WOFOTO Profile RDA

[Punk In Drublic]

I use only nexmesh SS in tc mode and have noticed that after longish use flavor drops ...I then switch from tc to power mode and flavor improves, kinda suggests a loss of coil resistance apparent in the mod sensing.
I have read other posts that suggests mesh may have a variable in this respect?

I can’t understand how mesh would change in resistance or it’s TCR rate, then change back once a little more heat was applied. A change in resistance indicates a break down of the mesh – this is unrepairable.

A higher resolution in reading resistance is required when operating TC with low resistance coil. The Steam Engine TC Precision gives a value for this – same metal, same TCR rate, but lower resistance = less precision. Can be of value but Steam Engine has no idea how precise a mod is.

 

[Punk In Drublic]

I wonder if carbonized juice is conductive?

Yes – high carbon buildup does change the resistance of the coil. But has to be high….like gross, burnt vape type high

 

[Zaryk]

I wonder if carbonized juice is conductive?

If it were, we would see that in the resistance of a coil when it gets dirty vs when it it clean. So I feel comfortable saying that it is not conducive.

Edit- but like @Punk In Drublic said, extreme buildup does effect resistance. Not sure if it's because of conductivity or just making the wire less conductive by insulation. But to get to that level of gunk you have to really neglect the coil.

 

[tw33k]

the other day i was vaping another Profile (on the Desire Rage) when i got a dry-ish hit and found a hot spot. this has lead me to believe that the wicking is the problem. i had been taking the rayon rope and folding it in half. what i've now done, for the 2 i had problems with, is folding the rope so that it is 3 layers thick. it was a challenge getting this much rayon through but i managed it.
fingers crossed that this was indeed the problem. i'll know in a few days

 

[Coolsiggy]

I believe TCR sensing has precision limits and mod accuracy may vary. Mesh is thin with fine gaps, carbon deposits may absorb juice and juice is conductive. These are assumed variables, my question is does this cause TCR changes and flavor fade....power mode would not be affected.

 

[Coolsiggy]

the other day i was vaping another Profile (on the Desire Rage) when i got a dry-ish hit and found a hot spot. this has lead me to believe that the wicking is the problem. i had been taking the rayon rope and folding it in half. what i've now done, for the 2 i had problems with, is folding the rope so that it is 3 layers thick. it was a challenge getting this much rayon through but i managed it.
fingers crossed that this was indeed the problem. i'll know in a few days

I have used both single and double rope rayon on mesh without problems. The Wotofo spring (2) seems to work with a single rope for me and I suspect that with 2 ropes the spring block is fully compressed. I use a Profile on a LV Drone and use a single rope because the squonk flow is so poor...so far no dry hits. I seem to have my best vaping using RTA's, the Profile RDA may be more sensitive to squonk action and mod used. High compression of the rayon may affect absorption.

 

[Zaryk]

I've been using 1½ pieces of rayon. Haven't had any issues with that amount.

I've gone through a bottle and a half of juice and had no hot spots pop up so far. It normally develops one by now, so I think mine had an issue with the clamp.

 

[Marper]

My profile rda arrived yesterday and I've been playing with it on my topside dual, I found the supplied mesh strips to be rather muted in flavour, I was using muji cotton, anyway I ripped it out and made my own mesh strip from a roll I've got, kanthal and decided to use some cotton I got ages ago, very fluffy and now it's not to bad, it will take time for me to dial it in

 

[Marper]

But it's getting there and so easy to build, I seriously like it, I think cause it's new kanthal and cotton it might take a day to burn in, the flavour is starting to pop and with the build I did I'm not getting any spitting, no dry burns but I am using it in squonk mode, my mesh strip came in at 0.13 ohm and running nearly 20 amp but that's ok with dual 25rs on the topside,vaping at 45 watts

 

[Punk In Drublic]

But it's getting there and so easy to build, I seriously like it, I think cause it's new kanthal and cotton it might take a day to burn in, the flavour is starting to pop and with the build I did I'm not getting any spitting, no dry burns but I am using it in squonk mode, my mesh strip came in at 0.13 ohm and running nearly 20 amp but that's ok with dual 25rs on the topside,vaping at 45 watts

I mostly use the OFRF Kanthal mesh. Prefer this over the stock Wotofo but found the differences were subtle.

