I made the wicks a tad longer to where they touched the bottom of the slots. I also inverted the tank after filling as several here recommended.
Cthulhu RTA Discusion
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I made the wicks a tad longer to where they touched the bottom of the slots. I also inverted the tank after filling as several here recommended.
I have been trying to choose between the Goblin and the Cthulhu and was hoping for a little help.
From what I understand from this thread, and the videos I have watched:
The Goblin has no effective top fill, and tends to leak from the bottom fill screw due to no o-ring. The Cthulhu can sometimes leak after a top fill, but this can be avoided using correct filling technique. The Cthulhu has better machine quality and larger juice channels. The airflow is the same on both tanks, but the Cthulhu is quieter.
It's looking to me that the Cthulhu is the better choice.
From what I understand from this thread, and the videos I have watched:
The Goblin has no effective top fill, and tends to leak from the bottom fill screw due to no o-ring. The Cthulhu can sometimes leak after a top fill, but this can be avoided using correct filling technique. The Cthulhu has better machine quality and larger juice channels. The airflow is the same on both tanks, but the Cthulhu is quieter.
It's looking to me that the Cthulhu is the better choice.
The book and the tankI went to our local Barnes & Noble today to buy a book for beach days. I just couldn't resist:
View attachment 467566
Sorry if it's a little OT.
Yeah I had a collection of Lovecraft short stories and I loved them. I wanted to read his Cthulhu stories for a long time. Actually the name Cthulhu caught my interest for that atty.The book and the tank
It is without doubt.
I have both. The Goblin v2 and the Cthulhu. Both produce great flavor and vapor. The Cthulhu has a bit more airflow (imo). It's marginal but it's noticable. The missing topfill option on the Goblin wouldn't be an issue for me IF the bottom fill wouldn't suck big time, too.
IMO it's a real PITA to refill the Goblin v2.
The hole is big enough but it is positioned between chimney and glass and the space is so limited. I can't fit a 14g needle in there, if I use a dripper bottle it leaks like hell. If I use a needle bottle it takes time.
The Cthulhu is the better Goblin.
@sonicbomb Once you have the wick job correct, top filling flip and screw down, There is no leakage. For an RTA this thing rocks like a dripper. Dont get me wrong. It doesnt really compare to a massive 22gauge build with tornado airflow with 150+ watts going to it. But for a tank?? Trust me it pumps out some cloudage.
Love this tank so far. Still trying to get the wick right, I don't get any leaking but I just get some gurgling on and off, seems to do it more when I try to pull harder. No terrible dry hits though. I think next time I re-wick I won't trim as much off and try to put more/longer bits into the juice channels.
I know alot depends on the coil, the device this RTA sits on, airflow and personal preferences, but what flavors has everyone found that really shine in this compared to other tanks and drippers?
I finally found my issue with the Cthulhu. The machining of the air flow holes were messed up. On one side the hole actually went all the way through to the copper center pin. It would allow air to seep in and cause all kinds of issues, but not consistently. If you are having problems with this tank, I would suggest looking down into the side air flow holes to make sure you only see silver metal at the back of the hole. If it is copper, you have the same issue I did.
My fix: since I was way past warranty, I stuffed a small piece of cotton down in the air hole. I packed it tight to the back, making sure I was not blocking the updraft part of the air flow chamber. I then allowed a tiny drop of super glue to go down the hole and soak the cotton. I then let it dry and reassembled the Cthulhu as usual. Lo and behold it no longer leaks from anywhere. The draw is now more consistent and I have not had to rebuild it in several days. I was only getting a day or two out of a build for some reason. Don't know if that is related, but I changed nothing else and it's ok after several days now.
I am expecting a Billow V2 in the mail today as I had about given up on the Cthulhu. The Billow thread guys seem to be just as avid about that tank as we have been about this one. I guess I'll need to decide which will be my sub-ohm back up now!
My fix: since I was way past warranty, I stuffed a small piece of cotton down in the air hole. I packed it tight to the back, making sure I was not blocking the updraft part of the air flow chamber. I then allowed a tiny drop of super glue to go down the hole and soak the cotton. I then let it dry and reassembled the Cthulhu as usual. Lo and behold it no longer leaks from anywhere. The draw is now more consistent and I have not had to rebuild it in several days. I was only getting a day or two out of a build for some reason. Don't know if that is related, but I changed nothing else and it's ok after several days now.
I am expecting a Billow V2 in the mail today as I had about given up on the Cthulhu. The Billow thread guys seem to be just as avid about that tank as we have been about this one. I guess I'll need to decide which will be my sub-ohm back up now!
