tube juice feeding???

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Scottbee

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Dan,

Love your work.

Had any problems with the center post (+) connection being "iffy" at times?

P.S. I would think that your setup would really be the bomb with 901 style atomizers. With their side "vent" hole... you can block the hole and give it a couple of "sucks" to charge the atty.... then release for vaping.
 
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FlyerTom

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This is exactly what I've been looking for for use with my 5v passthroughs - an El Cheapo GG-AFS. Zippity-do-dah!

Is there a reason why I can't use some Ø-1/16" brass tubing instead of a needle? I've got a box of them waiting for juice-feeder mods. :)

Marvelous stuff, Dan and Company. Muchos thankos to all of youse.
 
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Scubabatdan

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Dan,

Love your work.

Had any problems with the center post (+) connection being "iffy" at times?

P.S. I would think that your setup would really be the bomb with 901 style atomizers. With their side "vent" hole... you can block the hole and give it a couple of "sucks" to charge the atty.... then release for vaping.

Thanks, this was a down and dirty rendition. I Have not had any connection problems, initially was going with a spring on the shoulder of the swedge on the needle to the connector center post but found I do not need it if the hole on the top is slightly off center, it keeps the needle assembly touching the center connector on top. Hve never had a misfire going on 20 hours of vape time.

This is exactly what I've been looking for for use with my 5v passthroughs - an El Cheapo GG-AVS. Zippity-do-dah!

Is there a reason why I can't use some Ø-1/16" brass tubing instead of a needle? I've got a box of them waiting for juice-feeder mods. :)

Marvelous stuff, Dan and Company. Muchos thankos to all of youse.

Hmmm I would stick to SS as the brass will corrode (verdigris) and leech into the juice from what I have read.
Dan
 
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Scottbee

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Hmmm I would stick to SS as the brass will corrode (verdigris) and leech into the juice from what I have read.
Dan

I've never had much of a problem with the brass that the atty and battery connectors are made of.... but the brass tubing that I have gotten from the hobby shop and hardware stores has given me some grief.

As you have noted.. over time, in the presence of most e-liquids, the material corrodes badly and ultimately you will pick up a nasty taste.
 

asdaq

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Dan, that is a masterpiece indeed. And I knew it wouldn't take you "a couple of days":D

Scott, the fact you don't worry about replacement air tells me that this here is quite a bit different indeed. To have a day in your shop/facility... sigh. It still would be nice to know the inner workings.
 

Scubabatdan

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Verdigris is bacteriostatic... just sayin... :D

I refered to it in the manner of its common name for the green pigment that cover brass or copper when exposed to moisture and air. And, verdigris consists of various poisonous acetates, sulfates, and chlorides, one should always wash one's hands after handling... just sayin... :D teehee

Ummm me use brass.. heck no....

Dan
 

Scubabatdan

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Circumspice

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Maybe I should clarify... Copper verdigris is bacteriostatic. A fact that has been known and exploited for more than 2 thousand years. (along with ground up malachite and chrysocolla, both of which are copper based minerals) Roman physicians would take copper rods or "nails" and corrode them intentionally with boiling vinegar, then dry them and scrape the verdigris off and sprinkle the verdigris powder into infected wounds, with a high degree of success. It is similar to the old powdered sulfa drugs that were used similarly on the battlefield. I'm not sure, but isn't brass a copper and tin alloy?


I refered to it in the manner of its common name for the green pigment that cover brass or copper when exposed to moisture and air. And, verdigris consists of various poisonous acetates, sulfates, and chlorides, one should always wash one's hands after handling... just sayin... :D teehee

Ummm me use brass.. heck no....

Dan
 

Scubabatdan

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Maybe I should clarify... Copper verdigris is bacteriostatic. A fact that has been known and exploited for more than 2 thousand years. (along with ground up malachite and chrysocolla, both of which are copper based minerals) Roman physicians would take copper rods or "nails" and corrode them intentionally with boiling vinegar, then dry them and scrape the verdigris off and sprinkle the verdigris powder into infected wounds, with a high degree of success. It is similar to the old powdered sulfa drugs that were used similarly on the battlefield. I'm not sure, but isn't brass a copper and tin alloy?

