Titanium wire, vaping and safety

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TheotherSteveS

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Ever have one of those days? I was vooping my low tank DNA40, my favorite "around the house" mod, with a Fogger V6 on it and it went south, like to cut my throat with the burn and harshness. I had just rebuilt it with twisted 30 gauge Ti and it was doing a great job a 30 watts, then BAM! Lowered the power down to 15 watts and still cut my throat. Now, keep in mind the last set of coils, 28 gauge not wrapped, lasted about two months.

So, into the office and checked it out. Sure enough one wire had broken off at the post. So, I tore it apart, cleaned some more 30 gauge, ran downstairs and twisted it up, came back up and whipped up two more coils. Installed the first one fine, but the second one ended up broken at a coil post.

Got ...... and ripped them out. Cleaned some more 28 gauge and whipped up some six wrap coils out of frustration. Again, the first one went in fine but the second one snapped at a post, the same post. I'm a slow learner at times, LOL.

YiLoong over drills the holes under the wire hole and that makes them into guillotines. I stuff those over drills with wire, but this one post must have settled or changed somehow with use. I ended up re-stuffing the thing and now am back to untwisted 28 gauge coils, until I rebuild it again.

i feel your pain, I really do...! Something I have never really understood. If modders/manufacturers are going to skimp on the engineering, dont do it on the bits of the device that hold the coil...just dont!
 

JimScotty0

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Ever have one of those days? I was vooping my low tank DNA40, my favorite "around the house" mod, with a Fogger V6 on it and it went south, like to cut my throat with the burn and harshness. I had just rebuilt it with twisted 30 gauge Ti and it was doing a great job a 30 watts, then BAM! Lowered the power down to 15 watts and still cut my throat. Now, keep in mind the last set of coils, 28 gauge not wrapped, lasted about two months.

So, into the office and checked it out. Sure enough one wire had broken off at the post. So, I tore it apart, cleaned some more 30 gauge, ran downstairs and twisted it up, came back up and whipped up two more coils. Installed the first one fine, but the second one ended up broken at a coil post.

Got ...... and ripped them out. Cleaned some more 28 gauge and whipped up some six wrap coils out of frustration. Again, the first one went in fine but the second one snapped at a post, the same post. I'm a slow learner at times, LOL.

YiLoong over drills the holes under the wire hole and that makes them into guillotines. I stuff those over drills with wire, but this one post must have settled or changed somehow with use. I ended up re-stuffing the thing and now am back to untwisted 28 gauge coils, until I rebuild it again.
Yeah, last night! lol
 

Rockwell222

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Just got a bunch of 32 34 and 36 gauge kanthal so I've been going to town making titanium fused claptons. I convinced my wife to try a fused Clapton in one of her rdas and when she vaped it and gave me that look. That holy crap where have these been my whole vaping life kinda look lol. Now in her 8 rdas she has all claptons. And I'm happy because I fit some claptons in my new v3 crius. It's a good night when the wife is happy. ;)
 
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pbanj

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Rockwell222

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That wire you sent me the link to is the way to go. I have about 8 spools of that along with some other brands but I always go back to that wire. The 24g is shiny like normal kanthal and the 26g and up has a matte type of finish. It is surprisingly a pretty clean wire and works perfect on my DNA 200's and other TC devices. You should be more than happy with it.
 
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3alouka

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I have this $4.71 Ti Grade 1 Titanium Heating Wire for Rebuildable Atomizers - 26 AWG / 0.4mm*10m at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping and some from unkamem and I like the fasttech ti better. It's pretty clean, it's not springy at all, and works well. I'm pretty sure it's the only ti on ft that says it's actually g1. I stopped using the unkamem ti.

That wire you sent me the link to is the way to go. I have about 8 spools of that along with some other brands but I always go back to that wire. The 24g is shiny like normal kanthal and the 26g and up has a matte type of finish. It is surprisingly a pretty clean wire and works perfect on my DNA 200's and other TC devices. You should be more than happy with it.

That was very helpful, thank you.
 
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tchavei

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A way to solve the cutting through wire post problem is to stuff some silver wire down in the well so that the screw can't go past the horizontal hole where you attach your coil.

