Titanium wire, vaping and safety

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WharfRat1976

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Now that's a good question and one that has many offerings. Some folks like to run the power setting watts/joules just below the point of temp protect, others, myself included, like to force the mod into tp immediately and rely on the mod to regulate power down to hold temp. Much of that has to do with the mods' ability to reduce power while temp protecting without making noise (rattlesnaking) or becoming pulsey (noticeable power cycling). My Evic does a great job of quietly regulating power with no noticeable changes. Ymmv

So try to set your joules way too high and see how your mod performs. If it rattlesnakes keep turning the joules diwn until it stops.

The Temp setting is a matter if personal preference. What's too hot for one is not for another soooo.
Nice. Thanks for that, makes perfect sense. I will try it until something breaks of course. I'm am out naked with just my nickel build over at my gfs house. No backups...sans backup...living on the edge bruh...
 
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JimScotty0

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Nope...my bad. Just wearing the dunce Cap brah. I can adjust joules from main screen. I know one joule equals one watt. What's the relationship to temperature lol? I think I know. Are you guys having fun with me or what.
Okay, so slapped in this spaced bad boy on a 3mm id. No dry firing, nothing. Set the resistance , wicked, juiced, fired great...put the top cap on and..........SHORT....lol...shorted to the top cap. The Manta is so tight. Fiddled with the pancaked left side of the coil until the lead SNAPPED...lol. here's a pic of that beauty.
4f19d0863af8bfe96998b0478944a1ea.jpg
db83f87834ebaa0c288edc1e13db416b.jpg

So recoiled on a 2.5mm ID and all good. Same process. Came in at .07 and vaping great. Still no clue if dry wick message will appear. Here is a pic of the 2.5mm version.
cd1869f144d95d37ef7002586112d6ad.jpg
Great flavor. Set at 34.2joules and 450 degrees. Any suggestions on temp and joules settings would be appreciated.
TC definitely kicked in. As the juice is absorbed, I feel the mod is decreasing power...pretty cool. Okay, I'm tripping on 3mg nic right now...need a lil break....Lil bit...
Just set the temperature to give you want and be sure you just give it enough Joules to ensure you reach that temp and not much more.
 
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GeorgeS

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    Ok thats what I thought but TP vaping is a whole different ball park of activity. You need to reset strategy really!

    Ummm... no you don't.

    Nothing wrong with TC vaping at 0.5 to 2.0 ohms if your mod can work with it. Just because many of my mods will fire at > 0.05 ohms in TC mode I don't have to build on the low end. Actually there are distinct advantages to NOT riding the low end of the TC resistance scale.

    While some chipsets will kick you out of TC mode with anything >=1.0 ohms, my YiHi chipped mods as well as my Apollo Reliant (SXK) have no problem with higher than 1.0 resistances in TC mode.

    Then again, I went directly from Aspire K1 and Nautilus Clearomizers to STM's, Lemo2's, Billow1 and TFV4's and TC vaping. Those who are attempting to reproduce cloud+flavor production of large Kanthal A1 builds with TC may need to reset their expectations or stick with the Kanthal A1.

    (yes, I keep 28-32AWG in both Ni200 and Ti1. Wire is cheap.)
     

    TheotherSteveS

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    Ummm... no you don't.

    Nothing wrong with TC vaping at 0.5 to 2.0 ohms if your mod can work with it. Just because many of my mods will fire at > 0.05 ohms in TC mode I don't have to build on the low end. Actually there are distinct advantages to NOT riding the low end of the TC resistance scale.

    While some chipsets will kick you out of TC mode with anything >=1.0 ohms, my YiHi chipped mods as well as my Apollo Reliant (SXK) have no problem with higher than 1.0 resistances in TC mode.

    Then again, I went directly from Aspire K1 and Nautilus Clearomizers to STM's, Lemo2's, Billow1 and TFV4's and TC vaping. Those who are attempting to reproduce cloud+flavor production of large Kanthal A1 builds with TC may need to reset their expectations or stick with the Kanthal A1.