Yes it is :)
 

roadrash

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Hello Dan,

A very well done tutorial that just about anybody can follow.

I made one of these a while back using a 510 carto to keep it the same diameter as as standard bat. holds 2+ mil and works ok with a addy. with a carto a little different story. you end up juicing the attie and not the filler which makes it gurgle all the time. Maybe could extend the needle past the filler and put some kind of deflection on the needle to fill the poly instead. i think clear plastic of some type or a window is needed to see when your almost empty before you walk out the door.

Thanks for sharing with us again.:toast:
 

mianker

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Dan,
Thank you sooooooo much for the very detailed and informative instructions. I have everything ordered to attempt this project. It will be my first attempt soldering anything and I'm seeing VERY tiny holes. Guess I'll practice soldering while I wait for the rest of the stuff to arrive. Bet Madvapes is going to have a run on a certain connector.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
and of course special thanks to MisterD, asdaq and everyone else who contributed
 
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Scubabatdan

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Hello Dan,

A very well done tutorial that just about anybody can follow.

I made one of these a while back using a 510 carto to keep it the same diameter as as standard bat. holds 2+ mil and works ok with a addy. with a carto a little different story. you end up juicing the attie and not the filler which makes it gurgle all the time. Maybe could extend the needle past the filler and put some kind of deflection on the needle to fill the poly instead. i think clear plastic of some type or a window is needed to see when your almost empty before you walk out the door.

Thanks for sharing with us again.:toast:
Simple, crimp the end of the needle and put a notch in it so the fluid pulls to the side rather than straight up, an alternate to crimping the end is putting a dab of epoxy in the end of the needle so it is blocked and use the same notch technique with a dremel cutting wheel. I aggree that a window is needed to see the fluid level, just have to mill it out and glue a piece of clear plastic in place or buy one designed that way. Somthing like this:
Pill Fob Necklace With Window

Thanks,
Dan

That's actually bronze. Brass is copper+zinc. Most likely the hobby/hardware store stuff is to be more impressive and golden, and has more copper in the alloy. Using SS needles is just much easier for this than 1/16th tubing.

Ok, I stand corrected LOL zinc tin, hey, they both have "in" in them :)
Dan

Dan,
Thank you sooooooo much for the very detailed and informative instructions. I have everything ordered to attempt this project. It will be my first attempt soldering anything and I'm seeing VERY tiny holes. Guess I'll practice soldering while I wait for the rest of the stuff to arrive. Bet Madvapes is going to have a run on a certain connector.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
and of course special thanks to MisterD, asdaq and everyone else who contributed

You are quite welcome,
Dan
 
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FlyerTom

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I'm going to attack one of these when I get home from work later, but a couple of questions first:
1. Is that a 510 cartomizer pictured in the tute? Female threads makes me think it's an 808 or 901.
2. Is a 7/32" drill the correct size for the through-hole? That's only .219 diameter, and battery connector O.D.s are much larger than that.
 
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Scubabatdan

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I'm going to attack one of these when I get home from work later, but a couple of questions first:
1. Is that a 510 cartomizer pictured in the tute? Female threads makes me think it's an 808 or 901.
2. Is a 7/32" drill the correct size for the through-hole? That's only .219 diameter, and battery connector O.D.s are much larger than that.

Yes it is a 510 in the tut, the 901 and 801's are reverse to the 510's. I was using a 1/4" and it was too loose, so I went with a 7/32", I suppose there are variances between manufactures. I would start with a 7/32" and if it is too tight go up a 1/64" to 15/64" untl you get the feel you like.
Hope this helps,
Dan
 

roadrash

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I'm going to attack one of these when I get home from work later, but a couple of questions first:
1. Is that a 510 cartomizer pictured in the tute? Female threads makes me think it's an 808 or 901.
2. Is a 7/32" drill the correct size for the through-hole? That's only .219 diameter, and battery connector O.D.s are much larger than that.

Battery connectors have different o.d.s and more importantly the center pins have different O.D.s. which means you cannot mix up the center pins spacer.
 
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