Titanium wire, vaping and safety

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tchavei

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so duzz Milk^^^^^^^^^^^^
Yeah and paint, tooth paste, hypoallergenic soap, sun lotion and everything that is remotely 'white'

I just thought the pill was interesting because I know some people swallowing them daily for like 15-20 years which makes you wonder :)
 

TheotherSteveS

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Yeah and paint, tooth paste, hypoallergenic soap, sun lotion and everything that is remotely 'white'

I just thought the pill was interesting because I know some people swallowing them daily for like 15-20 years which makes you wonder :)
i guess eating it is no problem, its breathing it in that might be the issue - same with juice flavourings all of which are FDA approved for eating/drinking! The paint thing is interesting though
since millions of people have breathed in some form of TiO2 dust after sanding down a painted white wall for example...
 

tchavei

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I'm not concerned.

Well actually I am concerned about the negative effect that TiO crap has on people that would like to try out Ti but won't because of the things they read and then go dry burn their nickel coil...

I did an experiment last night with my Ti wire. I needed to use a small blow torch and drive the wire to a bright white color until I could see Ti dioxide forming. When torched to orange, it just starts showing rainbow colors. No dioxide forms.

I'm pretty sure that if you hold a 15cm long ti wire horizontal and pass laterally with a blow torch, it will anneal much quicker (wire starts bending down thus moving away from the flame) than it forming TiO2.

If you wash and scrub it afterwards, there won't be no TiO2 and you have a softer wire to make your coil.
 

sando7

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could be wrong who really knows from everything i've read about it, that it is so called safe until it reaches a certain heat level of 800f and above and then the Ti dioxide becomes toxic to us....as far as i'm concerned i consider it safe well at least safe as any other wire we use, just my :2c:

i have not seen any kind of build-up of anything on my wire other than jooze gunk, which is easily removed when re-wicking.

edit: i bought my grade#1 here in the USA and it looks different than the stuff i looked at on the German site, mine is not shiny and it's easy to work with.
 
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HolmanGT

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could be wrong who really knows from everything i've read about it, that it is so called safe until it reaches a certain heat level of 800f and above and then the Ti dioxide becomes toxic to us....as far as i'm concerned i consider it safe well at least safe as any other wire we use, just my :2c:

i have not seen any kind of build-up of anything on my wire other than jooze gunk, which is easily removed when re-wicking.

edit: i bought my grade#1 here in the USA and it looks different than the stuff i looked at on the German site, mine is not shiny and it's easy to work with.

Sando,

"as far as i'm concerned i consider it safe well at least safe as any other wire we use" - The concerns you mentioned are also common to Ni200 albeit over the last couple of months folks have drifted away form discussing it as potential hazardous at higher temperatures.
the G#1 wire i bought is 99.7% pure and i believe the main use it is sold for is for making jewlery, that's about all i know about it.

On the Grade 1 I also seen a few comments about it also being used in medical applications. I do know that a lot of Jewelers carry a line of Titanium rings and other jewelry for people that have sensitivities to other metals such as Nickel - "Go - Figure".
 
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sando7

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this is just me,....... i'm going to continue to use it and i feel reasonably safe w/it until i find out different.....we need some studies on using this wire for our application.

imho, anything is better than chain smoking ciggs for over 35 yrs, which i did and it's been almost 1-1/2 yrs since i had one, so i'm comfortable w/using the Ti.
 

TheotherSteveS

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so I have done as much research on this as anyone probably . I have messed around dry burning the stuff to destruction etc etc. I have a background in biochemical research and run a research group in a large medical research institute (now the largest in europe!). For what its worth I am happy using it on a decent TP device. No worse than nickel for sure. Need to be careful but that is true of using any type of wire. Again, its better than smoking...by a very, very long way! Ti-me to vape!
 
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Marc411

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I just built the RDA deck on my Subtank with the 24ga TI and man for a $39 tank it rocks. .21Ω at 310° and the flavor is outstanding.

