Here is an example of a tank cooking the juice in the tank next to the same juice bottle.
Here is an example of a tank cooking the juice in the tank next to the same juice bottle.
Never experienced this "juice cooking" that I've heard about so much. But then I only vape at 15-20W (rarely as high as 25W) with no more than 3 second drags, and my juices aren't really super sweet. My juice looks and tastes the same from full to empty tank.
My ADV is less than 3% flavoring and no sweeteners. LOL
I have had more trouble with tanks discoloring eliquid. Usually because of a flavor oxidizing the wire of the coil and turning the liquid black (Hello raspberry flavoring I love but no longer use).
I clean the coil and rewick once a week. Change the coil only when it won't clean up anymore or breaks. Longest record is 2 years on a coil.
Most of my gear is older (VERY old in the case of the REOs) so it is tough for me to recommend. I am trying to talk myself out of ordering this Vandy Vape PULSE V2 95W Squonk Box Mod
I have multiple of the vs 1s and just love them. I run 20700 batteries in mine so I get really long battery life. The vs 2 allows for 21700 so it should be as good or better on battery life. The same shop has replacement bottles for the v2 so another + there.
They have a whole section on that site for squonk rebuildables including BFRDAS and BFTRDAS
EDIT: I have had to replace the bottle on my ancient REOs (They are old and have the old style harder bottles) and many times on the Kanger Squonkbox (I REALLY DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS ONE ITS A NIGHTMARE)
I chain vape pretty much UncleJunkle and the bad ones shows up very quickly. Some attys are very good about not harming the juice and some aren't.
Me too. I need to do something about that. I'd rather increase my nic and cut my consumption in half than vape the way I do. Kinda ridiculous.
I didn’t like the ares 2. I tried a bunch of different coils and even bought two different rolls of superfine Clapton wire to try in it. I was never happy with the flavor production on it.
I just got it earlier this evening and I've played with it a bit. It's going to take a while to figure out how useful it's going to be. Here's what I got so far.
The "instructions" were a few cryptic notes on a small folding card and no help at all. It took a moment to figure out how to use it. There are 4 functions. Charge, Max Amp, Capacity, Internal Resistance.
I tried the charge function. With a one month old freshly charged HG2 at 2A (its only charging rate) it went up to 4.23V. Seems to give a good voltage reading because it showed as 4.23 on my Xtar.
Then I went into the Capacity function. It asks for a cutoff voltage which I set to 3.6V because that's around where I normally take batteries out for recharging. I don't know what cutoff the manufacturers use for their advertised capacity. It also asks for amp draw. I set that to 3A because that's what my trusty Solo says I'm using. Does that mean the capacity depends on the amp draw you run at?
Starting at 4.23V the voltage flew down to 4V in a few seconds with less than 10mah of capacity showing. I would have expected it to drop faster at the start but not that fast. Makes me think getting a charger that stopped at 4.0V might be a good idea. It hung around 3.8 / 3.7 for a long time which I would expect.
It stopped at 3.75V showing a capacity of 1336 (3000mah battery). It did go down to 3.6V but when the run stopped it popped up to 3.75V so I guess there's some kind of rebound going on. The battery got barely warm but the body of the tester was much warmer. Some buzzing and vibration while it ran.
Recharged the battery and ran Capacity again with the same settings. It showed capacity of 1321. That's not bad in terms of consistency. Maybe it would have been closer to the first number if I had let the battery rest a bit longer after I charged it. I'll need to do a bunch of runs to get a clear picture.
Then I tried it with another month old HG2. Ran Capacity with a cutoff of 3.2V. It showed a capacity of 2434. The battery level display still showed one bar so I guess I could have run it a bit lower and seen a bit more capacity.
Guess I'll go on playing with it. Try older HG2's and some other batteries. If the numbers are consistent for the same battery and go down with older batteries, at least that will give me a clue about how much the batteries are losing over time. I have a 5 year old AW sitting around, interesting to see how much capacity that one shows.
Drawing a steady continuous 3A all the way down is a lot different from what happens to a battery in normal use, like a few seconds of draw at a time over a couple of days. Don't know how much that would affect the measurable capacity.
Haven't got into Max Amp or Internal Resistance functions. It's going to take a while to get an idea of how valuable it's going to be and how I'm going to be able to use the results. So far I think it's a nice bit of kit. Maybe after I've played with it a bit more I'll post in the battery section.
