winding? I mean isn't any winding 'tension'? We hold the wire tight while pulling out around a drill bit or whatever else. Is there a way of putting lots more tension on it than that?
I suppose that actually my Kuro doesn't really put that much tension on, certainly not as much as I could by hand pulling the wire tight. But it doesn't seem to make any difference to the resulting diameter of a Titanium coil, so I stick with the Kuro.
Duane
Oh wow, that thing looks hardcore
So what does count as tension winding? I mean isn't any winding 'tension'? We hold the wire tight while pulling out around a drill bit or whatever else. Is there a way of putting lots more tension on it than that?
I suppose that actually my Kuro doesn't really put that much tension on, certainly not as much as I could by hand pulling the wire tight. But it doesn't seem to make any difference to the resulting diameter of a Titanium coil, so I stick with the Kuro.
Bloke, I don't think that gadget could put much tension on anything. It's a gadget for making jewelry.
I don't know what they are trying to accomplish either Duane, the only thing I can see that it might do is overcome the tendency of un-annealed wire to spring open to a larger diameter than the mandrel.
But if you hold on to the dog end with the tool that Bloke uses I could see that putting a fair amount of stretch to the wire i.e. tension at least enough to deal with the lack of annealing.
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