Try contacting the manuf. They have been pretty legit with replacements due to machining quality issues.
I would, but now I have "modified" it. Not sure now they would honor the issue I had with it. If it was a high dollar item I would have been more upset about it. If they come out with a Cthulhu V2.....I would be one of the first to order it, but with the multitude of machining issues on this tank, I don't know if I even want another one. Great tank, but needs some more refining to be ultimate.
dont mention any modifications when you contact them just to see what they say. I agree the machining is not top notch.
I got my hex tool in the mail and FINALLY got this thing going. I threw in a .5 dual 26 gauge build with Japanese cotton. Loaded up some CTC Cereal from Blue dot and cranked her up to 38 watts....MAN OH MAN THIS WAS WORTH THE WAIT! What a great device. I do need to pick up a delrin tip for it though, gets a little warm.
Thanks for all the help guys!
Thanks for all the help guys!
Attachments
Tip does get warm. i have a 2puffs insulator between the top and the tip and it still gets warm. So i am in the market for a wide bore delrin as well.
I might hit some B&Ms today if I have time. I'll grab an extra for you if they have any.
The Cthulhu is the first tank that makes me enjoy fruity flavors if that's what you're asking.
that would be awesome.
I just ordered the 5 pack off of fast tech that was a few pages back. I spring for the registered airmail, so they should be here within a few weeks hopefully.
If you want to shoot me your shipping info, I'll toss two in the mail for you when they arrive
Quick recap. Probably nothing you all haven't read.
1) You definitely need to clean it well. I left mine soaked in soap water for half hour. But it still tasted like metal burn diesel. After a few tanks of puff and reject followed by complete cleanse, it seems to be "broken" in. I think some amount of machine oil was still stuck in the screw channel and crevices.
2) The juice wells MUST be filled with cotton or you'll get leakage from top fill. I even taped the entire AFC ring but it still leaked like a cheerleader virgin after top fill. If you still see gaps or open space in the wells, stuff a bit of loose cotton in there.
3) If it leaks, it'll definitely run the entire AFC ring as the rubber seal is above the air intake holes. This will cause juice to run all over the top of your mod, not just out the air holes.
4) If you want to pack more juice with top fill, take out top cap B, fill the tank. Then continue to top off until juice almost reaches top of chimney pipe. (When bottom fill, juice fills all the way above the top cap A, this is why it holds more)
5) The allen wrench is cheap soft metal. Buy a replacement if you can. (.9mm size) Mine rounded the edge off and temporary fix was to dremel or cut off the bad tip. You'll have a "fresh" allen wrench again. If your screw is stripped, one method to get out is to put a dab of glue or epoxy on the allen, then insert in the screw. Wait til it dries off and unscrew.
6) Last, make sure your retainer square screw nut is flat-side down. I inverted this thing thinking the bevel side was to fit the top cap center hole. This will leave a 1mm gap between top cap A and B and you'll see the rubber seal.
See schematic below if you're unfamiliar with your parts.
http://i.imgur.com/b8dNt7m.jpg
Cheers
1) You definitely need to clean it well. I left mine soaked in soap water for half hour. But it still tasted like metal burn diesel. After a few tanks of puff and reject followed by complete cleanse, it seems to be "broken" in. I think some amount of machine oil was still stuck in the screw channel and crevices.
2) The juice wells MUST be filled with cotton or you'll get leakage from top fill. I even taped the entire AFC ring but it still leaked like a cheerleader virgin after top fill. If you still see gaps or open space in the wells, stuff a bit of loose cotton in there.
3) If it leaks, it'll definitely run the entire AFC ring as the rubber seal is above the air intake holes. This will cause juice to run all over the top of your mod, not just out the air holes.
4) If you want to pack more juice with top fill, take out top cap B, fill the tank. Then continue to top off until juice almost reaches top of chimney pipe. (When bottom fill, juice fills all the way above the top cap A, this is why it holds more)
5) The allen wrench is cheap soft metal. Buy a replacement if you can. (.9mm size) Mine rounded the edge off and temporary fix was to dremel or cut off the bad tip. You'll have a "fresh" allen wrench again. If your screw is stripped, one method to get out is to put a dab of glue or epoxy on the allen, then insert in the screw. Wait til it dries off and unscrew.
6) Last, make sure your retainer square screw nut is flat-side down. I inverted this thing thinking the bevel side was to fit the top cap center hole. This will leave a 1mm gap between top cap A and B and you'll see the rubber seal.
See schematic below if you're unfamiliar with your parts.
http://i.imgur.com/b8dNt7m.jpg
Cheers
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