tube juice feeding???

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misterD

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have it straight. i thought that it was flooding becos i was using the 18G needle so i switched to the 16G but it kept on doing it. it stopped just once i trimmed it but now i noticed that the air flowing on the atomizer is diminished so it runs much hotter. think im gonna go back to the 16G tomorrow... its so much cool though that i can actually open the top and wash the whole thing. great idea, asdaq!
that box of yours looks so nice!!! the stuff you do looks always very neat! :)
 

asdaq

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Thanks MisterD, but it doesn't close right without losing the ground most of the time. And once the fob is right its much easier to fill through the needle with another 22G needle than opening the fob and filling. Can be done for washing, but reassembling and trying not to spill, no thanks.

The 16G is bigger than 18 though, maybe try a 20?
 

asdaq

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i thought it was flooding due to more air being sucked in on the sides.
a solution to the lack of ground could be acchieved by messing up the threads on the reservoir and on the cap using a file needle.

The bigger the needle the more it restricts airflow to the atty so it works harder sucking up juice.

Those threads weren't great in the beginning and after the conversion it squeaked like a birdcall so I waxed them. The negative runs twisted (only, not soldered) around one of the screws, through the top plate to the lid of the fob. It works fine when it is slightly loose, but when I tighten down the nuts and align the plates it works only sometimes. Something needs to change with all of that.
 

misterD

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Damn that figures. I like the looks of bison tubes, they seem to be more precisely made, especially in the threads. Your vid turned out well. Is that your 2nd or rebuilt 1st?
its my second one and i added a thicker o-ring to the cap.
i noticed that if i upload my videos in wmv format they run at proper speed.
 

CloudBurst

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I have tomorrow off and plan on making mine! The final info on the second one would help. Can you explain it all in one post? I've read this thread several times and still have questions. I get the connector part...LOL Not sure about the needle, pos connection and the juice feed part. Does the juice flow up the needle which also serves as the pos connection?? Help, I love this thing!
 

Sci

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no its not! it doesn't even show sucky sucky!
YouTube - ‪ming lee‬‎

4685003711_819fceef0b.jpg
 

roadrash

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I have tomorrow off and plan on making mine! The final info on the second one would help. Can you explain it all in one post? I've read this thread several times and still have questions. I get the connector part...LOL Not sure about the needle, pos connection and the juice feed part. Does the juice flow up the needle which also serves as the pos connection?? Help, I love this thing!

At first I had no interest in the sucky sucky 5 dolla, But yesterday i lost 5 atties and 4 bats for one reason or another. I am guessing old age and all bought at same time. I dont like carts or cartos, dripping is the life for me.
Now what do I do? Yup cartos. So now I am thunking, can we use the sucky sucky on a carto with the stuffing ripped out? The biggest problem with dripping an empty carto is the leakage. The juice just pours out. What if the juice ran back in to the bottle or pill fob?:vapor::vapor::vapor:
 

asdaq

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Stormi, I'll try:

1. Take the o-ring off the fob cap. It's fragile and easily gets ruined when drilling.

2. Cut off the top keyring nub and file/sand top surface smooth.

3. Drill hole for atty connector in fob cap and another for battery connector in fob bottom. Depending on your tools start with a smaller hole and gradually expand the hole by filing/ sanding. A press fit is desired.

4. Solder a wire, 2-4 inches, (26awg is beefier and helps hold needle in place better than 28awg) in the bottom connector, sealing bottom hole with the solder.

5. Choose a needle that clears through atty connector hole and atty. Not too snug, not too loose. Using a small 510 connector (madvapes) a 18G is good for me. 20G might be good too, YMMV.

6. Remove plastic from end of needle and most of the glue too. Leave the topmost ridge of glue. Trim/blunt needle so that it will still protrude through connector when at its lowest point in the fob (so the top of needle can't escape into fob) . Rough up the needle with a file in the middle of the remaining section.

7. Solder other end of wire to the middle of needle and make sure it stays. Tinning the wire and wrapping it around the needle helps, as does having the blob go around the needle. Tinning the needle could work too, I didn't.

8. Place a small section of heatshrink tubing on the bottom of the needle up to the ridge of remaining glue that protects teh bottom of the needle from shorting.

9. Reassemble the bottom connector and apply the glue of your choice to the fob bottom (outside) and press fit connector into the bottom of the fob. Also glue side holes of connector, The entire bottom portion should be airtight. Let glue cure completely.

10. Assemble all the parts, coiling the wire inside the fob and positioning the needle somewhat in line with the cap. Because the wire in the bottom keeps the needle askew, it is always in contact with the top connector or atty maintaining the positive connection, and the negative through the fob body.

Now you are done, so add juice and set the needle to a good height. A little practice and you'll have quite the vaping session:vapor::vapor::vapor::vapor:
 
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