I've looked for an answer and maybe it's just me but does the TI have less refinement on any TL device you put it on? I get almost no movement. What causes so much drift on the Ni200 and almost nothing on the Ti?
 

Rossum

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II've looked for an answer and maybe it's just me but does the TI have less refinement on any TL device you put it on? I get almost no movement. What causes so much drift on the Ni200 and almost nothing on the Ti?
I suspect two factors are at play here:
1) The higher resistance of the coil. This means stray resistances between the board and the coil are of a factor.
2) The ability to make and maintain more solid connection between the atty and the coil with Ti than with Nickel.
 

Rossum

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I don't think gold is a good choice. Ignoring its cost for a moment, it's got less than half the resistivity of nickel, only about half the TCR, (titanium is closer to 2/3), and it's softer too. What people like about titanium is that it's got higher resistivity and better hardness/toughness than nickel.
 
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HolmanGT

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I suspect two factors are at play here:
1) The higher resistance of the coil. This means stray resistances between the board and the coil are of a factor.
2) The ability to make and maintain more solid connection between the atty and the coil with Ti than with Nickel.

Rossum,

How about dimensional changes in Ni200 with temperature? Seema to me I read something about that but can't remember also I don't know what that would be for Ti but purely a gut feeling that Ti has far less dimensional change with temperature. Boy this is all guess work I should have looked it up before broaching this topic.

Anyway if Ni200 has high dimensional changes with temperature that opens it up for all kinds of real change in resistance and mechanical connection resistive changes.

Purely subjective on my part - "F" for failure to properly research this. Ugh!
 

Rossum

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How about dimensional changes in Ni200 with temperature? Seema to me I read something about that but can't remember also I don't know what that would be for Ti but purely a gut feeling that Ti has far less dimensional change with temperature.
Yes, titanium has a a lower Thermal Coefficient of Expansion than nickel as well. I suspect this (along with Ti's better mechanical properties) plays into titanium's ability to maintain more solid connections with the atomizer.
 
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HolmanGT

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Oh Holman, stop thinking and just build the damm Ti coil :D

I bet you will love it ;)

Tony,

I did, I do - It worked great. I did have to torch it a little it was just too springy. After annealing it was pretty easy to coil. I wound a 3mm non touching 0.36 ohm coil (about 5 wraps).

I put it on my ERLk and it produced a nice warm vape at approximately 20 watts. The only problem was I put it on my ERLk and as usual it leaked like a sieve so I will build one today on one of my Lemos. I should have known better the ERLk has always given me trouble with leaking and I swear if you want trouble use an Atty with a 510 connector air path. I have never liked my ERLk since the day I got it. The underside of terminal screws have a slightly beveled underside which makes it hard to capture the wire.

Anyway I will build another or transfer the one from the ERLk to a Lemo and give it another go.

Now for the questions I had the TP @ 400 F and 20 watts. The temperature indicated a max temperature rise of 360 F but I have no idea what those temperatures really represent. How do you know what the temperature numbers mean?

PS - send me the dimensions of your ERLp tank tube and if the glass one I have is correct I will send it to you. The rest of the ERLk is going in the trash. :pervy:
 

tchavei

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Tony,

I did, I do - It worked great. I did have to torch it a little it was just too springy. After annealing it was pretty easy to coil. I wound a 3mm non touching 0.36 ohm coil (about 5 wraps).

I put it on my ERLk and it produced a nice warm vape at approximately 20 watts. The only problem was I put it on my ERLk and as usual it leaked like a sieve so I will build one today on one of my Lemos. I should have known better the ERLk has always given me trouble with leaking and I swear if you want trouble use an Atty with a 510 connector air path. I have never liked my ERLk since the day I got it. The underside of terminal screws have a slightly beveled underside which makes it hard to capture the wire.

Anyway I will build another or transfer the one from the ERLk to a Lemo and give it another go.

Now for the questions I had the TP @ 400 F and 20 watts. The temperature indicated a max temperature rise of 360 F but I have no idea what those temperatures really represent. How do you know what the temperature numbers mean?

