Am i the only one with only owning one of each ?!
But i am not going to try the 1.5
But i am not going to try the 1.5
The best price i have seen is fasttech,they have the original for $22 and some change,and the 1.5 is $25 and some change,then the Unity is $26 and some change.Who has the best prices on either one?
I forgot about that one,i had never seen it until the other day when i went searching for the gold one.It looks very cool,but at double the price of the others,i'll stick with cheap ol SS haha.Thanks! Just looked...WoW...there is a Titanium one!
Thats the problem, should be better from the original... So why they make a newer version, if it's just the same or for me better the original profilethe 2 1.5s arrived today and i set 1 up on a new Topside lite. i closed the top row off because it is useless and it's a great vape. i wouldn't say it's better than the original but it's not worse either
I had that issue on one of mine a while back.Same deal,checked for hot spots,etc.,turned out i had my wick just a little loose on one side.After i rewicked the problem went away.May or may not be causing yours,but worth a try.so it's been a little over 2 weeks i've had using the 1.5. i have the gun metal version running on a Topside Lite with the Chill mesh @ 45.5 watts and after 5-6 puffs, it gets too hot to use. i was having the same problem when i first set it up with the Extreme mesh as well. I have the air flow wide open.
when i was setting it up i made sure there were no hot spots.
the black version i have running on a Pulse Dual with the Turbo mesh @ 65 watts and it's fine. i can chain vape that one no problem.
i have no idea why the gun metal gets so frikken hot.
yeah...i pulled the barrel off and fired it while blowing on the mesh to see if the mesh got red. it didn't. i have 6x originals and 2x 1.5s and it only happens with this one...weird
that's exactly what i was thinking. pull it apart and start from scratch.That’s a strange one. Own several different colours of the original, can’t say one colour got hotter than another. Perhaps take it apart a give it a good clean. Not that I think that’s that the problem but worth a try.
Hello "profilers".
Need your help and advise.
I got myself an original version Profile (and a Kylin M too but that's another thread).
First impressions:
It's a solid rda.
Replaced the spring to a slightly stronger one.
Wicked it spot on first time.
Flavour is excelent
Colder than a normal rda for the same power and clouds.
My problem:
I don't trust mesh and am almost afraid to use it.
Sometimes I let my wicks dry a bit and am really worried about the nasty results with this kind of atomiser.
Question:
Anyone had serious issues when dry hitting?
Advices besides keep squonking?
Thank you all
Mesh is very low in mass which in the case of the Profile, it does not scale in heat when more power is applied like a typical Clapton coil would. Both airflow and saturation has much more of an influence.
I have never found the need to change the spring to something stronger. All my RDA/RTA’s just use the default single spring.
The Profile uses a lot of cotton, which in turn holds a lot of juice. Your squonking regime will have to change to accommodate this amount of cotton. In other words, if the wicks are somewhat dry, you may have to squonk several times in order to saturate. But because there is so much wick, the frequency in which you squonk will also differ.
Example: My B2K RDA utilizes very little wicking. So I squonk about every 3 to 4 puffs, but all that is needed is just a quick squeeze of the bottle. The Profile, I have to give a hard squonk 2 or 3 times to fully saturate, but I can get like 15 to 20 puffs out of a fully saturated wick. You will find your limits and adopt a squonking method.
As for preventing dry hits. Outside of a saturated wick it is critical there are no voids between the wick and the mesh. Voids means that part of the mesh is not being saturated therefore it will reach much higher temperatures. You can see this as hot spots on the strip. So you need to ensure you have enough wick to prevent this. If your mesh strip is deformed, this too can cause a void between the strip and the wick. Reform the mesh or replace it.
Do not want to say it is inevitable you will receive a dry hit, but accidents do happen. Perhaps you ding the strip putting the cap on, or you put the device down for a period of time and take a hit without checking how saturated the wick is. I’m guilty of both.
Punk said it all...I have found that the mesh RTA a more constant setup, noticeably the VV kyln M. I also prefer to use power mode over TC (love pulse mode) as TC mode tends to fade as the coil gunks up, call me lazy.
Punk said it all...I have found that the mesh RTA a more constant setup, noticeably the VV kyln M. I also prefer to use power mode over TC (love pulse mode) as TC mode tends to fade as the coil gunks up, call me lazy.