What kind of nickel are you using? I heard Brandon talk about their being two kinds and one was not as soft.
VaporShark rDNA
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What kind of nickel are you using? I heard Brandon talk about their being two kinds and one was not as soft.
I was talking with a mod builder today and he said the first batch of boards he got had to go back to Evolve for reprogramming. Soo....... I guess there could be some board problems out there.
One was an opus, and the other was a VaporShark DNA (the small one). More than likely it was a DIY upgrade... I mean, I'm sure SOMEONE working at Evolv can solder and do the swap
. It's really not hard at all to swap out the DNA30 board in a VS DNA for a new dNA40 board. Took me less than a half hour here to do it.
One was an opus, and the other was a VaporShark DNA (the small one). More than likely it was a DIY upgrade... I mean, I'm sure SOMEONE working at Evolv can solder and do the swap
Did you remove the rails?
The normal Ni200 from Lightning Vapes, which is the standard, softer stuff and not the tempered wire
Yes. The board is scored along each rail, front and back side, so you could essentially snap them, but I used some thin cutters and popped them, then lightly dressed the sides with a file to clean up the edges (note: a steel file, which is conductive so as to not build up a static charge)
Brandon talked about Ni200 with a #1 temper but I couldn't find any.
One place, Ulbrich Ni200 datasheet, indicated they could make various tempers but it is not a retail operation.
One was an opus, and the other was a VaporShark DNA (the small one). More than likely it was a DIY upgrade... I mean, I'm sure SOMEONE working at Evolv can solder and do the swap
VS said there won't be a DNA 40 (small with Li-po battery) because the battery pack can't supply the amps.
I like that idea I'm doing the range thing with a full sized hams clone, also doing magnets in the door. I wish I woulda known you could mod the mini for an 18650, that's awesome!
I'm gonna try to make a bottom feeder out of it you think their's any chance I can fit a small bottle in there..?
From what I've learned, you need to mill out at least 2mm from the battery area and square off the corners to fit a 18650. I don't think there's any room for any size bottle in there. Of course, I could be wrong but the board sits diagonally in the electronics space and little space for anything else.
I'm thinking about using the full size looks like they're a lot of room on the side that the board goes on, but I've never held one so I could be way off.
I'll be picking mine up at a VS shop. I'll definitely let you guys know when I pick it up
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Except for the reading it as Kanthal bit...the rest is normal...soft limiting will allow you to build a coil below .16 ohms and it will still fire (as long as not shorted) but it will fire at .16 ohms regardless of the reading. I am not saying you should build below .16 and make soft limit kick in, I am saying it will let you vape at .16 regardless of whether your coil is lower.
Nickel is very soft, so I have been lifting higher than normal and letting it settle. These coils are very easy to mash...a tip on the FB page said to turn off Temp control and pre-fire the coil...then gently squeeze (I mean brain surgeon hands gently...lol) and then you can run your tweezers very gently across the top of the coil to smooth out any cold spots in the middle...a coil jig helps but mine does not fit a 3mm bit (1/8). So, anyway, then you turn tc back on and vape away...reading ohms along the way to building obviously....
If you do that...I would paint the board with silicone...don't want any possible bottle leaks to fry your board. Provape paints silicone on all of their boards, in case something goes wrong. Were you planning to dremel out a squonk hole? You could also cut a rectangular piece of wood or metal and cover the board area...maybe attached with some mini brackets? but then you would need a really thin bottle.
There doesn't look like a ton of room in the circuitry area...I wonder if you could just build a new front that would make it deeper and make a half cover for the battery compartment, so they don't rattle or unseat...LOL, sorry the engineer in me is having a field day....
Yeah buddy that's the kinda imputed I'm looking for. I think a whole new door that bulges out on the board side I can bend, cut mill,lathe a new door up if I have to then cut a squonk hole in the bulge. I think I'm gonna be on the hunt for some odd shaped bottles. I remember Mundy was using some kind of square bottle that was from a Chinese food of some kind. . .If you do that...I would paint the board with silicone...don't want any possible bottle leaks to fry your board. Provape paints silicone on all of their boards, in case something goes wrong. Were you planning to dremel out a squonk hole? You could also cut a rectangular piece of wood or metal and cover the board area...maybe attached with some mini brackets? but then you would need a really thin bottle.
There doesn't look like a ton of room in the circuitry area...I wonder if you could just build a new front that would make it deeper and make a half cover for the battery compartment, so they don't rattle or unseat...LOL, sorry the engineer in me is having a field day....
The modified door it feels like cheating to me to be honest but if I can't get a bottle that holds at least 4 ml without going that route I'll just have to bite the bullet and take the easy way out. That's after I swap out the chip for a dna40 of course lol.
Thanks for your interest, keep the ideas flowing.
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