PS - send me the dimensions of your ERLp tank tube and if the glass one I have is correct I will send it to you. The rest of the ERLk is going in the trash. [emoji14]ervy:
I hope you cleaned the wire after torching it to death [emoji14]

You need a bit of magic to wick a erlk. Knowing how to stuff a Thanksgiving turkey helps :D

That and the special dance while running naked around the table that you keep refusing to do lol.

I appreciate the offer but unless it's a nano sized glass, I won't use it anyway (I don't use my erlp in normal mode).

I suppose you have a clone. Do you know which one it is?

Regarding the bottom air draw... Yeah that could be improved BUT if it meant increasing height, I'd rather keep the current system.

Tony

Ps: 350F is around 440F-450F
 

HolmanGT

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I hope you cleaned the wire after torching it to death [emoji14]

You need a bit of magic to wick a erlk. Knowing how to stuff a Thanksgiving turkey helps :D

That and the special dance while running naked around the table that you keep refusing to do lol.

I appreciate the offer but unless it's a nano sized glass, I won't use it anyway (I don't use my erlp in normal mode).

I suppose you have a clone. Do you know which one it is?

Regarding the bottom air draw... Yeah that could be improved BUT if it meant increasing height, I'd rather keep the current system.

Tony

Ps: 350F is around 440F-450F

"special dance while running naked around the table" - I always do that regardless of what I am rebuilding. Doesn't everyone? :blush:

I didn't torch it to death just until it hollered for mercy. Yes I cleaned it actually I used a Brillo Soap pad (fine steel wool) and pulled the wire thru it several times and rinsed it good and clean. To tell you the truth I am not all that concerned about a little Ti oxide. Heck I am even so carefree and reckless I drive behind 18 wheeler trucks - "I love the smell of Diesel in the morning - It smells like victory" (Apocalypse Now, paraphrase).

Tony - one of these days just say yes to one of my offers if for no other reason than to shock me. It is a clone but the glass tank I bought was from IBTanked it was specially made to fit the "real thing" and it fits like a glove. Yes mine is full size and holds about 35 gallons of juice so I guess it would be of much use to you anyway but that is the only thing getting you off the hook. :rolleyes:
 

druckle

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"special dance while running naked around the table" - I always do that regardless of what I am rebuilding. Doesn't everyone? :blush:

I didn't torch it to death just until it hollered for mercy. Yes I cleaned it actually I used a Brillo Soap pad (fine steel wool) and pulled the wire thru it several times and rinsed it good and clean. To tell you the truth I am not all that concerned about a little Ti oxide. Heck I am even so carefree and reckless I drive behind 18 wheeler trucks - "I love the smell of Diesel in the morning - It smells like victory" (Apocalypse Now, paraphrase).

Tony - one of these days just say yes to one of my offers if for no other reason than to shock me. It is a clone but the glass tank I bought was from IBTanked it was specially made to fit the "real thing" and it fits like a glove. Yes mine is full size and holds about 35 gallons of juice so I guess it would be of much use to you anyway but that is the only thing getting you off the hook. :rolleyes:


George:

I tried Tony's naked dance with the ERLP and it worked for me. Actually I found that it mostly slowed down the leak so that there was just a little flooding of the chamber which can be vaped away pretty quick. I have to admit that I take care to fill really quickly and I hold a big wad of paper towel over the bottom of the device just in case. If the ERL folks designed a catch basin into their atomizers like most other tank folks I'd be all over it.

I also don't like the basic idea of the air supply coming from the 510 connection but the reason I put up with the ERLP is that the thing gives me the best vape of any tank I've tried and I've tried a LOT of them.

As of today I only have 24 gauge titanium wire and that is just a little too big to catch well under the ERLP screws. I've tried it on a Magma and it does indeed give a fantastic vape. I have some finer wire coming and I'm eager to marry titanium with my new favorite tank. That might be the thing that finally stops me from searching for the perfect vape. (Until the ERL folks give in and put a catch tank under their little toys). :D

Duane
 
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