Titanium wire, vaping and safety
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I have an IPV D2, it has a YiHi chip (a scaled down version). It has a Titanium mode. I'm just trying to figure out the best way to PULSE a new ti build. I've read all the posts here, and am confused, I realize some are using Nickle mode because their mod does NOT have a Ti mode, while others even with a Ti mode do it to get the pulse at a higher temperature.
Is it best to use really low temps to pulse, or use high temps I'm TEMP PROTECT mode, letting the mod keep the coil from getting to hot and avoid the white Ti dioxide build up. Hope this question is clear?
so i am not alone
yup so what i am experiencing is normal?
i vape between 500-600
only difference is from regular kanthal or vw mode is i get whiter cotton after???
I'm not an expert on pulsing Titanium because I've never really tried- I either ultrasonic my coils clean, or else just throw them away.
The best experience for pulsing Titanium comes with a TCR adjustable mod (DNA 200 chip, Dicodes chip, Apollo Reliant, mods with SXK chip, possibly Smok XCube 2 or Koopor although they're a bit unreliable) where you can adjust the TCR to 0.007, then if you set the mod to 300°C and fire it, it will limit the coil to around 580°C which is considered a safe maximum for Titanium. The coil will glow dully and get very/completely clean.
Using a normal Titanium mode, you are limited to 315°C / 600°F. That's certainly safe, but it won't do a huge amount of cleaning.
The alternative is normal VW mode, low wattage, being slow and careful. I've never really done it (or rather when I tried I worried I'd gone too far and so threw away the coils and stopped trying.) @cigatron is your man there; he does it all the time.
If you do go too far and get the white Ti dioxide then I do believe you can simply, and safely, scrape it off. Again @cigatron and others will know better than I. @druckle is a Titanium engineer with a lifetime's experience on such matters!
Put it in Ni200 mode, set joules around 20, set temps at 450-500 (coil mass is the variance here), pulse fire it, you should eventually get a very dull glow visible in a dark room...if you can easily see see it glow in a lit room, chances are, you got it too hot, reduce temp settings. If you don't see it glow in a dark room after a few seconds firing, gradually bump up the temps a few degrees(NOT the joules) until you do. We want to keep joules to a minimum to avoid overshooting, same with the slow temp setting increases.
If you see gray oxidation on your first try, don't throw it away just yet, wipe it off and keep playing with the temp settings, lather rinse repeat until you can get a glow without gray oxidation, THEN throw it away and build a duplicate coil and pulse it with your new-found settings knowledge.
Practice makes perfect.
Ok, I think I'm getting it, you put the mod in NI200 mode, just to fool the mod into pulsing at a higher temp then you can get in the mods (my IPV D2) Titanium mode!
What is the 450-500 F degrees in NI200 mode, equat to in actual degrees F?
i am using an rda,
dual coiled,
also having the same issue with my stock coils on the mega one that came with the evic vtc mini
.50 wire (metric) sorry outside us,
sleeper build ,ohm around 0.17
the easiest method i found in pulsing to fix my coils is
set it to wattage,set around 6- 7 watts
pulse at 2-5 seconds
a couple of times until i get the coils nice and tight,
then move ot a dark room
pulse 5-7 seconds multiple times
until i see the coil glow red
nopt super bright,just red.
then let it cool down to room temp.
i used this guide
How to wrap Ti coils for vaping
read somewhere that you cant have it glow the same intensity as kanthalmcause its dangerous.,
You really, really, really do NOT want to try pulsing a titanium coil on an IPV D2 in POWER mode.
Why, you ask?
Because the SX-130H board has no voltage step down in Power mode, it can't apply anything less than the battery voltage.
So even though you've set the power to the 7 watt minimum, you're actually going to get 30 watts and up, depending on your actual resistance and the actual battery charge. In other words, nearly instant intense glowing.
On mods with voltage step down, what @zeus01 posted is fine. Just make sure your mod does do step down (most do these days, but not all).
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Likewise, I fire my unwicked Ti coils at low wattage in power mode. 5-7 watts to dryburn them, toothbrush scrub while rinsing and repeat until it looks clean. I can't speak to contact coils as all mine are spaced coils and require no pulsing or squeezing.
One of my three STminis with a 24g Ti coil has been carefully dryburned and rewicked a dozen times or so and still looks really nice. No signs of needing replacing.
Something @Croak mentioned that I also agree with is to discard your intial "test fire" contact coil as I feel that it would be near impossible to wash off the dioxides that form in the higher temp zones, that is, where the coil turns touch each other.
Whoa, good catch. Guess I'd better tell my brother. He just bought a D2. Thanks.
Great, know I'm learning something, TEMP needs to be HIGH for pulsing unlike some of the LOW pulse temp advise often given. Using VW "power mode" on my IPV D2 is ill advised do to NO step down, of which I was aware, but a good reminder, I may have forgotten!
Cig, how many wraps and what size post? I ordered both 26 & 28 gauge titanium wire, as I read these were the best sizes. I want to build on my STM Mini like you. Any advantages to the thicker 24 g wire in a STM?
24g Ti-G1, 6 wraps spaced (wound on a 6-32 machine screw), 2.78mm ID, .20 ohm, wicked heavy with kgd.
26g with the same coil profile would be around .3 ohms, 28g around .4 ohms. Either of these should work fine and will be more accurate for tc because of their higher res than 24g however neithrer has as much surface area as 24g.
The next time I order Ti I'll get 26g to try out. It has a higher heat flux value than 24g without losing as much surface area as 28g. Might be a good compromise.
Here's the SE data on the 26g equivalent to my 24g coil Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
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Yup pretty much. I am using it for cotton protection on my RDA but run stainless coils in my triton tanks on VW mode when I am out of the house. I see a benefit to temp control dripping as I often get a good dry hit not paying attention to my wick saturation on a kanthal build but don't find it necessary in my tanks with stock replacement coils.so i am not alone
yup so what i am experiencing is normal?
i vape between 500-600
only difference is from regular kanthal or vw mode is i get whiter cotton after???
Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
I like the dry hit prevention as much as anyone else, but what I (and a lot of others) really like about temp control is the consistency of the vape (when it's working properly).
Same vape, every time, and for the entire draw. That's worth a lot to me, and worth all the hassles and learning curve with today's TC implementations.
Not to mention peace of mind knowing I'm not cooking my juice into a toxic stew like I could with Kanthal.
And there's an experiment for you @TheBloke : Temp probe an RDA with something like a 24 gauge 0.2 ohm Kanthal build at 70+ watts, well-wicked and saturated. Do several 5 or 6 second pulls and see what the peak is, and what the variance is from the start of the draw to the end. Betcha the variance is pretty extreme, bounded by the phase change points of the juice, and quite noticeable before the wick is completely dry and what most would still consider wet enough to vape. Might even go past the border of what some consider safe and into the frontier of acrolein/aldahyde production.
Yeah I've been wondering about what a Kanthal vape achieves. My max 700°C probe will be here mid next week and I'll give it a go then.
Thanks. Not sure, but my neice may have coined the term "fagatronic", combining the UK term ... for cigarettes and electronic. Even though using the name "fagatron" may have been acceptable in some regions of the world the implications here in the US would certainty have been less than pc.
I get a chuckle every time I see your avatar.
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