Titanium wire, vaping and safety

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druckle

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OMG....I just watched the latest Grimm Green Vlog and he was quoting the Stealth folks and saying don't use titanium wire because it can catch on fire. HEY WORLD...we vapers use Li ion batteries and an idiot can cause them to blow up. That same idiot can cause a titanium fire. This sort of flat out statement without even a modicum of thought or explanation drives me mad. Here we go again.... THE ANTI-vaping ANTHEM.......the batteries blow folks heads off, kanthal wire gives off Cr VI poison ,Ni wire gives off poison that causes cancer, Ti wire will burn your face off vaping makes kids turn to tobacco.

We are inundated with ignorance. I want to punch the wall!!

Duane
 

Quantum Mech

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OMG....I just watched the latest Grimm Green Vlog and he was quoting the Stealth folks and saying don't use titanium wire because it can catch on fire. HEY WORLD...we vapers use Li ion batteries and an idiot can cause them to blow up. That same idiot can cause a titanium fire. This sort of flat out statement without even a modicum of thought or explanation drives me mad. Here we go again.... THE ANTI-VAPING ANTHEM.......the batteries blow folks heads off, kanthal wire gives off Cr VI poison ,Ni wire gives off poison that causes cancer, Ti wire will burn your face off vaping makes kids turn to tobacco.

We are inundated with ignorance. I want to punch the wall!!

Duane
Someone has told him & directed him here :thumb:
 

awsum140

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How's it go...we the unknowing led by the uneducated....

I just did a build in a Fogger V6, my second titanium build. After going to school on the build in the ErlK, I oxidized the wire in voltage mode on the Invader. Got it nice and blue at 12 watts, pulsing. I had pre-measured one ohm pieces so I just wrapped seven turns around my trusty 12 gauge needle, about 2.8mm. It nets out at .36 ohms. I wicked it up with rayon using the, dubiously named, "double insertion" method to make sure the coil was nice and snug. I'm vaping away at 25 watts and indicated 300F and finally really enjoying both TC and titanium. Great flavor and vapor!

In the "interest of science", and to test the Invader's temperature sensing, I did test with water before I did the build on single coils on the V6. One being Ni200 and the other Grade 1 Titanium. After taking copious notes, ohms, wraps, resistance, power, ambient temperature (which was kind of warm at about 82F), wind direction, gravimetric readings, sun light output and which way the grass was growing I found out that an indicated 200F boiled water on both coils. Go figure. I guess that's the hazard of a less expensive mod that's a clone of a better chipset. 200F is as low as the Invader can go.
 

tchavei

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How's it go...we the unknowing led by the uneducated....

I just did a build in a Fogger V6, my second titanium build. After going to school on the build in the ErlK, I oxidized the wire in voltage mode on the Invader. Got it nice and blue at 12 watts, pulsing. I had pre-measured one ohm pieces so I just wrapped seven turns around my trusty 12 gauge needle, about 2.8mm. It nets out at .36 ohms. I wicked it up with rayon using the, dubiously named, "double insertion" method to make sure the coil was nice and snug. I'm vaping away at 25 watts and indicated 300F and finally really enjoying both TC and titanium. Great flavor and vapor!

In the "interest of science", and to test the Invader's temperature sensing, I did test with water before I did the build on single coils on the V6. One being Ni200 and the other Grade 1 Titanium. After taking copious notes, ohms, wraps, resistance, power, ambient temperature (which was kind of warm at about 82F), wind direction, gravimetric readings, sun light output and which way the grass was growing I found out that an indicated 200F boiled water on both coils. Go figure. I guess that's the hazard of a less expensive mod that's a clone of a better chipset. 200F is as low as the Invader can go.
Curiously, the dna 40 also marks both at 212F.

Your minimum set temperature might be 200F but the mod should be able to regulate lower when needed.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
 
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TheotherSteveS

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OMG....I just watched the latest Grimm Green Vlog and he was quoting the Stealth folks and saying don't use titanium wire because it can catch on fire. HEY WORLD...we vapers use Li ion batteries and an idiot can cause them to blow up. That same idiot can cause a titanium fire. This sort of flat out statement without even a modicum of thought or explanation drives me mad. Here we go again.... THE ANTI-VAPING ANTHEM.......the batteries blow folks heads off, kanthal wire gives off Cr VI poison ,Ni wire gives off poison that causes cancer, Ti wire will burn your face off vaping makes kids turn to tobacco.

We are inundated with ignorance. I want to punch the wall!!

Duane

You know he is a good guy in the sense that he is active in promoting vaping etc but technically he is absolutely clueless sometimes about the gear he is using. Jst find a review where he wraps a coil etc. It is too funny....Sorry Grimm!! I love you really :)

You kmow someone should point out that the stealthvape garbage is based on a test with some crappy grade 12 pseudo Ti wire that was misused and in a non-TP situation. That cr@p was the reason I started this thgread in the first place and we have all come a long way since those halcyon days (like a couiple of months ago lol). Surely he must see that Ti is entering the mainstream now with Joyetech et al offering Ti-friendly mnods and premade heads. He is just being a dick but the problem is more people watch his vlog than read threads like these (if there are any others...). I despair sometimes..
 