    (yes, I keep 28-32AWG in both Ni200 and Ti1. Wire is cheap.)
    Maybe my statement was a little strong! What I was thinking really was that a 1.8ohm ti build, for example, will head towards 3.5ohms at temp and all im saying is that these kinds of things need to be taken into account. As you say, many mods at the moment just will not work at such high resistances. TC vaping does need to approached differently simply because the ususal 'ohm's law' considerations applied to planning and executing kanthal builds, are not useful with a wire
    that is changing resistance through the vape. Loads on the mods and batteries need to be considered of course, but the physiscs is different!! I see people posting here doing all sorts of crazy stuff thinking kanthal and TC vaping are interchangeable, which in many important details, they arent! The results can be pretty scary...
     

    cigatron

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    Ummm... no you don't.

    Nothing wrong with TC vaping at 0.5 to 2.0 ohms if your mod can work with it. Just because many of my mods will fire at > 0.05 ohms in TC mode I don't have to build on the low end. Actually there are distinct advantages to NOT riding the low end of the TC resistance scale.

    While some chipsets will kick you out of TC mode with anything >=1.0 ohms, my YiHi chipped mods as well as my Apollo Reliant (SXK) have no problem with higher than 1.0 resistances in TC mode.

    Then again, I went directly from Aspire K1 and Nautilus Clearomizers to STM's, Lemo2's, Billow1 and TFV4's and TC vaping. Those who are attempting to reproduce cloud+flavor production of large Kanthal A1 builds with TC may need to reset their expectations or stick with the Kanthal A1.

    (yes, I keep 28-32AWG in both Ni200 and Ti1. Wire is cheap.)

    Maybe my statement was a little strong! What I was thinking really was that a 1.8ohm ti build, for example, will head towards 3.5ohms at temp and all im saying is that these kinds of things need to be taken into account. As you say, many mods at the moment just will not work at such high resistances. TC vaping does need to approached differently simply because the ususal 'ohm's law' considerations applied to planning and executing kanthal builds, are not useful with a wire
    that is changing resistance through the vape. Loads on the mods and batteries need to be considered of course, but the physiscs is different!! I see people posting here doing all sorts of crazy stuff thinking kanthal and TC vaping are interchangeable, which in many important details, they arent! The results can be pretty scary...

    I agree, good points on both sides. Tc builds are different enough to be dangerous in the hands of the uneducated and higher res tc builds offer more accurate temp control.
     
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    GeorgeS

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    I agree, good points on both sides. Tc builds are different enough to be dangerous in the hands of the uneducated and higher res tc builds offer more accurate temp control.

    Yes that is one of the advantages - better accuracy. If your riding the low end of the resistance scale any static (or not so static) resistance introduced in your setup or build will effect the quality of your vape. The greater the resistance of your coil - the less percentage of change that your setup will introduce into the TC vaping experience.

    One of the other things to consider is coil mass and surface area. At times I try to get as much coil surface area as I can fit into a build. While I've never had much luck with twisted, clapton or exotic TC builds I've found that if you can simply add more wraps and raise the resistance (within reason) the wick has more coverage. While high resistance Ti1 builds can be made and fired on older VV mods (with care), I target my TC Ti1 builds to be 0.3-0.6 ohms or <= 1.5 ohms at temperature. After all one of the advantages of Ti1 over Ni200 is its higher resistance. If I can easily fit 10-12 wraps of 28AWG spaced Ni200 in a RBA with Ti1 I have the option of using 24-26AWG (spaced or contact) or just using the same AWG and wraps as I did with Ni200 but with a contact Ti1 coil.

    Lastly it might be interesting to note the amount of power needed to fire and maintain a 0.1 ohm coil compared to a 0.4 ohm coil. (my TC40's limited current output requires a coil >=0.15 ohms to fire at full 40w power, my current Ti1 build on that device is 0.38 ohms) As most of us have found the thinner diameter wire heat up and cool down much faster than the 20-24AWG Kanthal A1 builds, I've experienced a noticeable increase in battery charge life with using higher in the resistance operating range builds over the builds that hover on the low end of the operating resistance scale.

    While I'll venture to say that TC mode is not for everybody - I think we've all seen users go back to VW modes and Kanthal A1 - (personally I don't own any Kanthal A1 or ever made a coil with it) - I'd agree that it seems that TC vaping needs to be approached somewhat differently than the VW builds users may of been used to making before.
     

