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Lucky... MY Protank II decided to start leaking and gurgling this afternoon out of no where. No luck with this new set up
Mine (on ANY device) always starts off requiring HARD primer puffs. This is with a stock head with all flavor wicks removed and 70/30 PG/VG juices. Then it gurgles when it gets below 1/4 empty.
Yep. Gonna do the ekowool rebuild on it. Just got some ribbon kanthal. Might as well try that....
Yep. Gonna do the ekowool rebuild on it. Just got some ribbon kanthal. Might as well try that....
Playing around I decided to see how my 19 would look with a 22mm IBT and RH Killer dropped with an SG-1.
Looks great, works very well, albeit a little dangerous. As other attys like the oddy and ithaka - the 705 gets its airflow
from the bottom through (mainly) the center of 510 connection. It gets plenty of airflow with this set up - but that airflow is
coming from the battery vent holes. I don't think I'll be keeping it this way. Still waiting on some other devices that have been ordered
and hopefully have some decent bottom airflow. But damn it looks good
The Killer forced me to do it...just sitting there glaring at me.
Looks great, works very well, albeit a little dangerous. As other attys like the oddy and ithaka - the 705 gets its airflow
from the bottom through (mainly) the center of 510 connection. It gets plenty of airflow with this set up - but that airflow is
coming from the battery vent holes. I don't think I'll be keeping it this way. Still waiting on some other devices that have been ordered
and hopefully have some decent bottom airflow. But damn it looks good
The Killer forced me to do it...just sitting there glaring at me.
Looks super sharp. But I agree on the safety first thing.....
(sez the guy vaping on SS cable of unknown providence at a hardware store.....)
(sez the guy vaping on SS cable of unknown providence at a hardware store.....)
I switched the coil head on my Protank II and it screws down almost all the way and pulls vapor out now...
I finally bit the bullet and cut a channel in the delrin in the switch and inserted a little bit of no-resistance wire. Makes a big difference. I don't have to search around for the "right" area to hit the button to get a solid connection.
The Fat Daddy Vape's button works too... I have that sitting around now that I got my 19B and it didn't have a magnetic button, both are actually identical
If it's the same as the one that vaportekusa has, yeah it's got a brass pin and no magnet or glue, but if you use a grommet from a drip tip to shorten the throw like I did, there's a sorta minor (or major, depending on how much it bothers you) problem where a full connection isn't always made when you press the firing button. It'll fire, but it'll fire weak. Unless you press REALLY hard, or in juuuust the right spot.
Adding that no-resistance wire to the delrin makes that problem go away. That's all I was talkin' 'bout. No big deal. It was talked about waaaay early in this thread. I was just skeered to go after my mod with a pointy object.
Adding that no-resistance wire to the delrin makes that problem go away. That's all I was talkin' 'bout. No big deal. It was talked about waaaay early in this thread. I was just skeered to go after my mod with a pointy object.
Oh gotcha. Yeah I didn't go with the shortening of the throw, I find it perfect for me coming from a K101 with a similar distance of throw but more resistance in the spring in button.
Any of you guys know why a Kanger 1.8 ohm wouldn't screw down all the way and have a draw and replacing it with a 2.5 ohm kanger coil head would make it function perfect?
Chinese quality control. I've had heads out of the same blister-pack that were perfect & last forever, and another one that was total trash within a day or two.....& some went right in the trash after less than one tank of juice because I couldn't get rid of the burnt rubber, or metallic tastes, even after a thorough cleaning.
I now just rebuild my own heads with Ekowool & Kanthal wire- they come out great every time, as long as I do my job right.
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I've just started doing this too. I'm not so great at it. Could be because I'm using 2mm ekowool and that is a fairly tight fit. Not REALLY tight, it fits, but only just. I keep having to do primer pulls. I'm using 30 or 32 gauge kanthal. Got any tips?
I'm building ProTank2 heads, btw, if that makes any difference.
I'm building ProTank2 heads, btw, if that makes any difference.
Ekowool is sized differently than most silica. The 2mm is actually closer to 3mm+ and might be a little tight in a Kanger head, and may be blocking your juice flow. The fact that is swells quite a bit when wet may also be exacerbating your situation. BTW - The replacement heads are all the same now for the EVOD, Protank, and Protank II, so the same techniques apply to all.
I use the 1.5 mm Ekowool (NO flavor wick) & I use a pin to keep it stiff while I wrap the coil and allow a little space between the wick & coils (then slide the pin out). The wick will swell to fill the space in a few seconds when you add juice....that works about perfect for me. Delivers the juice well without gurgling or dry-hits (using 80-100% VG).
I thought I read earlier that you use the hollow Ekowool (it comes hollow, solid, or with a cotton inner thread). You might try using a larger diameter pin when you wrap your coils so that they are not as tight on the wick (maybe a paperclip instead of a pin?). If you wrap them too tight, you can also choke-off juice flow. There are many variables to consider when you wrap your own coils, but once you experiment with a few, you will find a technique that works for you.....
One more thing - if you are running thick juices (over 80% VG) - try diluting them about 5-10% with Distilled water....that usually helps with wicking, and won't effect flavor at all.
Good luck.
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Thanks HEAPS for the tips. I've got both hollow and regular ekowool, never had the kind with the inner thread that can be pulled.
I'm looking again at the baggie my regular ekowool came in, and it's actually 1.5mm. I usually shoot for about 1.5Ohm. That's about 4 wraps, and I get them (seemingly?) fairly tight but not choking the wick. Sometimes I think my problems are due to a design issue with the larger BBC-types. If I fill the tank only about 1/2 full, no dry hits. And almost all my liquids are 70/30 PG/VG. Next time I build one I'll post some photos for you to critique.
I'm looking again at the baggie my regular ekowool came in, and it's actually 1.5mm. I usually shoot for about 1.5Ohm. That's about 4 wraps, and I get them (seemingly?) fairly tight but not choking the wick. Sometimes I think my problems are due to a design issue with the larger BBC-types. If I fill the tank only about 1/2 full, no dry hits. And almost all my liquids are 70/30 PG/VG. Next time I build one I'll post some photos for you to critique.
HELP! removed and lost the top spring near the connector because it showed much less v drop this way with an 18650. I noted that the 350s no longer fit, but was pleased to find that a safety fuse below the battery made for a perfect fit. unfortunately, I neglected to remove the fuse while trying to work out a hot spot and blew the fuse. I only have one 18650 and three 350s, which I really need. what can I use as a spacer to remedy the problem? I need something sized correctly and conductive!
What atty are you using? If you are using an RSST you can unscrew the positive post till it fits the 18350 and then screw down the pos post on the RSST to make it work.
I done pretty much the same thing. I removed the center brass, then ran an 8/32 tap thru the delrin. Then put your atty on the cap, put the screw into the delrin until it makes contact with the atty center post. Put your mod together, see how much shorter the screw needs to be to make everything close flush. Trim screw, repeat. I cut my cap to make mine have a hybrid look, but it should give you an idea.
or find a replacement for the top pin that's longer. I haven't tried it, but I've read an M4x20mm is a good start. Cut it down so that the button fully pressed pushes the battery into the top pin. If it's too long, you'll likely have firing issues.
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