the SV wire is significantly less springy that the CW. I got the 26g and it is very good but, as you say, expensive!
I just received one of my stealthvape orders (the one with the DNA200 is on its way

the SV wire is significantly less springy that the CW. I got the 26g and it is very good but, as you say, expensive!
the SV wire is significantly less springy that the CW. I got the 26g and it is very good but, as you say, expensive!
You have to go lower on temperature. About 80-100F for start.I just got my Ti from StealthVape as well. I have a couple of questions.
What's the best way to go about it on a DNA40? I might just have to push the Temperature up a bit compared to Ni200 right?
And in terms of maintenance, how do you go about when you need to change wicks? With Ni200, since you can't dry burn ever at all, I just brush it with an old toothbrush and what not and try to manually clean it as much as I can.
I just got my Ti from StealthVape as well. I have a couple of questions.
What's the best way to go about it on a DNA40? I might just have to push the Temperature up a bit compared to Ni200 right?
And in terms of maintenance, how do you go about when you need to change wicks? With Ni200, since you can't dry burn ever at all, I just brush it with an old toothbrush and what not and try to manually clean it as much as I can.
My advice would be to clean ANY wire even if others say the wire comes in a totally clean condition. I rinse with detergent and alcohol wipe always.I have previously tried nickel and it taste funny no matter what I have tried, the past few months Ive went back and only used kanthal.Im at it again and need a little guidance, I placed an order for some 26ga titanium wire to try on my VS rDNA40. I basically need to know the ins and outs of using Ti, I know about the temp difference between nickel but should I clean it with rubbing alcohol before using? Any other tips or tricks?
I plan on using it with kayfun V4s as well as subtank mini RBA and only in a simple spaced single coil with rayon. Thanks for any and all help,sorry but couldnt read all 105 pages,too confusing.
I'm not sure IPA has a high enough alcohol content to clean anything. Damn good to drink on a hot summer day, though.I don't go as far as detergent, but always do wipe with IPA (either little swabs purchased pre-soaked with IPA, or else just spraying my own IPA from a bottle onto paper towel.)
Duane has both. I'm sure he will chime in here soon to give a comparison.Has anyone compared stealthvape to unkamen supplies to wire? I'm guessing no given USA vs U.K. Maybe I'll grab some when I go back over to see my family.
Also. Where can I find some factual data on titanium wire , oxidization, etc? Is there a resource with singular authority for vaping? I've read a lot of concern. And then a lot of eh it's fine..but all opinions where I'd rather read the data
Right now there's a lot of confusion about usage , cleaning, temp tolerances, grades, etc. this thread is huge.
Also. I would think white vinegar would clean well too. Then rinsed with hot water. I've been looking to switch to Ti due to finding flavor funky with nickel, a few manufacturers
Contact coils do work if you torch the wire first. Be careful as the color of the wire will change. It will start by going gold, then blue, purple and suddently grayish dull. Avoid going over blue. You certainly don't want the grey dull as it is a thick TiO2 layer that can flake off.So just got in my TI wire, got both 24 and 26g from stealthvapes. As per usual they also threw in a roll of 32g Kanthal for free!Good for making clapton's. Anyways, I have done ton's of Kanthal builds, ni200 builds, etc. I own a sx mini m and a dna200 mod I build and a dna40. But this is going to be really only for the dna200 since it's all I have been using since I got it and cannot imagine using the other's at this point. It maybe time to sell off all my other mods to make room for more dna200's I think.
Point is, I need to know if it's best to do spaced builds with ti wire or if I can get away with contact coils with it as if so I would much rather do it as it makes it easier to fit coils in smaller decks obviously has been an issue somewhat with the ni200 but with addition of dna200 a little less so as it can go lower.
Contact coils do work if you torch the wire first. Be careful as the color of the wire will change. It will start by going gold, then blue, purple and suddently grayish dull. Avoid going over blue. You certainly don't want the grey dull as it is a thick TiO2 layer that can flake off.
I don't use contact coils anymore but it seemed logical doing it to create an oxide layer and avoid shorting across the coil.You still find you need to torch to create contact coils even using SV wire, which is (I'm told) barely springy at all?
I had thought the reason to torch was just to get it to conform to a contact shape? With my CW wire, I can get it pretty much contact without torching, and apparently SV wire is even less springy than that? That said, I haven't actually tried the resulting contact coils, as I tend to go for minimally spaced these days. But they did seem to hold their shape when I tested it after first getting the wire.