    JimScotty0

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    My unkamen ordered shipped....just a waiting game now. Can't wait to try the different wires.
    I got mine today. All 3 sizes. Man is that 24ga stiff stuff but unfortunately I won't be able to work with it until Fri or Sat. I think my plan is to cut off a length and measure the resistance on my SXM after factoring in the atty resistance. Then fire it up hot and after cooling, measure it again to see if it changes.

    They did send me a sample of 24ga 317 stainless wire which feels like Nickel and easy to bend. In comparison to the 24ga NiFe52 it is much, much, softer. The NiFe52 appears to be many times more stiffer and I would anticipate would be an extremely difficult wire to coil in its current state without perhaps torching or annealing.

    If anyone has any suggestions on any testing please give me some.
     

    Landman

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    I got mine today. All 3 sizes. Man is that 24ga stiff stuff but unfortunately I won't be able to work with it until Fri or Sat. I think my plan is to cut off a length and measure the resistance on my SXM after factoring in the atty resistance. Then fire it up hot and after cooling, measure it again to see if it changes.

    They did send me a sample of 24ga 317 stainless wire which feels like Nickel and easy to bend. In comparison to the 24ga NiFe52 it is much, much, softer. The NiFe52 appears to be many times more stiffer and I would anticipate would be an extremely difficult wire to coil in its current state without perhaps torching or annealing.

    If anyone has any suggestions on any testing please give me some.
    It does get a bit easier after it's been torched/annealed but it's still not as flexible as you'll wish it was. Still using the 24 ga in the STPlus with the SS304 TCR and it's been working fine. I took some 26 ga and made some vertical dual coils in the aromamizer and it's been working fine too.
     

    2legsshrt

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    I got mine today. All 3 sizes. Man is that 24ga stiff stuff but unfortunately I won't be able to work with it until Fri or Sat. I think my plan is to cut off a length and measure the resistance on my SXM after factoring in the atty resistance. Then fire it up hot and after cooling, measure it again to see if it changes.

    They did send me a sample of 24ga 317 stainless wire which feels like Nickel and easy to bend. In comparison to the 24ga NiFe52 it is much, much, softer. The NiFe52 appears to be many times more stiffer and I would anticipate would be an extremely difficult wire to coil in its current state without perhaps torching or annealing.

    If anyone has any suggestions on any testing please give me some.
    Oh you are talking about the notfithal 52. Haven't heard anything good about it. I hated to order from Germany but wanted to get the real thing. Zivipf
     
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    TheotherSteveS

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    One thing about the Unk NiFe52 it has made some of the threads heat up. Glad I waited this time before ordering any. Feel sorry for the guy at Unk going to get a lot of returns. No one can figure out quite what it really is.


    We know what it is. Its Notfethal52! Manufactured by Can'tthal....
     

    tchavei

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    I very much doubt it.

    As long as there are Ti users like myself, this thread will live.

    I see no point in vaping nickel alloys. I don't want to. In the last month's I've been vaping nothing else than the same Ti coil I made in the summer. Vaping is just as simple as smoking for me now. Fill up and vape. Once a month I change wicks and that's it. No fiddling, no adjusting, no improving. Why do I need to change?

    Ti rules.
     

    cigatron

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    I very much doubt it.

    As long as there are Ti users like myself, this thread will live.

    I see no point in vaping nickel alloys. I don't want to. In the last month's I've been vaping nothing else than the same Ti coil I made in the summer. Vaping is just as simple as smoking for me now. Fill up and vape. Once a month I change wicks and that's it. No fiddling, no adjusting, no improving. Why do I need to change?

    Ti rules.

    I hear ya Tony, I love Ti myself but can't dryburn it with enough power to clean twisted Ti builds to "like new" condition without causing oxides to form on the surface. I love twisted builds for flavor but end up with 24g single strand Ti builds for cleanability reasons. With nife48 I'm hoping to be able to clean twisted builds to like new condition. If nife48 doesn't rock my world I'll be right back to using Ti right quick.
     
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