That's probably worth the price of admission alone. Thanks for the first impressions.
I saw how it would appeal to the mech users.
Cheers. I googled for something to explain how to use it but didn't find anything. I prefer written words to video but I'll definitely check this out tomorrow.
Rebuildables, especially RTAs, seem to be one of those things where 50% hate 'em and 50% like 'em. Very few seem to fall in the category of 80+% love 'em.
I have no problems wit the Ares 2 but I admittedly haven't used it a whole heck of a lot. But right off the bat I had no complaints with it or with the flavor. The main reason I don't use the Ares 2 as much as other tanks is because I'm mostly an RDL vaper and for me it's too tight for RDL. But I'll get back to it when I get into an MTL mood.
But I'm also not a flavor chaser. I like flavor, but all in all I'm a rather boring vaper. Too much flavor is a turn off for me. I vape because I'm addicted to the act of smoking.
Although I'm open to a few more sweet deals, I think we're set. Just PG, VG, batteries and eventually more flavoring will be needed down the road. Our stockpile expanded quite a bit since 2016 in both depth and breadth.
There are a number of options and styles of vaping we can move among if interested in the future, all pretty inexpensive and nice to have. Although we mostly use the same tanks and liquid as in 2016, we may become bored one day and want choices!
Actually it's me that wants variety. My wife would be happy with the setups and liquid she's using forever, so I just ordered six more Minifits.
There are a number of options and styles of vaping we can move among if interested in the future, all pretty inexpensive and nice to have. Although we mostly use the same tanks and liquid as in 2016, we may become bored one day and want choices!
Actually it's me that wants variety. My wife would be happy with the setups and liquid she's using forever, so I just ordered six more Minifits.
yeah that's not right....i'd venture it's more that there was still another juice on your coil (a darker juice) when you refilled your tank with the lighter colored juice.....then again it could be that the juice in the tank is in the light more than the juice in the bottle, or the juice in the tank is more oxidized than the juice in the bottle hence it's color change.
then again I haven't used tanks for years nor do I vape above 25w
Could also just be gunk on the coil. I have had old coils with a lot of gunk on them discolor new juice that I put in the tank after a few fires.
I used to think that was a feature of the tank to let you know when it was time to change the coil. (j/k
)Nope you can dump out the juice, clean the tank and replace the coil and the exact same thing happens. And you can also feel the glass heating up while you are vaping. I've experienced this since 2014 and I know it well. It is usually tanks with smaller chambers. And the lower the level of juice, the worse it gets.
Tanks like the Cerberus uses larger chambers and uses a lot of cotton between the coils and the chamber. These chambers usually doesn't get anywhere as hot as say Atlantis or Kanger OCC. Although they too can get hot if there isn't a lot of juice in the tank to act as a coolant.
Tanks like the Zeus it never happens. As they have top airflow and have a chamber over the chamber. The gap in between is used to provide airflow. So the juice in the tank never comes in contact with the hot chamber. And the juice always taste fresh like a RDA.
Could also just be gunk on the coil. I have had old coils with a lot of gunk on them discolor new juice that I put in the tank after a few fires.
I used to think that was a feature of the tank to let you know when it was time to change the coil. (j/k
I've seen that happen with tanks like the Kanger OCC. You can put fresh juice in and watch a dark stream leaving the wick holes and mixing in with the juice in the tank. Other tanks like Atlantis, Triton, and Cerberus, I've never seen that happen. The juice only gets darker if the tank gets hot. And the cotton viewed through the juice holes always stays clean.
Actually, I only experienced this with rebuildable tanks. I have experienced that with the Kanger Subtank, but only with the RBA.
Yes I've seen it too with the Subtank RBA. Now while I have only been using the Abyss Ether RBA for two weeks, this one I've never seen the juice in the tank darken. Even when the juice level is very low. I'm not sure how to explain this one. Except the chamber is large and thicker than most. It also has thermal contact with that top plate which probably acts as a huge heatsink.
Wasn't someone looking for Nautilus coils? Can't beat 2.54 for a 5 pack with free shipping (thanks @AvaOrchid for info on this sale)
AVAIL | Online Vape Store - E-Liquid & Vape Mods
AVAIL | Online Vape Store - E-Liquid & Vape Mods
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