Firmware is what controls the chips and makes the decisions, of course it supports firmware.
It does not support user upgradeable firmware.
VaporShark rDNA
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Firmware is what controls the chips and makes the decisions, of course it supports firmware.
It does not support user upgradeable firmware.
Of course. Though it's not user accessible, requiring the user to send their device in, costing the user money, time, and possibly leaving them deviceless. It's really unbelievable that a "premium" chip, in 2014/15, can't be upgraded by the user. That's all I'm getting at here.
I would probably make the same decision as Evolv though perhaps not for the same reasons.
They know the clone humpers (thanks M Todd) will be all over it.
No point in handing the binary to them on a silver plater, make em work for it
Neither of my dna 40 require more, newer or different firmware, I dunno if any others do or not.
They know the clone humpers (thanks M Todd) will be all over it.
No point in handing the binary to them on a silver plater, make em work for it
Neither of my dna 40 require more, newer or different firmware, I dunno if any others do or not.
Most likely, the actual FPGA / ASIC isn't re-programmable. Often, once switched into production mode, the manufacturers lock out the firmware forever. Need to update it, you replace the chip (or in this case, the board).
While user-upgradable firmware may be a nifty feature, isn't really required. VaporShark has a well-tested RMA system. And a warranty. Better to just use it.
Another reason to make the firmware not user upgradeable is that a bad firmware flash can brick the device and if given the option many people will upgrade even if it fixes an issue that they're not experiencing.
While returning home from work today...
Everyone is waiting to hear if you won on roll up the rim.
What am I doing wrong? I can't get the flavor out of my nickel build that I did from my kanthal build. Same diameter and number of wraps. The only difference is the amount of cotton. I can't squeeze as much cotton into the nickel coil without destroying it. Is this the problem?
Yes, 2mm, squeezed down and then released, leaving a perfectly spaced coil. I have learned to make some beautiful coils with nickel, but the beauty means absolutely nothing when I can get better flavor from an EVOD than I can from a Subtank Mini. I haven't taken it over 530 degrees, but I feel like I should be getting better flavor long before I crank it up past 500 degrees on a 0.13 ohm build.
Have you tried a larger i.d.? I use a 5/64" bit for wrapping compressed Kanthal coils but I've had better luck at about 3mm with spaced Ni200.
This is how I am doing ~ Contact Coils with CC-Rayon. And it works stupendously well for me. See if it does for you too.
1. Start with a single coil setup,
2. Avoid finicky 510ed attys (e.g. K4, SQR, R91-Black to name a few),
3. "Work Harden" your Ni200 before use (even if it is annealed or tempered),
4. Wrap the coil tight and evenly over your bit, slightly pulling the leg with a plier every 4-5 wraps,
5. Ensure that the coil legs are well connected at the terminals (I double wrap on the screws),
6. Set it to 410-430F and 22-24W ~ then pulse it and squeeze it a couple of times,
7. Insert your wick (Cotton = Not too tight and not too loose either. Rayon = Packed tight)
8. Saturate your build well,
9. Let it sit for a few minutes (we need it in room temperature, before the first read)
10. Take a 'cold read' (New Coil ~ UP)
And you should be good!
I'm loving this neat little innovation. Can't imagine myself going back to Kanthal and non-TP.
I also have the same issue with my Subtank Mini not reading when all of the way down. If I back it off a bit it does read, but then the atty is too loose. I'm going to try some of the VS Ni200 prebuilt coils tomorrow to see if those also have the issue.
Edit: I went ahead and installed the .15 ohm VS coil...all is working well. I'm at a loss as to why the .5 ohm coil wouldn't register properly.
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Instead of cranking the temp up. Try increasing your coil resistance to .2 - .25 you may have to switch to a smaller gauge wire I use 30g mostly. Wicking rule less is more. With this build you can back your temp down to a safer level and get a satisfying vape at lower wattages I tend to hover between 15 - 18 watts and my juice never tasted so good.
medic....I agree with everybody...more diameter and less heat. The larger diameter will allow you to use less wraps and the coil will fit better.
I've been watching you guys on the news...hope you get your water back soon!!!
I've been watching you guys on the news...hope you get your water back soon!!!
I solved my connection issues with the subtanks. Both, my minis and fullsize would not connect without the beauty ring, then even with it would fail sporadically. Something about the design of the VS 510. They worked flawlessly on all my other devices. I went to my local b&m and picked up an old universal external airflow control ring. I used to use one on my original istick to protect the threads and deal with the failing 510 pin. This thing works like a charm. Eveything threads on beautifully, sits flush, makes connection and as an added bonus protects the finish on my VS from atty rash at the 510. Its low profile and doesn't bother me aesthetically.
Update on my rdna born 2-10-15. More screen glitches. Maybe two or three a day. They go away quickly either on their own or by hitting the fire button. Maybe this was the software fix - Just refresh the screen at every opportunity. The other disappointing issue is battery life. It doesn't seem to make it an entire day. I get the same result with the included LG or a couple Samsung 25r. I was hoping for more. As comparison, a 20W eleaf istick always lasted me a day and then some ( apples to oranges maybe?).
Other than that I'm very pleased.
Other than that I'm very pleased.
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Was going to stop by the B&M today, will have to see if they have one of these. I extended the screw on mine which solved my connection issues, but I like this for the added protection of the rDNA coating.
I have yet to try contact coils when playing with nickel. I'm getting great flavor and vapor with 28ga, 3.2 dia coils that come out around .13-.17 spaced with ... cotton.
I have a VS rDNA 40 with the small screen coming, I hope I did not make a mistake. Not wanting a glitchy dna 40, but I have been enjoying the rDNA 30.
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