Is the Breeze 2 the same as the Breeze NXT?
The entire process of replacing buttons/and or screens only takes a couple of mins and is quite easy to do. If still unclear u-tube has videos on how to. I will try to find the one I watched on how to do it.
Nope. Not the same as the Breeze AIO either. Not exactly sure what parts are interchangeable but it looks like the AIO takes the same coils as the Breeze and Breeze 2. NXT appears to have different coils.
I always interpret it as unsure. It could go either way as to a perceived outcome of topic you are discussing.
Here you go. It is for the Aegis Legend but its the same process for the Aegis Solo 100 W.The entire process of replacing buttons/and or screens only takes a couple of mins and is quite easy to do. If still unclear u-tube has videos on how to. I will try to find the one I watched on how to do it.
Starts about 1 min in.
This one takes it all the way to the mother board but that part is not necessary for just replacing the buttons/ screen.
Sourcemore has the Vapefly mini tool kit Pre-order for $6.64. They also have the renova zero pod 2 packs at 3.61 [emoji3]
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To clarify, the only reason why I'm posting this is because safety matters to everyone who reads the thread, not just to you and to other people who also don't run higher than some number that, after they finally find out the true CDR, might or might not turn out to be below the CDR, and the VTC4 isn't a 30 amp battery.
Sony VTC4 2000mAh 18650 Retest Results...a great 23A 2100mAh battery
Bench Test Results: Murata VTC4 18650...same as Sony VTC4, 23A 2100mAh
I could be wrong, but if discharging the VTC4 at 15 amps or greater, I believe that Sony specifies there must be a cut-off at 80°C, measured at the surface of the cell (never discharge the VTC4 above 80°C). In fact this would mean the true CDR would be closer to only about 21.5 amps, going by the temperature measurements taken from Mooch's test results.
On a side note, I forgot there actually is one Sony/Murata battery with a (tentative) 30 amp rating, it's the 21700 version of the VTC6A.
Bench Test Results: Sony VTC6A 21700...a great 30A battery, equal to Samsung 40T
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You dont need Optimistic for that...why not just use the Agree and Disagree icons when you agree or disagree?
You dont need Optimistic for that...why not just use the Agree and Disagree icons when you agree or disagree?
You misunderstood. I mean to say that the icons in general are worthless, except to help reduce replies to just agree or disagree with a post.
That's good and important info. Me, personally, I rarely reach 3 amps when vaping. I'll use a Trustfire batt if I never get in a pinch lol. Surely a "20A" Trustfire is good for <3 Amp vaping on a regulated mod, no?
Too bad there is no "realistic" icon... else I would've clicked on it for you for sure.I also suspect that a few people probably like to hit that icon simply because they just like rainbows.
Are you using freebase or salt nic juice in the pods?
That's what the old fashioned 'thumbs up' and 'thumbs down' were for. This system of nine available responses may or may not be an improvement, IF (all Caps) it weren't for the ambiguities.
I think there are about five too many options. Agree, Disagree, Funny and Informative should cover all bases.
Yeah, it's just a forum and it doesn't matter too much. It is interesting to contrast the different forums I participate in, or have participated in, over the decades.
Anyone remember the Great AOL Outage? The dang site crashed and was unavailable for something like 12-hours. Millions of AOL addicts had to be coaxed from ledges and carried away in straight jackets. It was a national calamity.
Even if we can assume the cell under the Trustfire wrap is 5.2 amps or more, you'd still want to check the type of chemistry the cell uses. That is, the volatility of it, and, if it's a China manufactured cell, then you'd still also want to be sure it's not from one of those specific Chinese manufacturers whose manufacturing process, safety-wise, isn't at least some way similar to Sony/Murata, Samsung, LG, Panasonic/Sanyo, and E-One Moli Energy (Molicel). (Some are, some aren't, according to Mooch.) I should also add that I have witnessed with my own eyes a Smok GX350 that, by the user of the mod, had been set to 75 watts, and that jumped to max power (that is, 350 watts) whilst at the same time it just kept displaying 75 watts as if everything was normal. If that happens just before the button gets pressed by accident inside your backpack multiple times in a row or if it happens just before the puff cut-off timer fails so that it starts to auto-fire on you as a result, you and others near you might be in for a catastrophic surprise.
Theres a whole generation that doesnt have a clue what AOL is. Personally I hated it. I signed up for Prodigy instead and had my ASU university account. Life was good on a 14.4 baud modem.
Don'tcha miss the sound of the modem dialup? I didn't get online until 1995, AOL was big and I was deep into it for several years. Before that, I experimented with local BBS systems, but was underwhelmed with their utility. As early as 1984 I knew people who were fiddling with networking their Commodore computers. At the time, I didn't catch the fever.
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