Cotton is mostly 3/4 of a muji pad with the harder outer layer removed. There is no breaking in, instant flavour. Never experienced spitback unless the deck was flooded, and even then it was rare. Wicking lasts about 4 times longer than a typical coil using the same juice.

The current rating you are seeing on the screen of your Topside is the coil current, not battery current. World of difference with a regulated device.

The regulated circuit has an Input (battery) and Output (coil) - the battery has no idea what the coil resistance is. The regulated circuit is only requesting power plus a little extra for efficiency, based on your wattage setting from the battery. Current draw will be dependent on the battery voltage…as voltage depletes, current increases to meet your prescribed wattage.

We calculate max current draw with a regulated device based on the devices voltage cut off, which is typically 3.2 volts. 45 watts/ number of cells/ 3.2 volt cut off/ device efficiency (approx. 90%) = current draw per battery. So…45/2/3.2/0.9 = 7.8 amps. Call it 8 amps per cell. Think you OK with using Samsung 25R’s

Current draw at the coil is Voltage/Resistance. First voltage is assigned based on your coil resistance and power setting. So Voltage = √Power x Resistance, V = √45 watts x 0.13 ohms = 2.42 volts. 2.42 volts/0.13 ohms = 18.7 amps. Close enough to 20 amps.

Enjoy the new Profile

 

[Marper]

Yeah, I knew I was close enough and it's so nice now, the orf coils are pretty expensive towards the wotofo coils, anyway mine is good, and yeah I think I didn't use enough muji, I did half a pad and it was spotting and spitting, I'll use this pack of cotton up with it and then try muji again, many thanks for your reply cause it certainly helps me understand the difference between mesh and ordinary coils

 

[Punk In Drublic]

Yeah, I knew I was close enough and it's so nice now, the orf coils are pretty expensive towards the wotofo coils, anyway mine is good, and yeah I think I didn't use enough muji, I did half a pad and it was spotting and spitting, I'll use this pack of cotton up with it and then try muji again, many thanks for your reply cause it certainly helps me understand the difference between mesh and ordinary coils

With mesh, just ensure you have enough cotton under the strip so that there are no voids between the mesh and wick. If there is a void, that spot on the mesh will increase in heat in comparison to the rest and it will present you with a dry burn.

The mesh strip must also retain its profile (pun). If it gets dinged, or deformed this too will result in hot spots. You can try to use the included tool to reform it’s profile (pun), but usually if they get dinged they are toast and should be replaced. The strips can last for some time, but little extra care in handling them is needed.

Also use low wattage (like ~10 watts) to dry burn off the crusties. Do not glow to red hot…this can break the mesh. Low wattage pulses and a little patience and they will come out good as new.

The OFRF is a little more pricey than the Wotofo. But some retailers charge way too much, taking advantage of their popularity. Do a little shopping, I’m sure you can find them at a more reasonable price. Vandy Vape also has their own line of mesh strips…never tried so no comment.

 

[Marper]

I've got about 10 ft of mesh kanthal so I don't think I'll be bothered buying any other stuff cause mine is hitting the spot

 

[Marper]

And my mesh seams so much more sturdy than the flimsy strip stuff you get with it and I suspect I've got more area for the juice comparable to the flat punched hole strip stuff

 

[Marper]

I'm vaping some old heisenberg I got ages ago in it, it never tasted this good Haha

 

[Punk In Drublic]

And my mesh seams so much more sturdy than the flimsy strip stuff you get with it and I suspect I've got more area for the juice comparable to the flat punched hole strip stuff

What are you using? I also have a spool of VV Stainless mesh – it’s meh….much prefer the Kanthal OFRF strips. I wouldn’t call the OFRF flimsy…they are not fat a$s Clapton type durable but they can take a little abuse.

 

[Marper]

To tell you the truth I'm slowly boxing my rtas and reg mods and putting them away cause in my opinion you can't beat sqounking with a mech or regulated squonk mod using rdas

 

[Marper]

Its vandy vape mesh kanthal, not got a clue about the hole size ect but I bet each strip I make will last ages

 

[Marper]

 

[YePsTeR]

Looks good and I just wanted to say that I just busted open my first bottle of Heisenberg and it is very good!!