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TheBloke

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Guys quick question, earlier you were talking about using pure water for water tests - R0 or RO or somtehing?

Anyway, does this fit the bill? 1 X 250ml PURE DISTILLED DE-IONISED WATER~FLIP TOP CAP | eBay

1 x 250ml Pure Distilled De-ionised Water

Comes with hinged flip top cap

Water is processed by running over a an ion exchange resin bed then through a 5 micron filter
 
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druckle

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Guys quick question, earlier you were talking about using pure water for water tests - R0 or RO or somtehing?

Anyway, does this fit the bill? 1 X 250ml PURE DISTILLED DE-IONISED WATER~FLIP TOP CAP | eBay

1 x 250ml Pure Distilled De-ionised Water

Comes with hinged flip top cap

Water is processed by running over a an ion exchange resin bed then through a 5 micron filter
Sure you can use that water no problem....but I used RO water in my little tests because I figured someone would complain if I didn't. The amount of solute in any normal tap water isn't going to change the boiling point very much. Use the water you mentioned and even the most picky among us will leave you alone. :)

Duane
 

awsum140

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Yeah, I put in a whole house filter, we have heavy manganese problems, and added the five stage as an afterthought for drinking water. The tap water is fine, too, but the RO water is so close to distilled it's amazing. The tap water shows around 100ppm particulant by the way with nothing more than a chlorine injector and a green sand filter.
 

druckle

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Yeah, I put in a whole house filter, we have heavy manganese problems, and added the five stage as an afterthought for drinking water. The tap water is fine, too, but the RO water is so close to distilled it's amazing. The tap water shows around 100ppm particulant by the way with nothing more than a chlorine injector and a green sand filter.
100ppm would almost pass for distilled in Arizona. My tap water is 500 ppm. It's dissolving the limestone mountains and flowing directly into the cities pipes.

Duane
 

Quantum Mech

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Guys quick question, earlier you were talking about using pure water for water tests - R0 or RO or somtehing?

Anyway, does this fit the bill? 1 X 250ml PURE DISTILLED DE-IONISED WATER~FLIP TOP CAP | eBay

1 x 250ml Pure Distilled De-ionised Water

Comes with hinged flip top cap

Water is processed by running over a an ion exchange resin bed then through a 5 micron filter


Sure you can use that water no problem....but I used RO water in my little tests because I figured someone would complain if I didn't. The amount of solute in any normal tap water isn't going to change the boiling point very much. Use the water you mentioned and even the most picky among us will leave you alone. :)

Duane

I am not so sure Duane

That flip top cap has me worried & think its got to have a threaded BSI rated cap meself :facepalm:
 
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TheotherSteveS

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I have no idea, Tony. The stated low temp is 200 and the stated high is 600. Personally, I would think that an upper limit of 450 or 500 would be plenty and help keep people "out of trouble", but that's just me.
nah. That wouldnt work. I often run kanger ni heads at 520 to get any kind of warmth in the vape. Its not 520 really of course. I have run them dry and no burning. It is all so dependent on the build/airflow/juiceflow/day of the week...and the kangers are particularly bad in the most part..
 

TheotherSteveS

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Guys quick question, earlier you were talking about using pure water for water tests - R0 or RO or somtehing?

Anyway, does this fit the bill? 1 X 250ml PURE DISTILLED DE-IONISED WATER~FLIP TOP CAP | eBay

1 x 250ml Pure Distilled De-ionised Water

Comes with hinged flip top cap

Water is processed by running over a an ion exchange resin bed then through a 5 micron filter

Tom,

I can mail you some 18 MOhm water if you like. About as pure as it gets lol!
 

awsum140

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That's another problem, the lack of accurate readings by the mods, especially the clone stuff. Heads like the Kanger, with their questionable contact, could easily make things wander way off during any given drag. I'm convinced that sticking with a rebuildable, with screw terminals I can make sure are tight on a regular basis, are the only way to go.
 
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Quantum Mech

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That's another problem, the lack of accurate readings by the mods, especially the clone stuff. Head like the Kanger, with their questionable contact, could easily make things wander way off during any given drag. I'm convinced that sticking with a rebuildable, with screw terminals I can make sure are tight on a regular basis, are the only way to go.

I have been using subtank mini's which have performed well for me, not noticed anyone having issues either

Like that you can wrap the wire right around the screw heads in a U shape to ensure good contact

Was using Ni200 ok & now Ti :thumb:

Have opted for a tank with many reported issues of jumping ohms now the kayfun v4

Been working fine with Ti too ... ohms have checked the same now for over 36hrs with 5 tanks gone through it without any hiccups :nun:
 

awsum140

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I'm talking about pre-built heads where the wire connection relies on the silicon washer and center pin in the base. Then, that screws into the atomizer base and make yet two more connections. At least those are under some fair pressure and get "wiped" as the parts are screwed together. I've seen too many variations in resistance in that style atomizer using Kanthal, like an ohm and more. It doesn't take a whole heck of a lot of variations to mess a TC system up pretty good.
 
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