Titanium wire, vaping and safety

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TheBloke

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I got absolutely nowhere my my non-contact - it's probably cheaper than yours, but it was absolutely useless. I think I once got a reading of 250°F on coil that was probably at 400+°F. Other times it's said daft things like 150°F. It said in the manual that reflective surfaces can mess it up, so I guess the bare coil could do that. Maybe it would have more luck with cotton in there.

I'm way behind with my thermocouple testing but I do plan to test the Kangxin Mini VF soon, which is the same chip as your Heatvape, so results there should be indicative of yours.
 

awsum140

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Mine is a fairly expensive one, I used it to monitor surface temperature when force drying clear coats on car bumpers. I'm sure it's not "lab standard" but it might be fairly close and its focal point/measuring point is actually pretty precise. I've used it when cooking, LOL, and it seemed to be fairly accurate there. I'll give it a shot and report the results.
 
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TheotherSteveS

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Are you using 100°F lower on your Heatvape, @awsum140 ?

On the dna 40 it's between 80 and 100°F lower, depending on the target temp you want (80°F lower if you are targeting 390°F, 100°F lower if you're targeting 450°F).

I had thought that for non-dna 40 mods it was more like 150°F lower - but I haven't verified that yet. That's just what I've heard eg from Quantum on his Mini M. But it will vary with mod quite probably.
Im running an atlantis with RBA head built with Ti at 350F on the Invader and its still pretty cool vape! I was running the Ni heads at around 500F!
 
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jks89

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Im running an atlantis with RBA head built with Ti at 350F on the Invader and its still pretty cool vape! I was running the Ni heads at around 500F!

I'm hovering around 350 with both my Zephyrus (RTA) and Delta II (stock Ti coils). With nickel I was more in the 490-low 500s region.

I'm way behind with my thermocouple testing but I do plan to test the Kangxin Mini VF soon, which is the same chip as your Heatvape, so results there should be indicative of yours

Very interested!
 

awsum140

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Well, I tried my IR thermometer and that was a waste of effort. The best reading I got was 189F with the Invader set at 280F. So much for that idea. I think the target area needs to be a little bigger for IR to work properly. The other problem is holding everything steady enough with such a small target area.

I also conducted some experiments with cleaning titanium. I started by wiping with an isopropyl pad. I was getting lots of blackish crud on that after multiple, eight or ten, wipes. Then I ran it through an abrasive pad, industrial grade Scotch Brite, for half a dozen wipes. Then I wiped it with PGA and that came off basically clean. The secret seems to be the abrasive.

When I tempered the wire I only used enough power to get a slight wisp of smoke and really didn't get any color change at all. I wrapped eight turns on a 14 gauge needle and duals came in at .216 ohms in a Fogger V6. It's vaping very nicely at 280F.
 
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druckle

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Well, I tried my IR thermometer and that was a waste of effort. The best reading I got was 189F with the Invader set at 280F. So much for that idea. I think the target area needs to be a little bigger for IR to work properly. The other problem is holding everything steady enough with such a small target area.

I also conducted some experiments with cleaning titanium. I started by wiping with an isopropyl pad. I was getting lots of blackish crud on that after multiple, eight or ten, wipes. Then I ran it through an abrasive pad, industrial grade Scotch Brite, for half a dozen wipes. Then I wiped it with PGA and that came off basically clean. The secret seems to be the abrasive.

When I tempered the wire I only used enough power to get a slight wisp of smoke and really didn't get any color change at all. I wrapped eight turns on a 14 gauge needle and duals came in at .216 ohms in a Fogger V6. It's vaping very nicely at 280F.
I've also found there's a real benefit of using an abrasive. Whatever the wire drawing lubricant is it's pretty adherent. I think part of that comes from the fact that most manufacturers don't change the wire drawing tool all that often and it gets "dull" When they do that the wire surface is a little more rough which means stuff sticks in the little hills and valleys more. It's no big deal to use a little abrasive on the wire and I do it for everything now.
I also do the same as you with the little bit of heating. There still seems to be a whif of something organic left over even after all the cleaning. Short low power pulses and no glow seems to do the job.

Duane
 

jks89

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tchavei

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I feel so left out! That link doesn't want to work for me. It's like my work computer knows I'm trying to avoid being productive on this Friday afternoon...
Here man, dont want you to feel left out :)

uploadfromtaptalk1435348070708.jpg


Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
 
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