I had similar problems on my mutation until I stuffed those holes with some sterling silver wire I had lying around. Problem solved.
 

cigatron

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At least somebody is seeing the light [emoji14]

I just dropped by to inform that my 24awg coil experience is still very limited. I only built one single coil... 7th August and I've been using it 24/7 since then (I don't even have another atomizer, excluding two drippers I use once a week maybe during a 10 min vape session).

This coil is almost 4 months old and no hint of failure or change in resistance. :)

Dang it Tony, you beat me! I killed my oldest 24g Ti coil yesterday when I accidentally dryburned it at 45w. Whoops. I've had it going since late August.:( Oh well, build new and reset timer I guess:-x
 

3alouka

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Dang it Tony, you beat me! I killed my oldest 24g Ti coil yesterday when I accidentally dryburned it at 45w. Whoops. I've had it going since late August.:( Oh well, build new and reset timer I guess:-x

When your Ti coil gets all gunked up and it's time to re-wick, and as you guys have been rocking the same coil for months now, how does one properly clean a Ti coil before re-wicking?
 
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tchavei

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I'm using the method from our Hungarian friend.

On a dna 200, I set the 8th profile to a TCR of. 007 (double than real Ti tcr) and temperature to 300C (which will be actually around 550-600C). I then happily pulse the coil which will glow dark orange to burn off the crud without oxidizing the coil too much (no white powder).

Working great :)
 

jj6404

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At least somebody is seeing the light [emoji14]

I just dropped by to inform that my 24awg coil experience is still very limited. I only built one single coil... 7th August and I've been using it 24/7 since then (I don't even have another atomizer, excluding two drippers I use once a week maybe during a 10 min vape session).

This coil is almost 4 months old and no hint of failure or change in resistance. :)

4 months? I assume you have re-wicked it, right? So how do you clean your titanium coils when you re-wick them?
 
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jj6404

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I'm using the method from our Hungarian friend.

On a dna 200, I set the 8th profile to a TCR of. 007 (double than real Ti tcr) and temperature to 300C (which will be actually around 550-600C). I then happily pulse the coil which will glow dark orange to burn off the crud without oxidizing the coil too much (no white powder).

Working great :)

So do you rinse the coils/rda with water before/during/after these pulses as well like with Kanthal coil cleaning?
 
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GeorgeS

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  • May 31, 2015
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    My Ti equipped tanks were no longer hitting well so yesterday I cleaned and rewicked both my Ti builds.

    The coils did not actually look as bad as some I've torn into but after removing the wick and mounting on a Reliant (I wanted to avoid the SX350J chips have that 'dry coil' feature) with a TCR of 72 and temp of 400-500F I let the low glow burn off any gunk before rinsing with cold water and rewicking.

    Gee unless I snap the leads off at the capture screws or simply want to try a different build I don't see how/why my Ti coils won't last years with the current use-clean-rewick-use cycle. I used 24AWG on both these coils so they are rather "sturdy" and could withstand multiple cycles.
     

    GeorgeS

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    So when you burn, rinse, you burn again to vaporize the water, right?

    Not really. A few quick shakes removes any excess water and whatever is left is not enough to worry about (let alone it will be absorbed by the wick and overwhelmed by the priming)

    BTW: if you get carried away and develop some dioxide on your coils, it rinses right off with tap water.
     

    3alouka

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    Any idea about this particular wire's recommended TCR on a Smok X Cube 2?
    I have this $4.71 Ti Grade 1 Titanium Heating Wire for Rebuildable Atomizers - 26 AWG / 0.4mm*10m at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping and some from unkamem and I like the fasttech ti better. It's pretty clean, it's not springy at all, and works well. I'm pretty sure it's the only ti on ft that says it's actually g1. I stopped using the unkamem ti.

    That wire you sent me the link to is the way to go. I have about 8 spools of that along with some other brands but I always go back to that wire. The 24g is shiny like normal kanthal and the 26g and up has a matte type of finish. It is surprisingly a pretty clean wire and works perfect on my DNA 200's and other TC devices. You should be more than happy with it.
     
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